Am ms440 carbs

[MG porting]

I’ve been meaning to pass this manual on to you,,,

Thank you very much. And of course I don't have enough storage unit I clear out some space on my phone.lol

 

[MG porting]

Well all buttoned up flipping a down pore out side all night and going to continue all day today so hopefully some time tomorrow I'll put it in the saw tomorrow and see how she does.

 

[MG porting]

Well I put the carb in and she ran now on the low side of the carb it did infact wanted more fuel not much just a 1/4 turn more out so now toltole it is at 1 and 1/4 turns out which is fine now on the high side it is now 2 and 1/4 turns out which is better from that it was before which was darn near three got to say these AM carbs are not nearly as good as OEM we all know that but I still got some playing around with the carb I was running the AM spring in it so now I'm going to change it over to the OEM spring and see what happens but unfortunately while doing all this ended blowing out the guy on the starter so now I have to wait until next month to get that fixed uuggggg. So Terry Syd you think I'm on the right track?

 

[Terry Syd]

Yeah, just take it slow and do the testing. One carb at a time to keep track of your mods.

In particular, test the low end torque. That is, how hard you can lean on the saw and its' resistance to bogging. See if you can put it in a big piece of wood with a long bar and stop it, then pull the trigger and see if it comes off the bottom like a freight train.

When you get close to where you think you should be, stop modding and use the saw for a while to get more familiar with it, then do another mod. It is easy to 'overshoot' the mods if you are just running it for a few minutes each time. - Just cut some wood...

Once you get the low speed circuit working the way you want it, just tune the high speed circuit. Sounds easy, but I hope you bought a heap of welch plugs and have some patience...

I'm sure there would be other guys that would love to take advantage of all the work you are going to end up doing. Just post the final mods and save them weeks of work - LOL!

 

[MG porting]

Yeah, just take it slow and do the testing. One carb at a time to keep track of your mods.

In particular, test the low end torque. That is, how hard you can lean on the saw and its' resistance to bogging. See if you can put it in a big piece of wood with a long bar and stop it, then pull the trigger and see if it comes off the bottom like a freight train.

When you get close to where you think you should be, stop modding and use the saw for a while to get more familiar with it, then do another mod. It is easy to 'overshoot' the mods if you are just running it for a few minutes each time. - Just cut some wood...

Once you get the low speed circuit working the way you want it, just tune the high speed circuit. Sounds easy, but I hope you bought a heap of welch plugs and have some patience...

I'm sure there would be other guys that would love to take advantage of all the work you are going to end up doing. Just post the final mods and save them weeks of work - LOL!

Lol. Yea I here you. So far I've got everything wrote down I'll have to thumb through it all of it and make it sound less complicated plus my spelling sucks. Lol.

 

[Terry Syd]

I don't think people will be bothered if you write about the drill size as .60 millimeter or .60 meelimeter.

 

[MG porting]

I don't think people will be bothered if you write about the drill size as .60 millimeter or .60 meelimeter.

Lol.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Bumpidy bump.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I was wondering what the initial probs was with these carbs. I could and should read it all again but I can’t just now.. was it you were Just improving them

This AM carb I got for my 044 is a b-tard to tune,, it’s so easy to be fat on the low side then when you get it somewhere near what you think is right,,ie it runs fine on tick over and at wot,

This is the prob I have, and was wondering if you found the same..if you open the throttle about a 1/4 to 1/2 way and hold it there it leans out and starts to die, as it does this if you blip the throttle it revs and all is fine.. or do you think I’ve a prob with the meatering diaphragm ?

I’ve played with the meatering leaver. But after a clutch spring let go,, I gave up for the day,, as I didn’t have the new oem springs that I brought with me.

Anyhow as it’s sunday today I will get a bit more time to play.

