High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What kind of #@%*!# hack?

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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Bigmac

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Chainsaw Jim

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Seems like enough. I hope it works for ya.:thumbsup:
I wish the cylinder had better plating. It needs some big fingers and whatnot, but it may not take it. I suppose if it runs well enough it'll be worth sending off to us chrome.
I need to get a few saws done before I can get back to this one.
 

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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I wish the cylinder had better plating. It needs some big fingers and whatnot, but it may not take it. I suppose if it runs well enough it'll be worth sending off to us chrome.
I need to get a few saws done before I can get back to this one.
How do you account for different wrist pin diameters?
 

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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Looks good Jimbo.

Thickness should be fine, I think. My 026 pistons get pretty thin with cutting off the dome and I’ve never had an issue, but you are on the edge of an area that weighs a lot. I’d polish the top to remove any stress risers.

It just looks heavy. Also looks like compression will be in the 280 range.

You always seem to pull the impossible off with few tools and lots of talent and skill.

Can’t wait to see it run. I used a spacer plate when I did one with a 395 piston. The pin location allowed fingers. It was 180psi and a total beach to start.

Do you need a custom metal badge for it?
 

Chainsaw Jim

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How do you account for different wrist pin diameters?
The rod ends are the same diameter on both saws. 13mm thin bearing, 12mm thick bearing. 395 piston on the 660 is plug and play, the 660 piston on the 395 would require clearancing to fit the wider rod end. There's no need for spacers with the 395 on the 660 because the cylinder holds everything centered.
 

Deets066

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The rod ends are the same diameter on both saws. 13mm thin bearing, 12mm thick bearing. 395 piston on the 660 is plug and play, the 660 piston on the 395 would require clearancing to fit the wider rod end. There's no need for spacers with the 395 on the 660 because the cylinder holds everything centered.
Spacers are used to hold the rod straight, not center the piston. Once that wrist pin bearing wears a little the rod gets more lateral movement
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Spacers are used to hold the rod straight, not center the piston. Once that wrist pin bearing wears a little the rod gets more lateral movement
Dammit Billy! You made me get up to go back out in the shop to take a look.
I thought the weights held it tighter centered than that. It doesn't shift side to side far enough to expose a lower bearing roller, but if the top and bottom goes in the opposite direction then it'll definitely chew hard and probably eat the lower bearing cage.
I guess I'll use the ends off a couple cages with bad bearings for spacers, unless they're too sloppy on the pin. Or a junk piston pin boss, hacked and milled.
 
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