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Simondo

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I'm curious what you guys will say. Dificult as it may be, let's pretend for a moment CAD doesn't exist and you have to narrow it down to 1 saw; What would you keep for your 1 saw plan and why? Commercial production? Firewood? Giggle factor? Stock or modded doesn't matter. Pick your poison.

Gun to my head; I would keep my ported 357XP and send my other 2 (346 and 372) down the road. I'm a firewood guy and even when I get into wood over 20" my 357 just doesn't fail to impress me. And as a bonus, it's weight doesn't cause any fatigue whatsoever.

What say you? Share a video or pic of your favorite if you have it.
I see a situation here that a lot of my customers have....1 saw and they cut firewood that is 15 inch or under. I suspect the 1 saw situation is much harder to apply to tree surgeons as the very nature of top work and the felling are so different in cut size. Il keep my thoughts aimed at the firewood needs for the private individual.
Iv commented on how i feel the "size and sort of wood" each of us cut can influence the saw choice before and i feel this is even more important if you go the "1 saw" rout. The 15 inch timber size is average for me due to.... if its bigger.. then the timber is not" usually "firewood and is headed for milling. The top of a mature tree is where I'm looking at firewood ,so 15 in is a fair guide as to the major limb size.
In the up to average 15 inch hardwood and soft wood cutting ,i would go for a 50cc class saw as it will cope on a 18" bar for occasional use on the odd time I "may" tackle bigger timber and be right in the zone on a 15 inch bar for cross cutting . I feel the limbs/top of tree is all about how light a saw is as you spend a lot of the time processing a tree top with the saw in your hands taking the majority of the weight where as when you get into the trunk its supporting some of the saws weight for you. I make use of the smaller timber right down to about 2 " as there is less splitting required so there "can be" a lot of that to cross cut (depending if you have a saw bench) and i personally don't want a bigger saw for that. This is how i see the situation from a fairly common standpoint with the firewood cutting in my corner of the world.
Il have a 346 xp ne for now or a 550xp in a year or two to see how the latest ones run ...But...iv got a Dolmar 5105 cx (non easy start ,slim line) on the way to test so that might be the one i go with...time will tell.
 
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XP_Slinger

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I see a situation here that a lot of my customers have....1 saw and they cut firewood that is 15 inch or under. I suspect the 1 saw situation is much harder to apply to tree surgeons as the very nature of top work and the felling are so different in cut size. Il keep my thoughts aimed at the firewood needs for the private individual.
Iv commented on how i feel the "size and sort of wood" each of us cut can influence the saw choice before and i feel this is even more important if you go the "1 saw" rout. The 15 inch timber size is average for me due to.... if its bigger.. then the timber is not" usually "firewood and is headed for milling. The top of a mature tree is where I'm looking at firewood ,so 15 in is a fair guide as to the major limb size.
In the up to average 15 inch hardwood and soft wood cutting ,i would go for a 50cc class saw as it will cope on a 18" bar for occasional use on the odd time I "may" tackle bigger timber and be right in the zone on a 15 inch bar for cross cutting . I feel the limbs/top of tree is all about how light a saw is as you spend a lot of the time processing a tree top with the saw in your hands taking the majority of the weight whereas when you get into the trunk its supporting some of the saws weight for you. I make use of the smaller timber right down to about 2 " as there is less splitting required so there "can be" a lot of that to cross cut (depending if you have a saw bench) and i personally don't want a bigger saw for that. This is how i see the situation from a fairly common standpoint with the firewood cutting in my corner of the world.
Il have a 346 xp ne for now or a 550xp in a year or two to see how the latest ones run ...But...iv got a Dolmar 5105 cx (non easy start ,slim line) on the way to test so that might be the one i go with...time will tell.

Folks just getting it their first and possibly only saw is why I asked the question. I'm sure there are lots of people that thumb through threads looking for their answer to the 1 saw question.
 

Simondo

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Folks just getting it their first and possibly only saw is why I asked the question. I'm sure there are lots of people that thumb through threads looking for their answer to the 1 saw question.
What i put will make sense to some but not if you live somewhere that conditions are vastly different i guess :)
 

MustangMike

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The correct answer will depend on what wood you normally encounter, and your own size.

For 18 years my 044 was my only saw, and is what I would choose as an only saw. It is light enough to limb with, and strong enough to buck with. Even though it is not ported, it is a particularly strong 044 and has some mods ... HD-2 filter, dp muffler, base gasket delete and timing advance.

In my area, over 95% of the trees I cut are hardwood, and usually not the softer stuff. Red & White Oak, Hard Maple, Ash & Hickory are all fairly common.

Here is is in 19" Red Oak with a 28" light bar, where it will let you know it is not a 60 cc saw:

 

XP_Slinger

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The correct answer will depend on what wood you normally encounter, and your own size.

For 18 years my 044 was my only saw, and is what I would choose as an only saw. It is light enough to limb with, and strong enough to buck with. Even though it is not ported, it is a particularly strong 044 and has some mods ... HD-2 filter, dp muffler, base gasket delete and timing advance.

In my area, over 95% of the trees I cut are hardwood, and usually not the softer stuff. Red & White Oak, Hard Maple, Ash & Hickory are all fairly common.

Here is is in 19" Red Oak with a 28" light bar, where it will let you know it is not a 60 cc saw:


Dang nice saw. Agree 100% that your plan has to fit the work and the person slinging the saw around.
 

skippy

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This is a hard decision .....
I have never ran a 357 .....
I grin every time I run my 346 ....ported and very light and nimble ...
I do the same with the 262 .... ported same a bit heavier ...
372 xpw can cut just about everything ...ported
I love my 385 and 288 ported ...
How about 1 in each class....
 

cus_deluxe

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Assuming I couldn't get the drop on 'em, and the gun were to my head, I'd still tell 'em to piss off, and get off my lawn. But to answer the hypothetical question, 272xp. It can do most everything, including light milling, parts availability is excellent and affordable. One saw, ha-ha, just crazy.
Yep, mine would be my 272 as well. Bone stock, early non decomp model. Relatively lightweight amd reliable as heck.
 

Ryan Browne

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I've only got a few hours under my belt on an 044, and I've never ran a Dolmar 7900, but I'd choose one of them. Ported, of course. I'd have to spend some time with each to know for sure.

And, like someone else said, lots of bars. An 044 with a 16" bar still isn't exactly an ideal limbing/thinning saw, but it'll do the job, whereas a 50cc, ported or not, isn't gonna handle a 28" bar. Not in my woods anyway.

I haven't run any of the new 60cc saws, but it'd be fun to try them all. A guy could save a little weight and a little money going 60cc instead of a bigger saw. The 60cc shootout thread is pretty fun. Would love to get my hands on a Dolmar 6100, or a 562, to see what the buzz is all about.
 
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