first build with what I have...

[Wonkydonkey]

Ok, they just deleted my new account. Same message (below). I had two short videos on chainsaw work. I am 100% convinced that it has to do with my posting them on this site. There was no problem before I did that. On both accounts. It's only when I embed the vids here that they delete my account... Wow....

(I'm going to try one more thing...deleting the embedded links in this thread and then appealing the suspension with ytube....)

Just a thought.... sometimes. They go off your IP address. So if you make a new account on the same computer with the same ip... it will get deleted... try change your ip..use a vpn . or make an account with your phone on a public WiFi ??

 

[Mastermind]

That’s a monster....... what did you do to it other than your mm meets the 461 pdf...

Same ol recipe I've been using since that saw come out.

 

[sonoransaw]

Meanwhile in OPE kindergarten class…. I’ve been using this saw every day and lovin it. Yesterday I ripped and noodled a bunch. This thing has power in the cut and is fun to use. Just need to get a decent bar and chain for it...

Been working on this next saw as sort of a side by side since they're basically the same. It was working, but was sluggish. Somehow even though the bore is smaller than the other saw, it’s listed as having a few more cc’s. Maybe it has a longer stroke. It’s a Jonsered cs3822, another little guy just for learnin how to do this stuff….

Vitals:
Compression 150 psi
Exhaust 112 (136 duration)
Intake/Strato 68 (112 duration)
Transfer 130 (100 duration)
Squish .030
Blowdown 18
Case Compression 68
Bore 39mm
Stock exhaust width 18.25mm = 46.8% of bore
Exhaust width 23.4mm = 60%
Exhaust width of 27.3mm = 70%

I found it interesting that the timing on the stratos and the intake was the same, which @Terry Syd suggested doing with the first saw. The squish isn’t optimal, but I thought the compression was high. The combustion chamber too is very different that the Poulan’s. It’s way flatter and seems to have significantly less volume. Maybe that all makes up for the poor squish measurement???

Set up the degree wheel and did the numbers. Did it all again to be sure.

Made a little port map.

My bro turned me another wooden dummy piston.

Yesterday I widened the exhaust out to about 65% and raised the roof about a mm...

 

[TX_Welder]

Keep up the good work, your giving me inspiration. I've got a little husky 350 that was a freebie and a poulan wild thing. The wild thing was my first saw. Think I got it when I was 14. 33 now and my chainsaw addiction has almost gotten as bad as my affinity for firearms.

 

[TX_Welder]

I should clarify, those aren't my only two saws. Just the two I'm going to start tinkering with first.

 

[sonoransaw]

Keep up the good work, your giving me inspiration. I've got a little husky 350 that was a freebie and a poulan wild thing. The wild thing was my first saw. Think I got it when I was 14. 33 now and my chainsaw addiction has almost gotten as bad as my affinity for firearms.

Thanks TX Welder.... I hope you dig into those saws. Can't think of a better way to learn. When you can mess with a saw that is working and then actually see how what you did makes a difference, it is so motivating. This forum is full of pros, but Randy's sure supportive of guys trying to learn. He told me to jump in and start a thread, so I did. I'm barely keeping my head above water, but I have no regrets. It's pushed me to learn like nothing else would have. I did a few simple mods on my brother's saw and he went from saying he wished he had bought a bigger saw to saying it was the best saw he'd ever used. That's empowering!

Ran my little saw this evening. It's buried in some dry wood here. For a 35cc I can't complain....

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks TX Welder.... I hope you dig into those saws. Can't think of a better way to learn. When you can mess with a saw that is working and then actually see how what you did makes a difference, it is so motivating. This forum is full of pros, but Randy's sure supportive of guys trying to learn. He told me to jump in and start a thread, so I did. I'm barely keeping my head above water, but I have no regrets. It's pushed me to learn like nothing else would have. I did a few simple mods on my brother's saw and he went from saying he wished he had bought a bigger saw to saying it was the best saw he'd ever used. That's empowering!

Ran my little saw this evening. It's buried in some dry wood here. For a 35cc I can't complain....

You’re doing a great job. It is very fun to learn this stuff and moreover get good results like you mentioned with your brothers saw.

You are correct about the stroke being the difference with reference to the Jonsered having a smaller bore but more displacement. There are many examples of saws with the same bore but with different displacement. Like the 272XP and 281XP, both 52mm bore but the different stroke yields different displacement, 72cc & 81cc. Longer stroke equals more displacement.

If my crappy memory serves me the formula is...

Bore (Squared) x Stroke x .7854
Then multiply the sum by .001 to move the decimal to the correct place and that is the displacement of the engine in cc’s.

