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Ms 290 repair

panteliss

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  • Stihl MS 290,310,390 service.pdf
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fearofpavement

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The MS290 sells for between $200 and $275 around here with $225-$250 about average.

It will essentially become an MS390 with this kit so you could probably add $100 to that number. The entire engine being aftermarket will depreciate it a bit in my opinion. I usually just change the piston/cylinder and use all the other Stihl parts. Lots cheaper and have rarely seen other parts go bad. (bearings only get changed if condition warrants)
 
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jake wells

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i thought the 390 weighted the same as a 290.
 

sefh3

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Great homeowner saw. I have rebuilt and sold a ton of these saws. I get $250-300 for a good running 390. Just make sure you reseal the base to the cylinder. Dirko Hondabond Yamabond any of these work good. Mod the muffler and retune. Makes for a great runner with a 20" bar. Just make sure you take your time on removing the rear bar stud. Dont mess it up and chew into your profit.
 

VK Johnson

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I installed a Bailey kit in my 290 a coupla months ago...couldn't be happier...runs stronger than original, gets the bigger stuff that I need gotten. You'll be fine, much less fuss and muss, and it's got a warranty!
 

Davek134

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Thanks vk

It just arrived
 

Terry Syd

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With the 49mm piston, drilling out the limiter jet on the low speed circuit in the carb and a muffler mod, these cheap saws are surprisingly strong and will take a heap of abuse. I hate working on them and the problem of getting the wiring harness and impulse line through the plastic, but once they're together they're good value. Check the fuel hose and impulse line, you may want to replace them.
 

stihl_head1982

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Syd can you picture the limiter jet on this carb and illustrate the area. What size drill are you using to open it up? I also wondered if filing the key inside the flywheel and advancing the timing would be a benefit. I just built a MS390 and am looking to tweak it a little more.
 

Terry Syd

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My photo software has been deleted since the last computer crash. If you post a picture of the inside of your carb (or someone's carb) I'll explain what you need to do. You have to open up the carb anyway to do the mods, might as well do it in real time over the 'net. It's a real easy mod to do.

This series engine NEEDS some attention to the ignition advance. The factory specifications have an acceptable range of between 23.5 degrees and 28.5 degrees. That is a 5 degree variation between different engines. I had to add about 6 degrees to my engine - it made a heck of a difference. You mileage may vary depending where the manufacturing tolerances ended up.
 

sefh3

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My photo software has been deleted since the last computer crash. If you post a picture of the inside of your carb (or someone's carb) I'll explain what you need to do. You have to open up the carb anyway to do the mods, might as well do it in real time over the 'net. It's a real easy mod to do.

This series engine NEEDS some attention to the ignition advance. The factory specifications have an acceptable range of between 23.5 degrees and 28.5 degrees. That is a 5 degree variation between different engines. I had to add about 6 degrees to my engine - it made a heck of a difference. You mileage may vary depending where the manufacturing tolerances ended up.
well it shouldn't be hard to find a saw with a broken keyway. Many that I see the keyway is sheared. I have a few runners that don't have a keyway and are advanced but I have never measured it.
 
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