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Stihl 1127 (029/039) Repair Thread.

Onan18

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Been giving the Husqvarnas a lot of love lately, I figured it was time to do a German saw. This chassis was Stihls best seller for a very long time and the reason is simple, it is a solid, reliable firewood saw.

This thread will cover the general repairs to the 029/039/MS 290/MS 310/MS 390. As solid as they are this chassis is starting to get some age on it and saws are failing accordingly.

On the bench is a MS 290, typical firewood saw, needs a new fuel line, impulse line, carb kit, crank seals, and the engine pan resealed.

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Not a bad looking old saw.

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New parts.

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A little closer so you can hopefully see the part numbers better.
 

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20171218_112228.jpg
Start by removing the air filter cover.

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Two flat head screws hold the air filter on.

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Now for the throttle rod.

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Depress the throttle trigger.

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And you will be able to see where the throttle rod snaps in.
 

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20171218_112949.jpg
Recoil off next.

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Should have FOUR of these screws (And people say Huskys are bad about missing screws).

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The brake flag pivots on this bushing, do not lose it.

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Flywheel nut off, 13mm or 1/2 inch.

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And pull the flywheel.
 

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20171218_113349.jpg
Shield washer off next, it has TOP stamped into it so you know which way it faces.

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Wind the worm gear out.

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Oil pump is held in with two screws.

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Remove them and disconnect the line.

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And the pump pulls out.
 

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20171218_114038.jpg
There are seven screws that hold the handle on, five are on the side.

20171218_114046.jpg Of those, three are hiding in the A/V mounts.

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And there are two more on the bottom.

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Don't forget the one in the front mount.

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Handle off.
 

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The rear handle and top cover are one piece on this chassis.

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Pull the boot through, careful not to poke a hole in it.

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Disconnect the tank vent line.

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Remove the ground screw from the cylinder.

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Disconnect the kill wires from the master control lever.

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It can be a little fidgety but the handle will pull off.
 

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20171218_114921.jpg
The rear bar stud screws into the engine pan and has to be removed. The easiest way is to lock the two bar studs together.

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It will be hard coming out because there is Loctite on it, but it will come out.

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Four screws go in from the bottom.

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Remove them.

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Engine out.
 

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20171218_140634.jpg
Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, I like to resurface them on a flat plate.

20171218_140638.jpg
Going back together with Dirko, simply because it is Stihl OEM. Hondabond works just as well.

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Apply a thin layer to both sides, and oil up the cylinder.

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New crank seals on, this installation tool makes life easy.

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Engine back together, using nuts as spacers until the sealant sets.
 
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