 

[sonoransaw]

You’re doing a great job. It is very fun to learn this stuff and moreover get good results like you mentioned with your brothers saw.

You are correct about the stroke being the difference with reference to the Jonsered having a smaller bore but more displacement. There are many examples of saws with the same bore but with different displacement. Like the 272XP and 281XP, both 52mm bore but the different stroke yields different displacement, 72cc & 81cc. Longer stroke equals more displacement.

If my crappy memory serves me the formula is...

Bore (Squared) x Stroke x .7854
Then multiply the sum by .001 to move the decimal to the correct place and that is the displacement of the engine in cc’s.

Thanks @XP_Slinger... that clears up the displacement thing for me... and I appreciate the formula....

For some reason the alloy or whatever of this cylinder shows the fuel/air flow over the surface very clearly. It's helpful to see what's happening...

There was some marking around the intake and strato ports. I had no idea what it was. Then I read about aluminum transfer, something I didn't know about. Watched Randy's vids on removing that and some of it came off but some of the marking remained, especially around the intake. Looking closer the only conclusion I can come to is that the plating thins out there.

I studied the bottom transfer port area and felt some improvement could be made and did a little contouring.

 

[rogue60]

Thanks @XP_Slinger... that clears up the displacement thing for me... and I appreciate the formula....

For some reason the alloy or whatever of this cylinder shows the fuel/air flow over the surface very clearly. It's helpful to see what's happening...

There was some marking around the intake and strato ports. I had no idea what it was. Then I read about aluminum transfer, something I didn't know about. Watched Randy's vids on removing that and some of it came off but some of the marking remained, especially around the intake. Looking closer the only conclusion I can come to is that the plating thins out there.

I studied the bottom transfer port area and felt some improvement could be made and did a little contouring.

When the bearing/seal are in it will close that area off and make a window like in my pic.
I'd pay more attention to the window myself just my 2c I don't get into porting like the guy's on here.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks @XP_Slinger... that clears up the displacement thing for me... and I appreciate the formula....

For some reason the alloy or whatever of this cylinder shows the fuel/air flow over the surface very clearly. It's helpful to see what's happening...

There was some marking around the intake and strato ports. I had no idea what it was. Then I read about aluminum transfer, something I didn't know about. Watched Randy's vids on removing that and some of it came off but some of the marking remained, especially around the intake. Looking closer the only conclusion I can come to is that the plating thins out there.

I studied the bottom transfer port area and felt some improvement could be made and did a little contouring.

Can you feel anything with your fingernail where the light spots are?

 

[sonoransaw]

When the bearing/seal are in it will close that area off and make a window like in my pic.
I'd pay more attention to the window myself just my 2c I don't get into porting like the guy's on here.

Makes sense Rogue60, I'll go in there and do some more.

Can you feel anything with your fingernail where the light spots are?

Just barely.... It doesn't feel like anything is raised, just a slight change in the surface texture from the shiny plated part. I'll probably hit it again with the scotchbrite just to be sure.... it's only on the intake side, nothing on the exhaust side....

 

[sonoransaw]

XPSlinger, here's a better shot of the markings in the cylinder. I did some more sanding. I know for sure it's not aluminum transfer. The cylinder is husqvarna and I think I read they make a super thin plating. Anyway, I'm not going to worry about it...

Here's the exhaust taken out to 60%, four mm wider than stock....

And I did some more work on the bottom transfer area.... enough so that it'll either help or hurt....

 

[XP_Slinger]

XPSlinger, here's a better shot of the markings in the cylinder. I did some more sanding. I know for sure it's not aluminum transfer. The cylinder is husqvarna and I think I read they make a super thin plating. Anyway, I'm not going to worry about it...

Here's the exhaust taken out to 60%, four mm wider than stock....

And I did some more work on the bottom transfer area.... enough so that it'll either help or hurt....

Yep lots of bare aluminum around the intake and strato ports. Probably won’t live long before it scores the piston or loads the ring with aluminum.

Exhaust...roof looks pretty flat to my eye in the pic. Flat roofs flow great but you run the risk of snagging the ring in the port. If this saw is just for experimenting let r’ rip. Never know til you try

 

[sonoransaw]

Yep lots of bare aluminum around the intake and strato ports. Probably won’t live long before it scores the piston or loads the ring with aluminum.

Exhaust...roof looks pretty flat to my eye in the pic. Flat roofs flow great but you run the risk of snagging the ring in the port. If this saw is just for experimenting let r’ rip. Never know til you try

Thanks for the feedback.... Since I know I did not run this saw very long (I bought it new), I'll bet that aluminum was showing when it was still on the shelf.

