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Stihl 1127 (029/039) Repair Thread.

fearofpavement

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I've found it helpful on these saws to use an ice cube tray to put parts in as you disassemble so you can work it backwards during reassembly. I work on this series saw (1127) more than any other because they're plentiful and also intimidating to tear down for many people. Once you've done a few, it's pretty easy like many other things in life... Nice thread.
 

stihl_head1982

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Can you clarify what hard seals mean please?

And thanks again for the sweet build thread.

The hard seals for these units are used for replacement while the pan is still assembled. I've built a crap load of these saws, but never used these type.
(Since the pan on this saw was assembled with the wrong sealant, it had to be taken apart, cleaned and resealed.) He swapped them for the common seals.
 

Tor R

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View attachment 102231
Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, I like to resurface them on a flat plate.

View attachment 102232
Going back together with Dirko, simply because it is Stihl OEM. Hondabond works just as well.

View attachment 102233
Apply a thin layer to both sides, and oil up the cylinder.

View attachment 102234
New crank seals on, this installation tool makes life easy.

View attachment 102235
Engine back together, using nuts as spacers until the sealant sets.
even I'm a Husky guy, them Stihl clamshell saws are way better then them Husky clamshells, guess I'll never get used to them.

Another great thread Joe
 

stihl_head1982

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I like to unbolt the coil and leave the wires attached to the handle. Think it easier than fishing those wires and resetting the grommet for them.

Actually a very good idea. (Incidentally the MS250 is in many ways a smaller version of this saw. Some things different but indeed a smaller replica).
 
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