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Thank u! Not the one i remember seeing but the more the merriest. Just trying to grasp what the concept should look like. No timing numbers will be harmed in this experiment unless i Waynes World it. Which is a 99% possibilty. This is more of a learning how a burr bit reacts to a cylinder.
Just my firewood hack opinion here.. these inverted diamond cones work well for the bevels.
085330792bed013bfcd36a6768dec861.jpg
 

JohnnyBlade

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Just my firewood hack opinion here.. these inverted diamond cones work well for the bevels.
085330792bed013bfcd36a6768dec861.jpg
Makes perfect sense to me.
Yes. They've been real good but I don't do a ton of grinding.
Excellent ive already bookmarked the link. And im sure i wont either so they should last a lifetime.
 
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Now also notice how I went a little too far and got into the bottom transfer cover bolt bosses. Remember they are there! Now its not a HUGE deal to just touch them and expose a thread or 2, the cyl isn’t trashed. Good loctite will be fine. Obviously its preferred to not get into them, but its not going to destroy the cyl.

The work on this saw is pretty ugly. I was pissed about it being the wrong cyl when it was delivered and kind of went hog wild. This is going to be a keeper/loaner saw, so i’m not all that worried about less than optimal work. I have another p/c for it as I expect it to be screwed up at some point.
 

tickbitintn

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Thank u! Not the one i remember seeing but the more the merriest. Just trying to grasp what the concept should look like. No timing numbers will be harmed in this experiment unless i Waynes World it. Which is a 99% possibilty. This is more of a learning how a burr bit reacts to a cylinder.
I probably have a few jugs ( non- serviceable) laying around for you to practice on as should a few others around here.

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JohnnyBlade

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Ok, here are some pics. These are just roughed in, a lot more work to do.
View attachment 154086 View attachment 154087

Now, be mindful of the transfer cover lip!! Don’t be stupid like me and forget its there!!

View attachment 154088 View attachment 154089
Yes i see the lip. Its prob been done more than one time. Not just u. Lol. If ur looking at it from the bottom and wanna match the gasket it looks like a ton of meat to take out but if u measure that thickness it equals zero at the top. Ive looked at this cylinder many a nights deciding what to do and how to attack it. I keep beatin in to my head that exact scenario so i dont make that mistake. Any other areas that could cause concern that uve run in to?
 

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I probably have a few jugs ( non- serviceable) laying around for you to practice on as should a few others around here.

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I do have 1 possibly 2 junkers here as well that will be practiced on first. I do appreciate the offer and i may take u up on that if i feel im not at that level yet to grind a good one. Fine bunch of folks around here. By the time im ready i suppose ill have to get a skidsteer for all the shavings:D
 
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Yes i see the lip. Its prob been done more than one time. Not just u. Lol. If ur looking at it from the bottom and wanna match the gasket it looks like a ton of meat to take out but if u measure that thickness it equals zero at the top. Ive looked at this cylinder many a nights deciding what to do and how to attack it. I keep beatin in to my head that exact scenario so i dont make that mistake. Any other areas that could cause concern that uve run in to?

When you mill the base of the cyl, be aware of how close the outer diameter of the bottom of the intake is in relation to the cyl base.
 

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When you mill the base of the cyl, be aware of how close the outer diameter of the bottom of the intake is in relation to the cyl base.
If im reading this correctly.....r u suggesting this because if u take off the bottom of the jug u would have to lower the partion wall? I mocked it up real quick to try and visualize. On the 2159 there is a cavity the boot would drop in to so i dont forsee a problem there? Or r u talking about getting into the impulse tube area?image.jpg
Also i dont have a lathe, just a garbage can to put the old gasket in. Kind of a hillbilly lathe.
 
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If im reading this correctly.....r u suggesting this because if u take off the bottom of the jug u would have to lower the partion wall? I mocked it up real quick to try and visualize. On the 2159 there is a cavity the boot would drop in to so i dont forsee a problem there? Or r u talking about getting into the impulse tube area?View attachment 154126
Also i dont have a lathe, just a garbage can to put the old gasket in. Kind of a hillbilly lathe.


Negative.

If you machine the base, you can and/or will interfere with the sealing of intake boot.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
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I don’t have a lathe either. I made a “mill” for my dremel and use a end cut carbide to mill the base. I don’t have to worry about cutting the bottom of the intake too much as someone using a lathe does.
 

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Negative.

If you machine the base, you can and/or will interfere with the sealing of intake boot.
View attachment 154129
View attachment 154130
image.jpg Understand. I held a feeler gauge even with the base and it doesnt take much to make a flat spot on where the boot would seal up on the bottom. Good info considering i have bought a few saws including this one that wer killed by air leaks. Pic above is with no base gasket so im good on the up and down machining thankfully. U have the same pointer i do:D
 
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