What oil is best? and what ratio?

[Kiwioilboiler]

This is the saw that’s being run on the conditioner only. I know Steve has ran it this way, he’s had customers run it this way, Jeff ran two tanks through it, and I’ve ran a few tanks through it. I just went down and pulled the muffler cover off, just for world peace and stuff
This has been sitting for a few weeks now, without being ran at all, and this is how it looks. More pics to follow.

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Don't get me wrong, there are some super slippery additives out there. I don't know what it is that we add to diesel at work, or in what ratio (miniscule to very nearly non-existent) but we definitely add a lubricity improver to help replace what sulphur used to do for injection pumps before Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel (less than 10ppm) was mandated. It is not outside the realms of possibility that this is along these lines.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Don't get me wrong, there are some super slippery additives out there. I don't know what it is that we add to diesel at work, or in what ratio (miniscule to very nearly non-existent) but we definitely add a lubricity improver to help replace what sulphur used to do for injection pumps before Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel (less than 10ppm) was mandated. It is not outside the realms of possibility that this is along these lines.

Didn’t take it bad in any way. It’s all good. Just figured I’d post up the saw Jeff was talking about, and tagged you because you commented on it. There’s no doubt there is a lubricant added to the conditioner when it’s blended, but I have no idea what it is. Either way it’s a cool experiment to see how long it’ll last.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Just grabbed this at my Yamaha dealer. Is it the same as what you see in the US? There are regional differences sometimes is all.
If so, this could simplify my oil stash, this in my ope and KTM/Husky 250 2T dirtbike instead of XP or Havoline for ope and Motorex for the bike.

Just bumping this up, can anyone confirm my NZ 2R is the same packaging as you Statesiders receive? Mr @Mastermind ?

I think its interesting that the bottle clearly states it is European manufactured. Yamaha has no lube oil plants of its own that i'm aware of, so all Yamalubes are contract manufactured. A South African Yamaha m/c dealer friend of mine had 'test strips' once, and at that time and grade Motul and Yamalube could not be proven different. Not saying all Yamalube is Motul manufactured, but some has been.

 

[full chizel]

That is a great idea. I learned long ago just put it out there, who cares what others say, criticism is to be expected how you deal with it is what matters IMHO. That's how I always looked at it anyways, *a-holes like my self will always have hard questions and strong opinions. Egg Man you're way too sensitive to this stuff, and in turn way too aggressive at times, just go about the testing and have fun with it.


I too asked Amsoil a few questions about Dominator and the nature of certain oils being hydroscopic and more prone to corrosion. The answer I received was. "We don't discuss our base oils" I'm guessing they're getting tired of all these questions, as that was pretty much a get lost reply. That or they're watching [emoji102].

As I and others have said before ester oils are going to be more prone to corrosion by nature. This is not to say an oil shouldn't be used or what not, it's just information. I think we all would agree if you have concerns about corrosion other fine products are available.[emoji111]

So would a synthetic blend like Super M actually be better than a full synthetic in this case?

 

[andyshine77]

So would a synthetic blend like Super M actually be better than a full synthetic in this case?

That could very well be so, it also may burn better in OPE. When I talked to the rep he said Super M is like K2 light and the carbon it does leave behind will be softer than oils with higher diester content, I haven't ran it enough to say, but have run lots of K2. That said oils like Yamalube are probably best if you're truly worried about corrosion. Just started burning some Honda HP2, that oil is on my shortlist for sure, carboxylic ester base I believe.

So what's the short list here fellas?

If say from my own personal experience and what we've seen here.

R2
K2/Super M
HP2
Dominator
RA
Schaefer's
Motul 710?

The race crowd?
Klotz oreginal
Maxima 927
Motul 800?

 

[Keith Gandy]

I'm still gonna run my 2 stroke oil cocktail. My results don't lie...
Good enough for who its for...

Whats the mix u use again? Do u run the fuel conditioner with it?

 

[Mastermind]

Just bumping this up, can anyone confirm my NZ 2R is the same packaging as you Statesiders receive? Mr @Mastermind ?

I think its interesting that the bottle clearly states it is European manufactured. Yamaha has no lube oil plants of its own that i'm aware of, so all Yamalubes are contract manufactured. A South African Yamaha m/c dealer friend of mine had 'test strips' once, and at that time and grade Motul and Yamalube could not be proven different. Not saying all Yamalube is Motul manufactured, but some has been.

I didn't reply because I wasn't sure if there might be a difference. Does Yamaha have any contact information on the bottle?

 

[RI Chevy]

Whats the mix u use again? Do u run the fuel conditioner with it?

