Tree Felling Technique Thread

[Cat 525]

Reflective also good for the crazies driving around shooting out the timbers!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Hazards
Hinge
Escape route
Lean
Plan

That's what they gave us at the FISTA course I took. I guess HHELP is close enough to HELP to make it stick in your mind. "Hinge" is just determining your desired width and thicknesses, generally as a function of the diameter of the tree. "Plan" is basically decide what to do given the info from the first 4 assessments.

I have personally found it to be of some help, especially when I'm trying to remember what to talk about if I'm showing someone what I'm doing. Also, I do believe in the power of checklists. Getting in a rythm can be dangerous. It's good to stop and examine your thinking.

Good stuff Ryan, thank you

 

[XP_Slinger]

I’ll write out the steps we go through and teach around here but it won’t be until tomorrow night as I’m a bit busy with other paperwork tonight. It can be written out short or long, depending on how much detail you want.

Much appreciated, write however much detail you think is needed to get the info out constructively. I’m just the hack that started the thread, not a pro. Looking forward to your post tomorrow.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Reflective also good for the crazies driving around shooting out the timbers!

Absolutely. See guys felling in Real tree camo. God bless em, I won’t do that

 

[Drptrch]

@Drptrch My technician just finished S212 through the USFS in east TN. They told him in no way should they use a Humboldt cut. Is this a regional thing or USFS thing?

I am also just a hack and have picked up some valuable techniques from loggers and USFS. The biggest difference I have found between the two is loggers don’t want to screw up the butt log and the USFS guys want to make the safest cut possible.

I bore cut some, but usually don’t worry about fiber pull so I use a conventional method.

I only know out here which is mainly large softwood or Oaks, steep terrain
Hazard or Contract fallers are from the logging profession and that’s what they use.

As to why they said no Humbolt, IDK
My 212 class was taught by FS instructor and we did both

https://www.fs.fed.us/sites/default/files/fs-saw-operations-guide-20141208.docx

Sec 4.2.


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[Drptrch]

@Drptrch My technician just finished S212 through the USFS in east TN. They told him in no way should they use a Humboldt cut. Is this a regional thing or USFS thing?

I am also just a hack and have picked up some valuable techniques from loggers and USFS. The biggest difference I have found between the two is loggers don’t want to screw up the butt log and the USFS guys want to make the safest cut possible.

I bore cut some, but usually don’t worry about fiber pull so I use a conventional method.

@jacob j. What say you ??

I PM’d @2dogs as he is a Contract Hazard faller, for CalFire and might have onsite



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[Coltont]

That's a crazy looking stump! Can you explain the process? How do you steer/control the tree?

All of this is very interesting to me.

You don't steer or control it without hinge wood.

 

[XP_Slinger]

That's a crazy looking stump! Can you explain the process? How do you steer/control the tree?

All of this is very interesting to me.

This video shows the same method. You can see there’s no control when it goes down. Talk about some some bore cutting skills.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Newbie hack question. What determines the “good side” and “bad side” of the tree you’re working on? My inexperienced guess is the good side is the side you’ve planned your escape route to be on. Other factors like side lean maybe?

 

[hseII]

with a longer bar makes it easier to line up your cuts .

Harrumph
Harrumph


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[hseII]

Longer bars do make it easier to line up cuts. But east coast logging is different than west and not everything is interchangeable. 32-36” bar is almost useless here for logging the way we do it. Most of the time I like a 24/28 on a 70-90cc. Been doing a lot of 20” bar work lately though. Residential is the only time you really need a long bar for stumping or felling those fat yard trees here. Your gonna get a lot of varying opinions on this however.

I guess I’m on the Wrong Coast.


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[hseII]

Steep & Deep is how I like my faces, but these beetle kill pines didn’t afford such comfort.

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[hseII]

If they don’t like the humbolt for safety, or an open face cut for its control....WTF do they use and did they say why????

Good deal on getting some training going. Everyone can learn, if they’re willing of course.

It’s a Regional thing man: just like the dislike for long bars & wrap handles.


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[XP_Slinger]

Steep & Deep is how I like my faces, but these beetle kill pines didn’t afford such comfort.

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Text book stump. Nice job Heath. I hate cutting standing dead, frigin dangerous.

 

[XP_Slinger]

It’s a Regional thing man: just like the dislike for long bars & wrap handles.


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People dislike wrap handles? Lol

 

[hseII]

Newbie hack question. What determines the “good side” and “bad side” of the tree you’re working on? My inexperienced guess is the good side is the side you’ve planned your escape route to be on. Other factors like side lean maybe?

Lean
Terrain
Top- (hangers, widow makers, top weight, etc.)


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[hseII]

People dislike wrap handles? Lol

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[hseII]

You don't steer or control it without hinge wood.

Thank You.


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[hseII]

After looking at the top,
I decided to Bore this one rather than use a conventional back cut. In hindsight, I should have just made a conventional back cut as even though there was a lot of top weight leaning towards the lay, there was a few crooks in the stem that negated the top.

I had to bust out the steels on this one.

I left the hinge heavy on the left side for 2 reasons:
1. The house was just outside the lay & in the potential zone.

2. I’ve cut a lot of Red Oak in the past year that seemed healthy but the stump wood was already compromised due to decay.

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[treesmith]

And watch from a safe distance lol. Bad scenario unless you have the equipment to rectify the situation

Throwline and ropes are very handy