044 project

[MattG]

Well the last time I measured the exh roof after I'd bevelled it and smoothed the ports innards, I reckon I've got just somewhere between 100.5* - 101* on it. I hope I've not over done it! The inlet is 76* - 77*. But I do find the grinding a bit addictive and also it's difficult to get 100% accurate on measuring open/close angle, what with the piston crown/skirt and the ports having slight chamfers. (Yes like anything else in life, I do find it easy to obsess a little too much on this things).

 

[MattG]

Still kinda umming and ahhing about whether to grind or fill that goddamn lip. Come on fellas, what are the pros and cons?

TBH I'm not exactly sure whether the piston ever even closes the lower ones? Surely if it does not, then I lose case compression if I grind the lip...?

I mean the lip is not that pronounced on this jug, so perhaps I'll leave it alone.

 

[mdavlee]

Where's the piston at BDC? That will determine if it needs ground and where. The top of the windows has the most pressure on the charge coming out of the piston window

 

[drf256]

Your grind is beautiful, btw. This can’t be your first rodeo.

Damn impressive if you ask me.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Grind the lip out.

That's what I was thinking of saying but I'm no expert and thought best not to step in first.
I would think filling with epoxy would smooth the flow but at the same time it would be restricted

 

[MattG]

Your grind is beautiful, btw. This can’t be your first rodeo.

Damn impressive if you ask me.

Thanks mate!

I did an MX bike nearly 30 years back. Me and mate bought a tiny little leccy grinder, think it had a little 12/20 DC supply. Mine went like a demon, I used to slaughter my mates. Problem was I made the exhaust too wide, and it would self-destruct the rings every 400 miles.

I must admit that I used the old 044 original jug, to practice doing the exhaust inner bevel!

 

[MattG]

Where's the piston at BDC? That will determine if it needs ground and where. The top of the windows has the most pressure on the charge coming out of the piston window

Hi mate,

Well I don't really wish to grind the transfer as such. I have hit just the exh and the inl and have roughly these numbers: 101/122/76.

I'm more interested (kinda obsessively, I guess, I mean someday I've really got to put the damn thing together, and see if it actually runs!) in opinions about grinding/filling the casting lip that mahle leave on the lower lip of the lower transfer. I personally think the point is moot, since the lower area is much bigger than the upper one, so a good fill job (IMO) won't restrict flow. If you trying to lose case volume (I'm not) then I guess filling would be the thing to do.

Anyway your question got me curious, so I placed the slug and jug at BDC and tried to get some shots:

(By the Exhaust side is the top)




at a guess I'd say there's about 4mm of wall material between the side edge of the skirt and the final port edge (i.e. where the bevel meets the wall).

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I guess if you fill it and your not that happy with its performance and looking for a little job one day I guess you could tear it apart and grind the epoxy and all out.

 

[blsnelling]

Why would you consider filling it? Beveling that won't affect case volume enough to matter.

 

[MattG]

Why would you consider filling it? Beveling that won't affect case volume enough to matter.

I was just considering all the options really Brad. I think I'll go with the grind out, the lip aint that pronounced, TBH. Like you say I don't need to worry bout case volume, the 10mm w/p case is smaller than a regular ms440 one anyways....

 

[T.Roller]

I was just considering all the options really Brad. I think I'll go with the grind out, the lip aint that pronounced, TBH. Like you say I don't need to worry bout case volume, the 10mm w/p case is smaller than a regular ms440 one anyways....

JMO but if I had the choice between grind or epoxy I'd go grind first everytime.

 

[VinceGU05]

i ground it out on the last one i did so it was a nice transition without the lip, worked a treat.
very strong saw considering i didnt touch the port timing on the transfers. only widened inlet and exhaust.

 

[MattG]

Still working on it. It's starting to look like a chainsaw. Basically got the top end all happy now, polished/ground ports etc, and back on. Thought it was about time to get the handle back on too...



Spent a while a couple weeks back polishing the "white" of the handle using all the grades from p80-1200.

Other pleasures rebuilding the carb, spent ages getting into the POP test, and messing with the lever height.

Now trying to figure how the HD a/f kit is gonna work and what old bits I need to keep.

And before anyone asks, yes I've got a new WC clutch cover ready to replace that battered one.

 

[Adamski]

Boo to the west coast cover.. them things are fugly

 

[MattG]

Boo to the west coast cover.. them things are fugly

You're too traditional sometimes

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Boo to the west coast cover.. them things are fugly

I'm not a huge fan either.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Adamski]

I'm not a huge fan either.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

You're too traditional sometimes

They make an aesthetically nice saw look rough from the side. IMO..

It made my 038 mag look aweful (I know it is an AM one but they have the same shape)

 

[Wonkydonkey]

flaps and piss come to mind
but if that's what you like, then who am I to say how you dress your saw

 

[MustangMike]

I rate the looks of my saws by how they run after I pull the trigger.

 

[MattG]

I rate the looks of my saws by how they run after I pull the trigger.

Indeed. I just thought I'd go WC cover since I was changing out a lot of other stuff, and one of those covers looked like it would fit the bill. Let's just hope it starts when I finally get to that stage!