 

[MustangMike]

The problems I encountered were sticking chokes and the saw just dying and refusing to re start. I modded the choke and fully rebuilt several of them, and when the same issues returned I just started replacing them. D Dave had a Walbro style carb built by ZAMA for about $25 (NLA) and I stocked up on them and stopped messing with the others, they were just not worth it.

If you did not live across the pond, I'd send a few to you.

 

[MG porting]

I was wondering what the initial probs was with these carbs. I could and should read it all again but I can’t just now.. was it you were Just improving them

This AM carb I got for my 044 is a b-tard to tune,, it’s so easy to be fat on the low side then when you get it somewhere near what you think is right,,ie it runs fine on tick over and at wot,

This is the prob I have, and was wondering if you found the same..if you open the throttle about a 1/4 to 1/2 way and hold it there it leans out and starts to die, as it does this if you blip the throttle it revs and all is fine.. or do you think I’ve a prob with the meatering diaphragm ?

I’ve played with the meatering leaver. But after a clutch spring let go,, I gave up for the day,, as I didn’t have the new oem springs that I brought with me.

Anyhow as it’s sunday today I will get a bit more time to play.

The problem I have with them is hard toning and I'm still waiting on parts so I can't do any testing at this point the parts should be here this week. And just like the carbs on the early 660 kits the butterfly is not perfect like the OEM witch makes it not toon right at idle so I'm going to have to do something about that to.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The problem Today was i took a packet of carb repair kits, and there was only one that was close enough to fit,,, but it was wrong

I'm gonna check if what I ordered is the same thing.. doh.. this is what I ordered, but it’s not for the 460... but for a 360\440
https://m.huztl.net/m-product-detail.html?goods_id=228989

But luckily enough, I ordered this when I brought the 460 carb.. but I did not take it with me today...
https://m.huztl.net/m-product-detail.html?goods_id=372705.

So back to the saga of carb tuning for another day

When I get the carb out again I will get some more pics.. as I only took one today.
Yes the gasket lifted off like it is.

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, a 440 and 460 carb s/b the same, but different kits for Walbro and ZAMA.

I think most of the 044s had ZAMA and most of the 440s Walbro.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yea, a 440 and 460 carb s/b the same, but different kits for Walbro and ZAMA.

I think most of the 044s had ZAMA and most of the 440s Walbro.

Thanks for that,, it completely slipped my mind, I think I ordered the zama when I got the saw as it had oem carb, and I ordered a Walbro when I got the 460 carb. Then must have mixed them up and took the wrong packet, I’m sure it will get put to use thou.

It was just a little annoying, but that’s life I guess ​

 

[Pincher]

I have also been struggling with the huztl 440 kit carb now that I finally got it together. Right now the idle is real finicky. When I get it to idle good enough to use, it will restart the 20" bar buried in oak. After a while it will act up and not stay running at idle. WOT is great.

Of the three kits (660, 372, and 440) this one has given me the most problems. All of the huztl carbs needed attention before they worked properly.

 

[MG porting]

Thus the reason why I'm doing the mods on the two carbs I have if I can remotely get one of them to run close to the OEM Walbro hd17a that I've got on the saw right now then I'll be able to fill everyone in by detail of what needs to be done but won't make any promises it can be a waste of time but I'm doing it so that way no buddy else has to unless it works then they can take what I did and try it for themselves.

 

[Pincher]

I haven't given up. I just had to set it on the back burner for now since the oiler quit working as well. The next tool up was the BFH if I kept working on it!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Ear.... eye bin playin with the 044 this afternoon, as the rain came and stopped play elsewhere..
As you guys know I have a Am Walbro 440\460 carb on the err-044..

So after changing the pop off spring.. as this could be a prob.. I got one outta a 200t carb.. and I checked the meatering leaver height p.. but ...still no joy..
I still got ,,,fat and oily at tick over. But when I dial in the high and it revs just like an orgasm.. with a hot chick ..

But it beat me. Again. What the dam is wrong ...with this ?.Am carb .
I just could not tune the low.I had had enough of slipping the carb on and off.
So..I just went back to the oem Zamma..

