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How to braze a deflector on a muffler

Flying_Dutchman

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Does it matter if I get the 45% rods instead of the wire? Also how would the 5% work compared to the 15%? The only thing I've found locally so far is 5% in 1/16" rods.

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Fruecrue

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Does it matter if I get the 45% rods instead of the wire? Also how would the 5% work compared to the 15%? The only thing I've found locally so far is 5% in 1/16" rods.

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There’s more mass in the rod over the wire and can act a bit sticky. Remember not to melt it with the torch. You want contact/ conduction from the base metal to melt the alloy. Once the rod warms up it flows nicely.

I’ve never used 5%.
 

Fifelaker

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The brazing sure looks much easier, and looks neater. What about the strength compared to welding? Good point Randy about the screens though. I like to have them. Don't ask me why lol.
Strength is a non issue, carbide teeth on saw blades are brazed on as you can't weld carbide.
 

Flying_Dutchman

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There’s more mass in the rod over the wire and can act a bit sticky. Remember not to melt it with the torch. You want contact/ conduction from the base metal to melt the alloy. Once the rod warms up it flows nicely.

I’ve never used 5%.
Thanks for the advice! I'll order some wire and flux sometime in the next day or two.

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tek9tim

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I'm stuck with bolt on deflectors for the most part.....gotta have a screen.

But for the guys that are ok without a screen, brazing is so much easier.

I've done a few of these where I make an H shaped hole, drill holes into the tabs that stick out (easier before you hog out the material), weld a deflector on, and screw a screen on from the inside. The deflector pictured has been in service for 11 years, and I actually stick welded it. Scrounging around found some super tiny 7018. Do what you've got to when you're in the middle of nowhere central Idaho and your oxy/acetylene tanks are still over in WA.
20211102_093129.jpg
Since I'm out west, I cut almost all of my firewood on public land where spark arrestors are required. It's automatic negligence if you start a fire without a spark arrestor, but if you start a fire and you had a spark arrestor you at least get to plead your case.
 

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For brazing stainless use Harris stay clean flux. It’s pretty nasty hydrofluoric acid, be very careful but it’s one of the only flux that will etch the stainless well
 

Cerberus

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Anyone know of a good deal on "kits" for doing this? I'm only looking to do about 3.5" so buying the smallest sized containers of all necessary stuff (except torches, have plenty of butane&propane torches, deflectors etc materials but none of the brazing stuff), if I buy smallest-size I'd be better off just paying someone to weld it, it seems... IE I'd spend an afternoon and well over $50 (at least) to (hopefully) end up with my 3.5" weld/braze and a whole bunch of extra brazing supplies that'd be stored-away :p

Love the idea and have a muffler I'm doing right now that'd really benefit but once i priced out everything it once again "looks more practical to just post a "$50 to someone who can do a 3" weld for me" advert on facebook" situation (and, if there, I'll just stick w/ the nuts&bolts, they're ugly but I can't justify $50 for aesthetics of my muffler!)
 

Cerberus

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Dave....have you tried that on a stainless steel muffler.....like an MS261?
Wow that would be HUGE to know, what materials are OK/NOT! I'd be looking to do this on my steel 660 muffler (think it's steel, maybe "pig iron" lol I don't know but it's ferrous/magnetic and heavy!), and on my 2511t stainless muffler I need to affix a "plate" (to block-off a hole entirely) so I expect it'd need to hold stronger in that case IE more pressure on it...though I guess I can just do a ton of overlap, if it is a worthwhile-expense for just 2 deflectors!
 

Ronie

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Anyone know of a good deal on "kits" for doing this? I'm only looking to do about 3.5" so buying the smallest sized containers of all necessary stuff (except torches, have plenty of butane&propane torches, deflectors etc materials but none of the brazing stuff), if I buy smallest-size I'd be better off just paying someone to weld it, it seems... IE I'd spend an afternoon and well over $50 (at least) to (hopefully) end up with my 3.5" weld/braze and a whole bunch of extra brazing supplies that'd be stored-away :p

Love the idea and have a muffler I'm doing right now that'd really benefit but once i priced out everything it once again "looks more practical to just post a "$50 to someone who can do a 3" weld for me" advert on facebook" situation (and, if there, I'll just stick w/ the nuts&bolts, they're ugly but I can't justify $50 for aesthetics of my muffler!)

I got my stuff from Amazon, the MAPP gas I got locally.

Screenshot from 2022-04-17 11-27-51.png Screenshot from 2022-04-17 11-27-13.png
 
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Ronie

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Wow that would be HUGE to know, what materials are OK/NOT! I'd be looking to do this on my steel 660 muffler (think it's steel, maybe "pig iron" lol I don't know but it's ferrous/magnetic and heavy!), and on my 2511t stainless muffler I need to affix a "plate" (to block-off a hole entirely) so I expect it'd need to hold stronger in that case IE more pressure on it...though I guess I can just do a ton of overlap, if it is a worthwhile-expense for just 2 deflectors!
I used it on a stainless pill grinder handle a few months ago.

KIMG3088.JPG
 

huskihl

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Ronie

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Same thing I use on stainless. Make sure it’s clean by sanding all the surfaces. For carbon steel I use bronze brazing rod because of the cost.
Can you use the bronze brazing rods with MAP, I got rid of my cutting torch and tanks years ago because I never used them and they were just taking up space.
 

huskihl

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Can you use the bronze brazing rods with MAP, I got rid of my cutting torch and tanks years ago because I never used them and they were just taking up space.
If you use the smaller rods, yes. 1/16”. But it takes quite a while to get it hot enough to melt the bronze, so it may be a better trade off using silver solder vs using up your Mapp gas I guess. With acetylene torches it melts almost instantly
 

Woodpecker

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Some of the hvac guys are starting to move toward oxy/mapp torches for brazing linesets. Should be able to get a torch for around 75 bucks and of course the mapp and oxy tanks are sold just about everywhere. Oxy/mapp will get you to about 5k degrees. Moar gooder than just Mapp alone.

when I took hvac classes we learned with both a traditional torch and Oxy/mapp. We had to be able to braze a hole closed in a pop can so it was water tight to pass the final exam.
 

Basher

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I do a good bit of copper plumbing and own several B tanks, they work very well for silver solder.
 
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