All Things 288XP

[Woodwackr]

What is a good bar length for the 288? I run a 28 on my 390.

 

[Czed]

What is a good bar length for the 288? I run a 28 on my 390.

Same 28" if you need it
But i usually run 24" i have like 60 24" chains.
They were like 3.00 each last year from hipa

 

[Woodwackr]

Same 28" if you need it
But i usually run 24" i have like 60 24" chains.
They were like 3.00 each last year from hipa

I have plenty of bars and rolls of chain
I am looking for a used/refurbishable 60” for my 2100 project

 

[Woodwackr]

Well, tried one of Duke’s 288 oil pumps…won’t fit
At first I thought the thin o-ring just needed to seat. Nope., pulled it and still not fitting. Then noticed the little 6mm o-ring was doubled, and, the pin was a good 2mm proud. Fixed that and tried again. It was better but still wouldn’t seat flush, even without the thin o-ring. something isn’t lining up.
Measured the diameter of the section that seats into the bearing seat. Within a couple thousandths of oe and well under the bearing seat diameter.
Stumped.
Through the old one in…fits as it should.

At least the oiler gear fits, very snug, but fits

 

[Woodwackr]

Hopefully the Hyway clutch will work hen it shows up

 

[Woodwackr]

Was making rounds, locking doors, etc..
288 sitting on the bench…hm…not midnight yet…installed the old clutch, fueled it up, choke…popped on 4th, fired up . Did a little tuning…kept it under 10k.
Wife comes out to the shop…in her PJs…”really?”

 

[Woodwackr]

So, tried to get it tuned today...way too rich, hmm...cleaning carb again now.
Started out with the usual 1 turn out, h&l. Adjusted idle to around 2800.
Would idle for a while and die. Rev it up, fine. Settled to idle and dies.
Plug was black and lots of fuel in the cyl. Ok, too rich.
Dial in the L needle and it revs high then dies when fully in, duh...
When I initially rebuilt the carb there was a little corrosion on the shaft of the L needle, tip was ok. I cleaned that up with green Scotch pad. Looked in the hole...no visible corrosion. It is in the sonic now in carb cleaner...

This saw is not for the weak, lol. No decomp so starting is interesting with 190+ comp.

Oh, v&p were good, no leaks
Tilly s216B

I wonder if that little scratch is enough to cause the problem, hmm.
Can't feel it with fingernail but it shows up in macro.

2nd cleaning did pull some tiny bits of stuff...

Update...figured id do another v&p on the case, not just the carb...oops...fw side seal, didn't...it would only hold about 5psi
New seal...+ sealant...
Seal seat had a scratch but not all the way down so seated the seal a good MM lower than usually needed.
Crossing fingers...

Crap...still running rich.
May have to replace this carb...crap...

 

[Maintenance Chief]

So, tried to get it tuned today...way too rich, hmm...cleaning carb again now.
Started out with the usual 1 turn out, h&l. Adjusted idle to around 2800.
Would idle for a while and die. Rev it up, fine. Settled to idle and dies.
Plug was black and lots of fuel in the cyl. Ok, too rich.
Dial in the L needle and it revs high then dies when fully in, duh...
When I initially rebuilt the carb there was a little corrosion on the shaft of the L needle, tip was ok. I cleaned that up with green Scotch pad. Looked in the hole...no visible corrosion. It is in the sonic now in carb cleaner...

This saw is not for the weak, lol. No decomp so starting is interesting with 190+ comp.

Oh, v&p were good, no leaks
Tilly s216B

I wonder if that little scratch is enough to cause the problem, hmm.
Can't feel it with fingernail but it shows up in macro.

2nd cleaning did pull some tiny bits of stuff...

Update...figured id do another v&p on the case, not just the carb...oops...fw side seal, didn't...it would only hold about 5psi
New seal...+ sealant...
Seal seat had a scratch but not all the way down so seated the seal a good MM lower than usually needed.
Crossing fingers...

Crap...still running rich.
May have to replace this carb...crap...
View attachment 411640View attachment 411641

I haven't had any problems with the AM carb.

 

[Woodwackr]

It's more fun when they go back together and work correctly

I haven't had any problems with the AM carb.

whose did you get?

