High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Homemade Reduced Weight Bar

mdavlee

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It's thin but hardened steel at least near the rails. I'd be nervous trying to punch a hole through it. I've punched 3/4" holes in A36 plate with some of them.
 

USMC615

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Big_6

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I don't know of the quality of the Relton Annular Cutters, but Hougen is superior to the brands I am familiar with.

Pig fat works well as lube.

There used to be an Industrail tooling company that sold it in a roll similar to the old cardboard drill sleeves.
Where can I find a pig or a farm for that matter.
No farms nearby ,,, unless I go to the TN gtg!!!
Yeah man!

Birdman
Group buy on the drill?
 

Jon1212

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I took the advice of @USMC615 , and picked up a 3" grinder yesterday. It's one of the cheap Harbor Freight models, but the wheel is vertical, so it seems more conducive to doing long cuts, and keeping square.

I already tried it out a little….I bought one of the 20" CN40 404 063 bars from LCS for $22. I lengthened the slot so I can use it with an adapter on my 288 or 395 with a 404-8pin. I figure it will be a hoot to run next to someone blocking firewood with MS291 or 455 Rancher……LOL!
 

Philbert

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Don't forget yer checkbook, or credit card with a sizeable amount available to spend when on the hunt for a good mag drill...'bout like hunting a core drill...expensive stuff.
You don't want to buy one, you want to know somebody that already has one!

Philbert
 

CR888

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I think when making a RW bar one needs to think what kind of cutting he intends to use it for when done and how much flex is acceptable for intended use. You can remove a lot of stock for a short limbing/cookie cutter without a problem. A longer felling bar, strength and minimal flex is far more important. IME its only when the bar is used horizontal that flex is noticed.
 

Jon1212

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I think when making a RW bar one needs to think what kind of cutting he intends to use it for when done and how much flex is acceptable for intended use. You can remove a lot of stock for a short limbing/cookie cutter without a problem. A longer felling bar, strength and minimal flex is far more important. IME its only when the bar is used horizontal that flex is noticed.

Great post.

I like the lightweight of my Oregon RW bar, and in bucking cuts, and limbing it handles very well, but as you mentioned, once a high flexing bar is turned horizontally, the flex seems to increase, or at least that is my perception.
This is why, after @junkman asked about measuring flex of the bar I was modifying, I realized that weight savings isn't everything.
I believe my first attempt turned out better than I had hoped it would. It's crude to a certain degree, but it has promise, and should be very functional.

I'm within 1 1/2 ounces of my Oregon RW, but with almost 33% less flex.
 

hseII

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Great post.

I like the lightweight of my Oregon RW bar, and in bucking cuts, and limbing it handles very well, but as you mentioned, once a high flexing bar is turned horizontally, the flex seems to increase, or at least that is my perception.
This is why, after @junkman asked about measuring flex of the bar I was modifying, I realized that weight savings isn't everything.
I believe my first attempt turned out better than I had hoped it would. It's crude to a certain degree, but it has promise, and should be very functional.

I'm within 1 1/2 ounces of my Oregon RW, but with almost 33% less flex.

I like your BA.
 
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