If a ring snags, at least I'll know why ...

I'm going to advance the timing, put it back together and let r rip, like you said... It's a dispensable saw for testin and learnin....

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks for the feedback.... Since I know I did not run this saw very long (I bought it new), I'll bet that aluminum was showing when it was still on the shelf.

If a ring snags, at least I'll know why ...

I'm going to advance the timing, put it back together and let r rip, like you said... It's a dispensable saw for testin and learnin....

Right on. Looking forward to hearing how it does.

This is the only pic I have of an exhaust port I’ve done recently. Note the arch on the roof of the port. Keep in mind that as you widen the exhaust you increase risk of snagging the ring. That’s where an arched roof becomes more crucial. But I’m sure you’ve also noticed that even the factory port has an arch to it.

 

[sonoransaw]

Right on. Looking forward to hearing how it does.

This is the only pic I have of an exhaust port I’ve done recently. Note the arch on the roof of the port. Keep in mind that as you widen the exhaust you increase risk of snagging the ring. That’s where an arched roof becomes more crucial. But I’m sure you’ve also noticed that even the factory port has an arch to it.

View attachment 229172

Thanks for the pic, XPSlinger.... I see what you mean about the sloped roof. We'll see how my roof does with the ring. I went in and made sure I had a chamfer especially at the top of the roof.

Put the block back together and measured everything. Exhaust is two degrees higher and opened from 46 to 60% of bore. Squish measured at .023, taken at a couple places, which surprised me. Piston and squish band were well cleaned. I think a couple of things are at play. One, the original gasket material was really thick. The bead that I scraped off was solid and substantial, much more so than the poulan. This may or may not be part of it. The other factor, that I think was more influential, was that I sanded down the cylinder base (which I also did with the poulan but not as much). The bottom of the clamshell was embedded in the plastic of the chassis, obviously not meant to be easily removed, unlike the poulan.

With the poulan I reduced the squish a thousandth or two by sanding both mating surfaces (between cylinder and clamshell). That wasn't an option with the jonsered so I wasn't going to do anything, but then I went to remove the gasket material from the base of the cylinder. Like I said it was thick and there was this groove that it was down in. The only thing I could think to do was use a wire brush in a drill to get it all out. I didn't realize how soft the aluminum was and it gouged it pretty significantly even though it was just at drill speed. I ended up sanding a fair amount to get the gouges out. I'm sure that reduced the squish. I know that this is supposed to be a round joint to hold the rubber bearing case. But I felt with the poulan that there was some room for pressing that rubber and the same will hopefully be true of this jonsered. I've run the poulan btw a bunch every day (I really like it too).

Took the carb apart and cleaned it. Was thinking the diaphragm would be stiff, but it was nice and supple. I also advanced the timing a good third of the key. The one main difference I did from the poulan was to open up the bottom of the transfers as I posted above. Hoping to get this thing together today and give it a good run.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Squish measurements are most accurate directly above the wrist pin. If measured on the intake or exhaust side the piston will rock slightly and give you an inaccurate measurement.

Also, best to rotate engine with a drill to crush the solder multiple times. There is a very slight amount of spring back in the solder and crushing it just once will give you a slightly wider measurement.

 

[sonoransaw]

Squish measurements are most accurate directly above the wrist pin. If measured on the intake or exhaust side the piston will rock slightly and give you an inaccurate measurement.

Also, best to rotate engine with a drill to crush the solder multiple times. There is a very slight amount of spring back in the solder and crushing it just once will give you a slightly wider measurement.

Thanks, XPSlinger!....I measured at both 12 o'clock (exhaust side) and 9 o'clock (above wrist pin) so I feel good about that.

Fired her up....and at least she didn't blow!

My bar is mushroomed and my chain is crap.... where's my beer?....

I'm going out to the store to buy a new bar and chain. After going to all this work....

Here's a quick vid of initial fire up (with crap bar and chain).... sounds better anyway and definitely revs higher....

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks, XPSlinger!....I measured at both 12 o'clock (exhaust side) and 9 o'clock (above wrist pin) so I feel good about that.

Fired her up....and at least she didn't blow!

My bar is mushroomed and my chain is crap.... where's my beer?....

I'm going out to the store to buy a new bar and chain. After going to all this work....

Here's a quick vid of initial fire up (with crap bar and chain).... sounds better anyway and definitely revs higher....

I think it’s gonna run nice once tuned well and has a good chain. Nice work!

The sandals made me giggle lol. Was thinking I wish I could wear sandals in the winter then I remembered you’re in Arizona

 

[TX_Welder]

Sounds healthy!