Thanks Joe, but I won’t be building that one up for a little while. I have to let my bank account cool off from the 254 and I’m going to build my 281 before I get to the 262 also. When I get started on it I’ll get in contact with you if you still have it.
Looks good. @Termitebuffet has a way of bringing some of the luster back on oxidized plastics. Perhaps he will chime in with his Norf Kackalacki Giant Midget, plastics restoration regimen....More parts trickling in, got my gasket set and more importantly the recoil. Thanks @Jon1212
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I thought you soaked 'em in corn liquor first, or was that to drink while sanding the plastics?
I’ve used fusion plastic paint before and I was impressed. It’s still stuck on the air box of my old 350X. I applied it about 15 years ago now. I think I’ll go that route, my top cover is Stained pretty deep so it’s not just the oxidation that needs to come off.
) 
And there’s your arm twisting paid back @XP_Slinger lolWhat you have there is a real good score. Beyond what you need for the 254, the 262 top cover is golden. All of the top covers for this chassis are NLA. (yeah, Dustin got the last 257 cover............that Husky has.
Of the 3 saws in this family, the 254 is the best supported at the moment. There are still a small number of OEM 254 top ends available. Nothing left on the 257 or 262, other than pistons. And the fact that there are a few parts that are shared with the 51/55 also helps. (Top handle, muffler, fuel tank.)
Looking at the carcass in the pic, 262 fuel tanks are NLA, but a 51/55 tank can be used along with 254/257 mounts. So............it does appear that a 262 build is in your future like Steve says.
And another big plus I see in that pic there are those carb bolts sitting on that carcass! Those sleeved carb bolts are used on the 254/257/262 AND on the whole 242 family, and they are NLA. The 262 intake blocks are still available and I have a drawer full of them, so yes a 262 build thread is now expected here after you complete the 254.
Mocked up the 262 top cover and it’s only 3/8” taller than the 254 cover. Doesn’t sound like much but it’s just tall enough that my knuckle hits the cover if I rotate my hand. Another thing I noticed was I would need the 262 intake partition because the cover isn’t shaped the same in that area. Could probably trim the 262 cover to make it fit the 254 partition but I don’t like hacking stuff up if I don’t have to. I’ll definitely use the 262 cover, just won’t be right away. Sorry Joe, @Onan18 I’ll be keeping it. Mainly for when I build that 262
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When Bob speaks, we listen
Thanks for the info Bob. I was also happy to see those special carb screws still on the chassis, I learned how valuable they are in your Saw college video on this series of saw. Thanks for reaffirming that my idea for using the 262 cover on the 254 was stupid. Sometimes “pretty” parts cause me to consider doing things that shouldn’t be done and that was one of them.What you have there is a real good score. Beyond what you need for the 254, the 262 top cover is golden. All of the top covers for this chassis are NLA. (yeah, Dustin got the last 257 cover............that Husky has.
Of the 3 saws in this family, the 254 is the best supported at the moment. There are still a small number of OEM 254 top ends available. Nothing left on the 257 or 262, other than pistons. And the fact that there are a few parts that are shared with the 51/55 also helps. (Top handle, muffler, fuel tank.)
Looking at the carcass in the pic, 262 fuel tanks are NLA, but a 51/55 tank can be used along with 254/257 mounts. So............it does appear that a 262 build is in your future like Steve says.
And another big plus I see in that pic there are those carb bolts sitting on that carcass! Those sleeved carb bolts are used on the 254/257/262 AND on the whole 242 family, and they are NLA. The 262 intake blocks are still available and I have a drawer full of them, so yes a 262 build thread is now expected here after you complete the 254.
When Bob speaks, we listen
Yup Joe speaks truth on this for sure. There’s a few guys on here that are in a league of their own when it comes to knowledge & experience with saws, Bob and Tor are in the top 1% of that tier at minimum.
Again thanks for providing some more info. You won’t spark a chain debate with me, I’m pretty indifferent when it comes to pitch on smaller saws. My saw has a very lightly used .325 drum and rim on it so I’m going to stick with it.Not sure if I have any 254 deflectors or not, but don't sweat it. It's not a big deal to have it on there anyway. Those plates weren't on most of the 200 series saws until halfway or so through the models runs. So, there's plenty of saws that never had them at all.
I can't say if the KS cylinder is better or not. Or with and without the deco is another one. Sometimes stuff just gets labeled better because it's less common.
Couple things on that 254 if you are still hunting parts. There were some differences on the starter side between the early saws and the later saws with the air injection. The left side of the crankcase was actually different, along with the air conductor. But the early "small decal" starter used a different pulley that the later "large decal" starter which is deeper. Either starter works on any saw, but you can't mix the internal parts.
I think 254's run better with .325, which is how I have mine set up. Not saying 3/8 is bad, (and don't want to ignite that debate here), but I like 'em with .325. But the small spline drum is NLA from Husky. Not sure if Oregon still has one or not. So, if a drum needs to be replaced then 3/8 might be the only option for a guy.
You guys KNOW we are going to have to have a 200 series fest at Walt's when the weather breaks, right?
