Poulan Pro 330 build (raffle saw for AdirondackStihl)

[Mastermind]

Any updates on this?

 

[Sleeper]

Still waiting on parts. Another member here is kind enough to look for parts in his stuff and off of the web.

He's been a bit busy.

I have been busy with stuff as well.

This saw has priority over my personal saw projects. (exception is simple stuff on other saws)

 

[Mastermind]

Still waiting on parts. Another member here is kind enough to look for parts in his stuff and off of the web.

He's been a bit busy.

I have been busy with stuff as well.

This saw has priority over my personal saw projects. (exception is simple stuff on other saws)

Thank you sir.

No huge hurry I'm sure. Looks like it's gonna take awhile to get thru the drawing. LOL

 

[Lightning Performance]

I always wet sanded jugs with chrome by hand with a wood dowel. It takes a long long time. Saves the Chrome from being sanded off or causing ditches in the walls. Sand around the wall with the dowel perpendicular to the bore wall. You can cuss me out later after the cramping subsides.

 

[tp2177]

Just noticed that my grand dads old chainsaw was a poulan pro 335. Looked it over today and it’s still in really good condition and cranks and runs great. Dad has it right now and will keep it in good condition. Gonna try and talk him out of it one day lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Sleeper]

Got the piston in the mail today. Ordered from ebay.

Not an OEM Poulan. It is an aftermarket one. Looks really well made. I would not hesitate to use this piston (or others from this source) in one of my own saws. (LRB brand)

Have some others on the way. The bulk of parts have yet to get here, from another member here.

 

[Sleeper]

Worked on the saw a bit today. Got the cylinder about 98% free of aluminum transfer. Did it by hand with some 240 grit and 600 grit. Worked well and took about 15 minutes or so to get tons of that transfer off of the chrome plating. Have a tiny bit left, will work on that some more after supper.


Installed the piston onto the connecting rod, with oil on the bearing and wrist pin. Aftermarket wrist pin was a barely perceptible difference in oz compared to OEM, so I used it. It was almost exactly 1 oz, while the OEM was just a fuzz less.


As for circlips, could not get the clip out of the unnotched side of the OEM piston, so I used the aftermarket clips.

Cylinder is not on the saw yet, so if you have had these clips be a problem, let me know sometime tonight.

I checked the springiness and return to form tendencies of the clips and it looks good from my moderately trained eye.

They do have these ears that make installing them real easy. Have read elsewhere that some guys clip those ears off to keep the clip from coming out? Necessary or just an old precaution?


Will have some pictures of what has been done either tonight or tomorrow.

As for this saw, I may or may not be the one finishing it. I have surgeries coming up soon, and since they are on my eyes, I have to take it real easy for quite a while. I still have to work next week as well.

Long story short, went to eye doctor, she found questionable problems in my eyes, sent me to a specialist, and we found out both eyes have lattice and both eyes also have the beginnings of retinal detachment. As my brother had the same problems, I figured this would also apply to me. I was right.


Still waiting on some parts, but I will get as much done as possible. If necessary, I will send the saw to someone that can get it done sooner, if that is what the @fossil wants.

Will not be able to tear the saw all the way down for a good cleaning, it will be a mission of getting it clean enough and put back together to run. New fuel and impulse lines will be installed, as well as a carb kit.

Otherwise, it will have to wait to be finished, about 2 months, maybe longer.

 

[Sleeper]

Here are some pictures. I still have yet to install the cylinder, as it needs to be run through the US cleaner a couple times.


Here's what I started with on the cylinder.




Here's about halfway through the sanding operation.



Here's the end result.



Started with 240 grit, medium pressure on the scoring, went to 600 grit crocus cloth which took what was left off. I have two thin lines of transfer left, you can see them in the picture. That will be addressed too.


Here's the piston, shiny and new.





Any questions? Comments?

 

[fossil]

Worked on the saw a bit today. Got the cylinder about 98% free of aluminum transfer. Did it by hand with some 240 grit and 600 grit. Worked well and took about 15 minutes or so to get tons of that transfer off of the chrome plating. Have a tiny bit left, will work on that some more after supper.


Installed the piston onto the connecting rod, with oil on the bearing and wrist pin. Aftermarket wrist pin was a barely perceptible difference in oz compared to OEM, so I used it. It was almost exactly 1 oz, while the OEM was just a fuzz less.


As for circlips, could not get the clip out of the unnotched side of the OEM piston, so I used the aftermarket clips.

Cylinder is not on the saw yet, so if you have had these clips be a problem, let me know sometime tonight.

I checked the springiness and return to form tendencies of the clips and it looks good from my moderately trained eye.

They do have these ears that make installing them real easy. Have read elsewhere that some guys clip those ears off to keep the clip from coming out? Necessary or just an old precaution?


Will have some pictures of what has been done either tonight or tomorrow.

As for this saw, I may or may not be the one finishing it. I have surgeries coming up soon, and since they are on my eyes, I have to take it real easy for quite a while. I still have to work next week as well.

Long story short, went to eye doctor, she found questionable problems in my eyes, sent me to a specialist, and we found out both eyes have lattice and both eyes also have the beginnings of retinal detachment. As my brother had the same problems, I figured this would also apply to me. I was right.


