DrewUth
Too weird to live, too rare to die.
The d196 will work as well. The 455/655 is the same mount.
Whats the difference between the D196 and the D007?
The d196 will work as well. The 455/655 is the same mount.
Not much I believe . I can take some measurements when I get a chance if you like.Whats the difference between the D196 and the D007?
Not much I believe . I can take some measurements when I get a chance if you like.
When I'm back at home I will post the part number for the National seals that work. The Reed block to case is a spot where they leak quite often. I motoseal the case to the gasket and the gasket to the block.Not important really, I have some D196 bars on hand from my Poulans so I'm all set actually.
On another note, I ran both the P40 and the 1200A I got on Sunday. The 1200A ran great, but the P40 leans out in the cut no matter what I do with the H side adjustment. I'm certain it has a bad air leak somewhere. Before I tear into it, I was thinking of buying crank seals preemptively- so that once I have it apart, I wont (conceivably) have to wait to put it back together. How hard is it to find seals for these?
When I'm back at home I will post the part number for the National seals that work. The Reed block to case is a spot where they leak quite often. I motoseal the case to the gasket and the gasket to the block.
Not important really, I have some D196 bars on hand from my Poulans so I'm all set actually.
On another note, I ran both the P40 and the 1200A I got on Sunday. The 1200A ran great, but the P40 leans out in the cut no matter what I do with the H side adjustment. I'm certain it has a bad air leak somewhere. Before I tear into it, I was thinking of buying crank seals preemptively- so that once I have it apart, I wont (conceivably) have to wait to put it back together. How hard is it to find seals for these?
Perfect thank you for that. Oh and thanks for sharing this with me quite awhile ago.Pretty common seals
SKF CR 5606, National (Timken) 472705 both double lip nitrile
Others would make them as well
.5625 in Shaft, 1.0 in OD, 0.2500 in Width
Pretty common seals
SKF CR 5606, National (Timken) 472705 both double lip nitrile
Others would make them as well
.5625 in Shaft, 1.0 in OD, 0.2500 in Width
Nice 600 and that p50 is pretty clean. Usually the paint is gone on the p50.My Pioneer 600:
And a recently sold Pioneer P50 I used to have:
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When I'm back at home I will post the part number for the National seals that work. The Reed block to case is a spot where they leak quite often. I motoseal the case to the gasket and the gasket to the block.
That plug is a governor. It is likely malfunctioning. You can block it off by cutting a soda can to the same size as the plug end. The metering lever in the carb might be a little low as well. Last but not least the crank seals could be leaking as well. National oil seal part number 472705 works great.So I replaced the gasket between the reed and the cases, and double-sealed it like I have seen you do. Still leans out on top. Strange enough, while the H side does not seem to affect it at all, if I run the L side a little rich it takes longer for it to lean out. Also- there is a threaded brass plug located just ahead of the choke shaft on the clutch side of the carb- I have never seen this before. It was loose and I tightened it while the carb was off for the reed valve maintenance, but I am at a loss for what this plug hides?
That plug is a governor. It is likely malfunctioning. You can block it off by cutting a soda can to the same size as the plug end. The metering lever in the carb might be a little low as well. Last but not least the crank seals could be leaking as well. National oil seal part number 472705 works great.
Just make the piece the same size as the plug, and screw the plug back in. That will be the last time you have to mess with it. The metering lever should be flush or very slightly higher. These saws like fuel lol.So just press a solid plug into the threaded hole and seal it off?
I have crank seals ready to order, but that governor had me vexxed. I will check the metering lever level too. Thanks!
Just make the piece the same size as the plug, and screw the plug back in. That will be the last time you have to mess with it. The metering lever should be flush or very slightly higher. These saws like fuel lol.
Just some loctite and your good.Ah, I got it. Thanks! Do I need to seal it air tight? Maybe some loc-tite on the threads, or goop some permatex over it once I screw it back in?
Hello folks,
not sure if I'm right in this forum, but since this is the only Pioneer forum I found so far,
I'll try.
A buddy of mine dropped me an aged Pioneer saw, lable says Pioneer 1150.
I'm looking for any information about this saw before I start fiddling around with it.
The only hint I found so far is a record about a Pioneer 11-50.
but I'm not sure if it describes the saw I have since the model designations differ
(1150 vs. 11-50).
Any idea any body? Here are some pics of my 1150
View attachment 152446 View attachment 152447 View attachment 152448 :
Here is an update to my previous post. In today's bright daylight I found a type label which I have overlooked in yesterday evening's dim light. It's a 11-50 by the type label and made in Belgium. Did Pioneer outsource production or was it a licensed build?
View attachment 152453
The saw's body on the opposite side beneath the bar mount says it's been made in Canada:
View attachment 152452
So what's right?
The saw seems pretty well preserved and hasn't been used for many years now, but before that it was a runner according to my buddy who owned it. Below the only problem I've found so far: A crack in the sprocket cover.
View attachment 152451
Is this a saw worth to restore and keep running? I have no idea since I'm absolutely new in the Pioneer realms.
I don't know anything about the 11-50, but sure it's worth keeping it running. As far as I know Pioneer was only made in Canada, but that id tag is very interesting.Hi everybody,
the results of my questions (that is: none) are a bit disappointing, so to say...
If I'm not in the correct forum, a little advice where to look instead would be helpful.