Then when I gets home I get back into readin Terry Syd's posts about carbs and mods around the inter webs.. (AS). There were a few back and forth threads.. and links to others and hop here and threre.. then back where you started. .

Now after a few hard ciders,, my minds is telling me that terry said about ( this may be jumbled now but ...).
lean tickovers and how to play with the carb to inrich it,, it went on and on... I got a little lost...but if I got this right, it also said about flame front, fuel and timing. And how increasing fuel in the low end/tickover slows the burn rate, ie makes it rich.

Also somewhere, in a roundabout fashion, it said about timing, ie advancing it makes it rich at tickover.. as it slows the flame front.
So when you’ve advanced the timing..... it but the timing is retarded at tick over!! So it’s less retarded. Ie a little advanced
And I’ve stuck a carb on that is richer at tickover but runs fine at wot...,,!!!. So if I’ve said this right it’s going to be richer as I’ve advanced the timing..slower flame front...

So if I got it right I should have just played with the saw at std timing not at the 30thou it rips at now with the std zamma carb..
So the next time refit Walbro (AM) carb AND with THE std timing so then the low end tuning should be not pig fat rich and difficult...to tune. more like easy to tune the low end..

Well with cider goggles on , that’s how I see it..now

My carb probs maybe only similar to yours and not the same..

 

[huskyboy]

Ear.... eye bin playin with the 044 this afternoon, as the rain came and stopped play elsewhere..
As you guys know I have a Am Walbro 440\460 carb on the err-044..

So after changing the pop off spring.. as this could be a prob.. I got one outta a 200t carb.. and I checked the meatering leaver height p.. but ...still no joy..
I still got ,,,fat and oily at tick over. But when I dial in the high and it revs just like an orgasm.. with a hot chick ..

But it beat me. Again. What the dam is wrong ...with this ?.Am carb .
I just could not tune the low.I had had enough of slipping the carb on and off.
So..I just went back to the oem Zamma..

Then when I gets home I get back into readin Terry Syd's posts about carbs and mods around the inter webs.. (AS). There were a few back and forth threads.. and links to others and hop here and threre.. then back where you started. .

Now after a few hard ciders,, my minds is telling me that terry said about ( this may be jumbled now but ...).
lean tickovers and how to play with the carb to inrich it,, it went on and on... I got a little lost...but if I got this right, it also said about flame front, fuel and timing. And how increasing fuel in the low end/tickover slows the burn rate, ie makes it rich.

Also somewhere, in a roundabout fashion, it said about timing, ie advancing it makes it rich at tickover.. as it slows the flame front.
So when you’ve advanced the timing..... it but the timing is retarded at tick over!! So it’s less retarded. Ie a little advanced
And I’ve stuck a carb on that is richer at tickover but runs fine at wot...,,!!!. So if I’ve said this right it’s going to be richer as I’ve advanced the timing..slower flame front...

So if I got it right I should have just played with the saw at std timing not at the 30thou it rips at now with the std zamma carb..
So the next time refit Walbro (AM) carb AND with THE std timing so then the low end tuning should be not pig fat rich and difficult...to tune. more like easy to tune the low end..

Well with cider goggles on , that’s how I see it..now

My carb probs maybe only similar to yours and not the same..

Sometimes 440 and 026 cylinders have a lip in the intake making the fuel puddle there. If you have a very very open muffler it makes the problem worse as well.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yes, thanks I deburred it while cleaning up the transfer, and blending in the lowers.

I also read the 026 thread about it loading up and dying... I thought that was my prob as well...and as well as the carb, and the boot, and a few other things.

But I could tune the zamma,and it would behave,, albeit a little pedantic but it did work and tickover .. but this AM 440\460 carb was worse than an unpaid hoe... fat, smoking and dribbling oil...

As I said another time, I will try std timing...and the Am walbro, and hopefully it will tune in the low and not be fat..oily....