Still waiting on some parts, but I will get as much done as possible. If necessary, I will send the saw to someone that can get it done sooner, if that is what the @fossil wants.

Will not be able to tear the saw all the way down for a good cleaning, it will be a mission of getting it clean enough and put back together to run. New fuel and impulse lines will be installed, as well as a carb kit.

Otherwise, it will have to wait to be finished, about 2 months, maybe longer.

Take your time Kyle. No rush. I understand the eye problem deal as I have glaucoma. Get well first. I certainly appreciate your efforts and I can clean the saw up or even finish it if you like.

 

[Sleeper]

Take your time Kyle. No rush. I understand the eye problem deal as I have glaucoma. Get well first. I certainly appreciate your efforts and I can clean the saw up or even finish it if you like.

I have been working on this saw lately.

Got the carb out of the airbox, looks really clean outside, but still am going to clean it up inside with carb cleaner and install a new kit. Trimmed the limiter tabs as a modded muffler will be installed. Fuel and impulse lines will be done, as well as a fuel filter.

Cylinder looks almost as good as new now. Got the remaining thin streaks cleaned off the plating.

After getting the carb and stuff cleaned and reinstalled, the cylinder will probably still not be put on just yet.

Going to see about the condition of the crank seals. At the minimum, a good visual inspection and checking for cracks.

 

[Sleeper]

Got some more parts in today. Muffler, front wrap handle, a few screws/bolts, and a kill switch.

Will disclose parts source once we're sure all parts he wishes to send are here.

 

[Sleeper]

New fuel line is installed, new impulse line is installed. New fuel filter is installed as well. Carb kit on the way, should be here tomorrow.

Is it okay to use tygon for impulse lines? I know with fuel lines, it doesn't seem to last. If it isn't okay to use it, please let me know and I will find a piece of rubber line to use instead. This is the Oregon stuff, at least that is what the box says on it.

Is there a good way to clean up around the seals without using brake kleen or carb clean?

I know those are hard on rubber, and don't want to ruin a seal that may end up being okay until it cracked from having pure hydrocarbons spewed onto it.

Should I just use a toothbrush and warm soapy water?

 

[Mastermind]

New fuel line is installed, new impulse line is installed. New fuel filter is installed as well. Carb kit on the way, should be here tomorrow.

Is it okay to use tygon for impulse lines? I know with fuel lines, it doesn't seem to last. If it isn't okay to use it, please let me know and I will find a piece of rubber line to use instead. This is the Oregon stuff, at least that is what the box says on it.

Is there a good way to clean up around the seals without using brake kleen or carb clean?

I know those are hard on rubber, and don't want to ruin a seal that may end up being okay until it cracked from having pure hydrocarbons spewed onto it.

Should I just use a toothbrush and warm soapy water?

Wd40 cleans very well, and won't hurt the seals. Tygon is not a great idea for impulse line.

 

[Sleeper]

Wd40 cleans very well, and won't hurt the seals. Tygon is not a great idea for impulse line.

Good stuff to know. I will find a better piece of line to use for the impulse. Thanks Randy!

 

[Sleeper]

Checked the seals, they look good. If it acts up after I get it fired up and warmed up the first few times, then the seals have deceived me and they will receive a proper clubbing.

No play in main bearings either. Rolls over very smooth with a slight drag since the cylinder is installed with the new piston and piston ring. Compression feels excellent. Can't wait to hear this saw run.

Started putting it back together, only a couple of parts needed now. Got it mostly assembled. It's close to being run for the first time since it was taken apart.

Will post a picture of the 330 later.


Parts list:

1. wrap handle mounting screws (4 of them, two on the bottom, and two on the side)
2. clutch cover with or without chainbrake

These 5 parts are required to run it.

 

[Sleeper]

Here's a couple pictures. Very close to running it.

 

[Sleeper]

Found a clutch cover, it fits. No chain brake though. So @fossil be careful with this saw.

Now to find those wrap handle screws. Socket cap 1/4"-10 pitch .875" long. Need four of them.

Still recovering at this time. Everything is blurry. Just able to barely see what I am typing.

 

[Mastermind]

Found a clutch cover, it fits. No chain brake though. So @fossil be careful with this saw.

Now to find those wrap handle screws. Socket cap 1/4"-10 pitch .875" long. Need four of them.

Still recovering at this time. Everything is blurry. Just able to barely see what I am typing.

Anything you can't find, Tim will be able to. Don't stress over it. Just concentrate on getting well.

 

[fossil]

Found a clutch cover, it fits. No chain brake though. So @fossil be careful with this saw.

Now to find those wrap handle screws. Socket cap 1/4"-10 pitch .875" long. Need four of them.

Still recovering at this time. Everything is blurry. Just able to barely see what I am typing.

Take care of yourself! Very few of my saws have brakes.

Why don't you just pack it up and ship it. I will give you a US address and pay for the trip as well. If you want to do that, PM me for info. I don't feel right that you struggling to do this.

That is true. I can find stuff.

 

[fossil]

Found a clutch cover, it fits. No chain brake though. So @fossil be careful with this saw.

Now to find those wrap handle screws. Socket cap 1/4"-10 pitch .875" long. Need four of them.

Still recovering at this time. Everything is blurry. Just able to barely see what I am typing.

I sent you a PM Kyle