MG porting
Pinnacle OPE Member
Thank you very much. And of course I don't have enough storage unit I clear out some space on my phone.lolI’ve been meaning to pass this manual on to you,,,
Thank you very much. And of course I don't have enough storage unit I clear out some space on my phone.lolI’ve been meaning to pass this manual on to you,,,
Lol. Yea I here you. So far I've got everything wrote down I'll have to thumb through it all of it and make it sound less complicated plus my spelling sucks. Lol.Yeah, just take it slow and do the testing. One carb at a time to keep track of your mods.
In particular, test the low end torque. That is, how hard you can lean on the saw and its' resistance to bogging. See if you can put it in a big piece of wood with a long bar and stop it, then pull the trigger and see if it comes off the bottom like a freight train.
When you get close to where you think you should be, stop modding and use the saw for a while to get more familiar with it, then do another mod. It is easy to 'overshoot' the mods if you are just running it for a few minutes each time. - Just cut some wood...
Once you get the low speed circuit working the way you want it, just tune the high speed circuit. Sounds easy, but I hope you bought a heap of welch plugs and have some patience...
I'm sure there would be other guys that would love to take advantage of all the work you are going to end up doing. Just post the final mods and save them weeks of work - LOL!
Lol.I don't think people will be bothered if you write about the drill size as .60 millimeter or .60 meelimeter.
The problem I have with them is hard toning and I'm still waiting on parts so I can't do any testing at this point the parts should be here this week. And just like the carbs on the early 660 kits the butterfly is not perfect like the OEM witch makes it not toon right at idle so I'm going to have to do something about that to.I was wondering what the initial probs was with these carbs. I could and should read it all again but I can’t just now.. was it you were Just improving them
This AM carb I got for my 044 is a b-tard to tune,, it’s so easy to be fat on the low side then when you get it somewhere near what you think is right,,ie it runs fine on tick over and at wot,
This is the prob I have, and was wondering if you found the same..if you open the throttle about a 1/4 to 1/2 way and hold it there it leans out and starts to die, as it does this if you blip the throttle it revs and all is fine.. or do you think I’ve a prob with the meatering diaphragm ?
I’ve played with the meatering leaver. But after a clutch spring let go,, I gave up for the day,, as I didn’t have the new oem springs that I brought with me.
Anyhow as it’s sunday today I will get a bit more time to play.
Yea, a 440 and 460 carb s/b the same, but different kits for Walbro and ZAMA.
I think most of the 044s had ZAMA and most of the 440s Walbro.
Sometimes 440 and 026 cylinders have a lip in the intake making the fuel puddle there. If you have a very very open muffler it makes the problem worse as well.Ear.... eye bin playin with the 044 this afternoon, as the rain came and stopped play elsewhere..
As you guys know I have a Am Walbro 440\460 carb on the err-044..
So after changing the pop off spring.. as this could be a prob.. I got one outta a 200t carb.. and I checked the meatering leaver height p.. but ...still no joy..
I still got ,,,fat and oily at tick over. But when I dial in the high and it revs just like an orgasm.. with a hot chick ..
But it beat me. Again. What the dam is wrong ...with this ?.Am carb .
I just could not tune the low.I had had enough of slipping the carb on and off.
So..I just went back to the oem Zamma..
Then when I gets home I get back into readin Terry Syd's posts about carbs and mods around the inter webs.. (AS). There were a few back and forth threads.. and links to others and hop here and threre.. then back where you started. .
Now after a few hard ciders,, my minds is telling me that terry said about ( this may be jumbled now but ...).
lean tickovers and how to play with the carb to inrich it,, it went on and on... I got a little lost...but if I got this right, it also said about flame front, fuel and timing. And how increasing fuel in the low end/tickover slows the burn rate, ie makes it rich.
Also somewhere, in a roundabout fashion, it said about timing, ie advancing it makes it rich at tickover.. as it slows the flame front.
So when you’ve advanced the timing..... it but the timing is retarded at tick over!! So it’s less retarded. Ie a little advanced
And I’ve stuck a carb on that is richer at tickover but runs fine at wot...,,!!!. So if I’ve said this right it’s going to be richer as I’ve advanced the timing..slower flame front...
So if I got it right I should have just played with the saw at std timing not at the 30thou it rips at now with the std zamma carb..
So the next time refit Walbro (AM) carb AND with THE std timing so then the low end tuning should be not pig fat rich and difficult...to tune. more like easy to tune the low end..
Well with cider goggles on , that’s how I see it..now
My carb probs maybe only similar to yours and not the same..