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Definitive Dave

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@Jon1212 What direction do the Danzco rims go?

Important: Danzco rims do not have the drive slot centered in the mass of the rim.
There is not a set in stone "right" way to install them, you need to line everything up, saw, rim, chain and bar, both with and without the clutch cover and rotate the chain by hand, before ever starting the saw with the rim on it.
If it feels like it "catches" at any point or looks out of alignment (perfectly straight looking down from above the saw without the clutch cover), or if there is chatter rotating by hand then flip it over and try again.
Improper alignment will cause wacky binding of the chain and thrown chains suck a lot.
That binding also ruins the fast efficient drive you bought the rim to achieve.
I run them on a good number of saws of different sizes and brands and can attest there is no standard fit.
Dave
 

Definitive Dave

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Neither way fits mine perfectly, hence Matt's chain flying off at 11k. I tried both, but with the big side in it was wearing into the pump.
One of my saws had so much "float" from side to side away from the sprocket that I ended up making spacers to keep is where it was straight.
I think it was my MS241 when I switched from the drum style to the sprocket and rim and started going larger.
I used a nice thick washer and a tapered step drill in the press to get it to fit snuggly around the hub spline and the clutch washer and clip hold it perfect.
Dave
 

huskihl

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One of my saws had so much "float" from side to side away from the sprocket that I ended up making spacers to keep is where it was straight.
I think it was my MS241 when I switched from the drum style to the sprocket and rim and started going larger.
I used a nice thick washer and a tapered step drill in the press to get it to fit snuggly around the hub spline and the clutch washer and clip hold it perfect.
Dave
On mine, it would have better if the sprocket groove were dead center. But it works the way it is. I could also fit a small shim between it and the oil pump.
 

huskihl

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Important: Danzco rims do not have the drive slot centered in the mass of the rim.
There is not a set in stone "right" way to install them, you need to line everything up, saw, rim, chain and bar, both with and without the clutch cover and rotate the chain by hand, before ever starting the saw with the rim on it.
If it feels like it "catches" at any point or looks out of alignment (perfectly straight looking down from above the saw without the clutch cover), or if there is chatter rotating by hand then flip it over and try again.
Improper alignment will cause wacky binding of the chain and thrown chains suck a lot.
That binding also ruins the fast efficient drive you bought the rim to achieve.
I run them on a good number of saws of different sizes and brands and can attest there is no standard fit.
Dave

One of my saws had so much "float" from side to side away from the sprocket that I ended up making spacers to keep is where it was straight.
I think it was my MS241 when I switched from the drum style to the sprocket and rim and started going larger.
I used a nice thick washer and a tapered step drill in the press to get it to fit snuggly around the hub spline and the clutch washer and clip hold it perfect.
Dave
Of course, by now, your's should all have enough dirt packed around the rim where you shouldn't need a washer to dead center it any longer.


:rolleyes:
 

sawfun

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The wait was definitely worth it. This thing is a blast. Crazy what can actually be done to these things. View attachment 56188
Them MMWS 395's, we'll now thay's a special kind a machine that in its own class. 120cc ported power under 18lbs. Even had a few west coast builders take their hat off to the performance of mine.
 

Mike05gto

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Important: Danzco rims do not have the drive slot centered in the mass of the rim.
There is not a set in stone "right" way to install them, you need to line everything up, saw, rim, chain and bar, both with and without the clutch cover and rotate the chain by hand, before ever starting the saw with the rim on it.
If it feels like it "catches" at any point or looks out of alignment (perfectly straight looking down from above the saw without the clutch cover), or if there is chatter rotating by hand then flip it over and try again.
Improper alignment will cause wacky binding of the chain and thrown chains suck a lot.
That binding also ruins the fast efficient drive you bought the rim to achieve.
I run them on a good number of saws of different sizes and brands and can attest there is no standard fit.
Dave

With the Danzco rim I have I had to put the side with the rivets down to the oil pump to get the best alignment. Pull by hand and it is smooth.
 

Time's Standing Stihl

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One of my saws had so much "float" from side to side away from the sprocket that I ended up making spacers to keep is where it was straight.
I think it was my MS241 when I switched from the drum style to the sprocket and rim and started going larger.
I used a nice thick washer and a tapered step drill in the press to get it to fit snuggly around the hub spline and the clutch washer and clip hold it perfect.
Dave
Dirt Digger Dave-

When you going to get the 10 tooth back in stock? Was wanting to purchase one last week with the other handful of sprockets I gots from ya
 

Mike05gto

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Them MMWS 395's, we'll now thay's a special kind a machine that in its own class. 120cc ported power under 18lbs. Even had a few west coast builders take their hat off to the performance of mine.

It definitely runs. Can't wait to find the right rim, with a race chain.
 

Definitive Dave

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Dirt Digger Dave-

When you going to get the 10 tooth back in stock? Was wanting to purchase one last week with the other handful of sprockets I gots from ya

Should be late this coming week, doing a lot of ordering this weekend
 

astnmacgto

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It definitely runs. Can't wait to find the right rim, with a race chain.
Totally hi jacking the thread here, is your gto manual or auto, I have 05 as well
 

astnmacgto

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Sorry for the late response.

Gto is m6. SBE, stock trans, stock rear end. I need to turn it up alittle more this summer. Plan is to run 9s this year if the trans will hold.
Sweet, mine is cyclone grey m6 factory 18s built trans, it's possibly gonna get a cam and headers this year
 

Mike05gto

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Sweet, mine is cyclone grey m6 factory 18s built trans, it's possibly gonna get a cam and headers this year

I really want to get my hands on some factory 18s. Who built the trans in it. Cam swap on these cars is cake work, but depending on brand of headers you will hate your life.

I had a Tvs1900 on my car before with 1 7/8 kooks and they were a *b-word to get off. Had to lower the steering rack and such to get them out. Go to Lil John motorsports for a cam and you will be super happy with the results.
 

astnmacgto

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I really want to get my hands on some factory 18s. Who built the trans in it. Cam swap on these cars is cake work, but depending on brand of headers you will hate your life.

I had a Tvs1900 on my car before with 1 7/8 kooks and they were a *b-word to get off. Had to lower the steering rack and such to get them out. Go to Lil John motorsports for a cam and you will be super happy with the results.
Not sure what combo I'm going with just yet. Thanks for the advice
 
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