394XP - Work Saw Rebuild

[chilipeppermaniac]

The 394 didn't use an exhaust gasket. If you want one, you have to purchase the gasket for the 395.

The heat shield acted as a gasket in the 394.

Interesting.

I will likely still add one. Still trying to picture a heat shield during my muffler removal and reinstall. It did not have one of those either.

 

[huskihl]

Interesting.

I will likely still add one. Still trying to picture a heat shield during my muffler removal and reinstall. It did not have one of those either.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

View attachment 399583

Definitely no Heat Shield or gasket. All I did was slide muffler off the bolts and then slide the bolts off the grooved U shaped cutouts in the cylinder.

 

[davidwyby]

I like 2 gaskets, heat shield sammich

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

I like 2 gaskets, heat shield sammich

I pondered the pro's and any cons of doing this myself. Anyone know any reasons why Husqvarna went with just heat shield on the 394 as posted above, and then gasket without heat shield on the 395's?

 

[huskihl]

I pondered the pro's and any cons of doing this myself. Anyone know any reasons why Husqvarna went with just heat shield on the 394 as posted above, and then gasket without heat shield on the 395's?

I believe they want the heat shield against the cylinder in order to wick away some of the heat from the exhaust flange. And then they found the gasket insulates heat from the muffler from getting to the plate.

The 395 uses both the cooling plate and a gasket

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Thanks huskihl,

I totally look forward to being able to use this saw as an OL Faithful type tool from my tool shed.
All my life I had to "make do." Hoping to put all the knowledge I have gained in the past 5 or so years about saws and small engines to make this saw and my others into dependable and super running examples of how they were designed to run.

Somehow, with all my reading about Husqvarna's, the 372, 394 and similar models are some of the best they ever made.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

FYI, when I bought my 394 off a guy last night, he told me it was likely the wire that had his Kill switch to permanently ON. He said to just pull out the choke to kill the saw.

I decided to check for shorts in the wire and the blade connector was off the wire inside the shrink tubing.
I soldered in a new connector. Still not killing the saw. I wasn't sure if it was wired right as I got it either, but I think it is right judging by this pic from the first page. I may just need a new switch plus possibly a short in the wire under the pull start. I need to put an ohm meter on these.

I went ahead and checked continuity on the switch wire that goes from the blade on the coil to the blade on the Stop switch. Good to go there.
Then I popped out the switch which I tweaked the insides of the other day, I get the beep of continuity then no sound when switched.. So apparently the switch should work the next time I fire up the saw.

So far, I suspected the disconnected female end that I soldered back on, was the culprit.
To Be Cont.

 

[Moparmyway]

I went ahead and checked continuity on the switch wire that goes from the blade on the coil to the blade on the Stop switch. Good to go there.
Then I popped out the switch which I tweaked the insides of the other day, I get the beep of continuity then no sound when switched.. So apparently the switch should work the next time I fire up the saw.

So far, I suspected the disconnected female end that I soldered back on, was the culprit.
To Be Cont.

It should have continuity when the switch is in the off position and no continuity when the switch is in the on position

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

It should have continuity when the switch is in the off position and no continuity when the switch is in the on position

Right. which makes sense as I learned how the switch is built inside with the spring metal contacts, and when the slider either permits or breaks contact depending on the position.

PS. I bought a spare switch to have on hand in the future. I also took a look at the magneto and coil to see if they needed cleaning up, plus checked the gap. All looked good there. I ran out of daylight and time yesterday so will be pulling the plug to do a visual and see spark later. Nothing could be easy. The scrench the seller gave me was too small to fit the spark plug and my other ones were in my trailer. I was due elsewhere otherwise I would have gone in my 044 case to get it.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Here is another not new to saws, but "newbie" to Husqvarna saws question.
About the choke. Obviously full out is full choke. But is there a partial position once it pops that I should push the choke into, to finish the starting process?

I know this was the gist of the method in starting up my Echo string trimmers and Stihl Saws.

 

[huskihl]

Here is another not new to saws, but "newbie" to Husqvarna saws question.
About the choke. Obviously full out is full choke. But is there a partial position once it pops that I should push the choke into, to finish the starting process?

I know this was the gist of the method in starting up my Echo string trimmers and Stihl Saws.

Pulling the choke all the way out sets the high idle and closes the choke, just like other saws. Pushing the choke in opens the choke but leaves the high idle on. Once you tap the throttle, it returns down to idle