I use RA, a little Klotz Benol, and a little Motul 800. I know use that fuel treatment I posted above, and I use STABIL when I buy my fuel.

Right now I tried VP oil at 50:1 to start, then added my Klotz and Motul to get to 36:1. I'm not really feelin this VP oil...

 

[Keith Gandy]

I use RA, a little Klotz Benol, and a little Motul 800. I know use that fuel treatment I posted above, and I use STABIL when I buy my fuel.

Your blend gets $$$!!Sounds like its working for u . That fuel conditioner is interesting

 

[Mastermind]

Isn't Yamalube 2R in the states mineral based or synthetic blend? His picture shows full synthetic.

Full synthetic, with esters.....I think.

 

[RI Chevy]

Your blend gets $$$!!Sounds like its working for u . That fuel conditioner is interesting

Its all relative. Pennies on a dollar. We spend lots of money on ported saws, least we can do is keep them lubed well for longevity.
I pulled the muff cover on my 026 after a few days of pretty good usuage. I was completely amazed as I most always am. The insides literally looked brand new. The 026 is my most used saw. BUT I do the same to all my saws, which is clean them after use and after a few days or so of heavy usage, pull the muff cover and plug to be sure all is good inside. Just me and my PM.
SO, I think I will stick with whatever I'm doing...lol

 

[Keith Gandy]

Its all relative. Pennies on a dollar. We spend lots of money on ported saws, least we can do is keep them lubed well for longevity.
I pulled the muff cover on my 026 after a few days of pretty good usuage. I was completely amazed as I most always am. The insides literally looked brand new. The 026 is my most used saw. BUT I do the same to all my saws, which is clean them after use and after a few days or so of heavy usage, pull the muff cover and plug to be sure all is good inside. Just me and my PM.
SO, I think I will stick with whatever I'm doing...lol

Sounds good Jeff. I was looking at a 200t I was working on yesterday for a treeservice ran only on Ultra only for a long while after a rebuild I did a few years ago. It suprised me with alil buildup in the exhaust port with carbon but the piston/ring loooked great. I had ditched the arrestor on the rebuild though. Im thinking alot of the Ultras problem is screen micron size is critical . It was still a gooey mess at the outlet though

 

[MFL]

Just want to say I have been following this thread and think it is one of the best. Egg Shooter, thank you for all your time!!!!! You da man.
I'm just a firewood hack & use mix in my chainsaws, weed whip & blowers. This equipment is a mix of Stihl, Husky & Echo. The oil I have using lately has been Stihl, Royal Purple & Red Armor (because of this thread) . I always try & use the best product at a fair price in all my equipment.
Andyshine started a summary above and would love to see this commented on. Where are we to this point with thoughts on each. Only thing I would like if someone would post the full names of the oils at least on the main list.
Thanks!

 

[RI Chevy]

Sounds good Jeff. I was looking at a 200t I was working on yesterday for a treeservice ran only on Ultra only for a long while after a rebuild I did a few years ago. It suprised me with alil buildup in the exhaust port with carbon but the piston/ring loooked great. I had ditched the arrestor on the rebuild though. Im thinking alot of the Ultras problem is screen micron size is critical . It was still a gooey mess at the outlet though

Nice Keith. You have them conditioned to run 40:1?

 

[Keith Gandy]

Nice Keith. You have them conditioned to run 40:1?

No sir. This treeservice has alot of equipment and keeps it universal at 50to1with Ultra. They like the small tree saws turned up screaming and I tune the long bars, (460,660,390xp,441,etc), on the strong side of 4 stroke. They are very rough on equipment

 

[RI Chevy]

I hear you. They are penny wise and dollar foolish!
Their loss. Good for you though...lol

 

[Mastermind]

Sounds good Jeff. I was looking at a 200t I was working on yesterday for a treeservice ran only on Ultra only for a long while after a rebuild I did a few years ago. It suprised me with alil buildup in the exhaust port with carbon but the piston/ring loooked great. I had ditched the arrestor on the rebuild though. Im thinking alot of the Ultras problem is screen micron size is critical . It was still a gooey mess at the outlet though

Stihl Ultra (if the stink doesn't bother you) needs to be used at 50:1. At 40:1, it's really nasty.

 

[andyshine77]

The Yamalube 2R we have is a synthetic blend with lots of PIB.

 

[andyshine77]

Now the thing about 2R is the manufacturer of the oil has changed over the years, so it is possible the formula is now different than it was a few years ago. The newest MSDS from 2016 states Spectrum a Phillips 66 company. manufacturers the oil. the one from 07 says Citgo and lists the color of the oil as green.