After some research I find this saw has a 181 carb, not one specific to the 281-288 series. It should be a HS228 or 283, not a 216. venturi are all the same according to Tilly spec sheets.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Carburetor For Husqvarna 281 288 Carb Carburettor OEM 503 28 04-01 from China manufacturer - Farmertec

Carburetor For Husqvarna 281 288 Carb Carburettor OEM 503 28 04-01 offered by China manufacturer Farmertec. Buy Carburetor For Husqvarna 281 288 Carb Carburettor OEM 503 28 04-01 directly with low price and high quality.

www.farmertec.com

 

[srcarr52]

So, tried to get it tuned today...way too rich, hmm...cleaning carb again now.
Started out with the usual 1 turn out, h&l. Adjusted idle to around 2800.
Would idle for a while and die. Rev it up, fine. Settled to idle and dies.
Plug was black and lots of fuel in the cyl. Ok, too rich.
Dial in the L needle and it revs high then dies when fully in, duh...
When I initially rebuilt the carb there was a little corrosion on the shaft of the L needle, tip was ok. I cleaned that up with green Scotch pad. Looked in the hole...no visible corrosion. It is in the sonic now in carb cleaner...

This saw is not for the weak, lol. No decomp so starting is interesting with 190+ comp.

Oh, v&p were good, no leaks
Tilly s216B

I wonder if that little scratch is enough to cause the problem, hmm.
Can't feel it with fingernail but it shows up in macro.

2nd cleaning did pull some tiny bits of stuff...

Update...figured id do another v&p on the case, not just the carb...oops...fw side seal, didn't...it would only hold about 5psi
New seal...+ sealant...
Seal seat had a scratch but not all the way down so seated the seal a good MM lower than usually needed.
Crossing fingers...

Crap...still running rich.
May have to replace this carb...crap...
View attachment 411640View attachment 411641

Sounds like the metering needle isn't seating. Have you checked the pop off?

 

[wcorey]

Overall pretty good. Feels solid. Color match is very close. Brake flag is dark grey vs black. The flag is somewhat different....at least the one I have.... The farmer tech is plastic above the chip guard vs cast oem. View attachment 411027View attachment 411028

I believe those flags with the triple cross bars were intended to go with the full wrap.

 

[Woodwackr]

Sounds like the metering needle isn't seating. Have you checked the pop off?

Was thinking that...it popped too early, imo, around 7psi, I think.
Will try another p test on the carb and get a number.

 

[Woodwackr]

I believe those flags with the triple cross bars were intended to go with the full wrap.

Correct, like the older metal flags...they are more forward. The AM flag I got is the wrong one for the wrap handle I have

 

[srcarr52]

Was think that...it popped too early, imo, around 7psi, I think.
Will try another p test on the carb and get a number.

Chances are that it's not reseating well and keeps leaking down causing your rich at idle condition.

 

[Woodwackr]

Chances are that it's not reseating well and keeps leaking down causing your rich at idle condition.

Could be a bad kit. I’ve been having good luck with this AM brand of late but maybe not this one

 

[srcarr52]

Could be a bad kit. I’ve been having good luck with this AM brand of late but maybe not this one

It's usually not the needles fault. It's the metering lever kicking it to one side or the seat has a little corrosion. You can usually fix the seat by polishing it with a the shaft of a q-tip and some whitening tooth paste.

 

[Woodwackr]

It's usually not the needles fault. It's the metering lever kicking it to one side or the seat has a little corrosion. You can usually fix the seat by polishing it with a the shaft of a q-tip and some whitening tooth paste.

Air leak is definitely from the H & L needles, or, more likely their seats and shafts.
I tried a set of needles from a 224...same parts...and the leak wasn't as bad but still pisses air. It does hold vac, -10psi, with the donor needles. Original needles wouldn't hold vac. This is with needles open 1 turn. Closed, it holds pressure.
Looks like damage to the H seat.

Bore scope shows corrosion in the L channel and more damage to the H side.
Looks like this carb is toast

 

[Woodwackr]

I needed some parts for a spare 136c for a 2100 so not a total loss

 

[Woodwackr]

Carburetor For Husqvarna 281 288 Carb Carburettor OEM 503 28 04-01 from China manufacturer - Farmertec

Carburetor For Husqvarna 281 288 Carb Carburettor OEM 503 28 04-01 offered by China manufacturer Farmertec. Buy Carburetor For Husqvarna 281 288 Carb Carburettor OEM 503 28 04-01 directly with low price and high quality.

www.farmertec.com

$12?
So, allowing for 4x middlemen markup, that thing must have left China costing around $.50