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RI Chevy

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You hack it up Mike?

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MustangMike

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I know I will take my lumps for disagreeing with two guys who are each more knowledgeable than myself, but I will respectfully disagree just the same, for the following reasons:

- An 044/440 can generally be made to run very strong with mods that do no include porting.

- Often Hybids run well, but lack the torque of the ported 046/460s.

- If I'm going to go through the trouble of making a hybrid, I want it to run with the good running ported 046/460s.

- To do so will generally require porting, proper port timing, and the right carb for the saw.

A well done Hybrid is a wonderful combination of reduced weight and great power. Many of them fall a bit short on the power side.

I guess it depends on what you are looking to do. If you just want a fast short bar saw, it is not that hard to attain. But if you want a light saw that has the torque to pull a 28" bar in hardwood, the goal is a bit harder to achieve.

That is my 2 cents.
 

Adirondackstihl

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I know I will take my lumps for disagreeing with two guys who are each more knowledgeable than myself, but I will respectfully disagree just the same, for the following reasons:

- An 044/440 can generally be made to run very strong with mods that do no include porting.

- Often Hybids run well, but lack the torque of the ported 046/460s.

- If I'm going to go through the trouble of making a hybrid, I want it to run with the good running ported 046/460s.

- To do so will generally require porting, proper port timing, and the right carb for the saw.

A well done Hybrid is a wonderful combination of reduced weight and great power. Many of them fall a bit short on the power side.

I guess it depends on what you are looking to do. If you just want a fast short bar saw, it is not that hard to attain. But if you want a light saw that has the torque to pull a 28" bar in hardwood, the goal is a bit harder to achieve.

That is my 2 cents.
You've fallen into a trap Mike and I'm just here shaking my head
 

dall

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I won't usually run anything longer than a 25 on my hybrid and most of the time it has a 20 on it same as my ported 044 to me they are play saws
The oilers suck on them usually and don't oil a longer bar to my liking
 

RI Chevy

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Try a 28" bar on it and live life on the wild side. Lol. [emoji23]

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junkman

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I won't usually run anything longer than a 25 on my hybrid and most of the time it has a 20 on it same as my ported 044 to me they are play saws
The oilers suck on them usually and don't oil a longer bar to my liking
I run a 32 with .404 and it oils fine on my hybrids .No mods to the oiler all stock .
 

MustangMike

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I won't usually run anything longer than a 25 on my hybrid and most of the time it has a 20 on it same as my ported 044 to me they are play saws
The oilers suck on them usually and don't oil a longer bar to my liking

I run .063 28", and I think that helps the oiler flow a bit more to the bar. I don't generally plunge cut, and I have not had any problems. I really like it as a light weight felling saw. On uneven ground with unhealthy trees I will often raise where i make the hinge, and that is when I appreciate the reduced weight.
 

MattG

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I know I will take my lumps for disagreeing with two guys who are each more knowledgeable than myself, but I will respectfully disagree just the same, for the following reasons:

- An 044/440 can generally be made to run very strong with mods that do no include porting.

- Often Hybids run well, but lack the torque of the ported 046/460s.

- If I'm going to go through the trouble of making a hybrid, I want it to run with the good running ported 046/460s.

- To do so will generally require porting, proper port timing, and the right carb for the saw.

A well done Hybrid is a wonderful combination of reduced weight and great power. Many of them fall a bit short on the power side.

I guess it depends on what you are looking to do. If you just want a fast short bar saw, it is not that hard to attain. But if you want a light saw that has the torque to pull a 28" bar in hardwood, the goal is a bit harder to achieve.

That is my 2 cents.
Well, I have even less knowledge, than a whole bunch of you all! But I reckon I'm learning and certainly want to learn more.

I completely hear what you are saying, Mike. Initially I'll stick the stock 460 jug on it with the 0.3mm BG, and the S20 carb it came with. I'll see how it runs like that, then I probably pull off the jug and look at what the squish is like, and then I'll probably return to that conversation you started a while back about carbs.

I guess at that point, I'll probably have got my ar$e in gear and figured out how a degree wheel works, and then I'll revisit the idea of porting it and start pestering you lot on that subject some more!
 

MustangMike

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I actually put a degree wheel on a saw for the first time a few weeks ago. Printed a degree wheel from the internet, taped it to some Oak Tag cut from a folder, and cut an X through the middle (instead of trying to drill a hole dead center) so it would center itself on the PTO side of the crank. My degree wheel stays still (instead of a rotating one), and I made a rotating wire pointer that I taped in place. It worked out well, and $0 cost.

Sorry the pic is a bit fuzzy.
 

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Ron660

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I run .063 28", and I think that helps the oiler flow a bit more to the bar. I don't generally plunge cut, and I have not had any problems. I really like it as a light weight felling saw. On uneven ground with unhealthy trees I will often raise where i make the hinge, and that is when I appreciate the reduced weight.
Mike, when I get my 440/460 hybrid in I'll put a Cannon 28" 404/063 on it (with a 7-pin) and let you know how well it pulls. A Cannon 20" 3/8 063, and an 8-pin, will be on it most of the time.
 

MattG

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I actually put a degree wheel on a saw for the first time a few weeks ago. Printed a degree wheel from the internet, taped it to some Oak Tag cut from a folder, and cut an X through the middle (instead of trying to drill a hole dead center) so it would center itself on the PTO side of the crank. My degree wheel stays still (instead of a rotating one), and I made a rotating wire pointer that I taped in place. It worked out well, and $0 cost.

Sorry the pic is a bit fuzzy.
Ha ha!

But I should not laugh too hard - I've not made mine yet!

When I eventually do, I'm planning on using a 1/2 chuck #23 to hold in place a kid's drawing protractor #27 . Well that's the plan at least.....:)....
 

MustangMike

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Actually, I really liked how it worked, I would prefer the wheel to be stationary and the pointer rotate.

Simple, but effective.
 
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