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036 oiler nightmare

Discussion in 'Chainsaws' started by MattG, Dec 29, 2017.

  1. MattG

    MattG Chainosaurus Rex

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    I got bored this morning and decided to investigate why the 036 I picked up this summer, whilst generally being nice and clean, was getting more oil on the floor than on the chain. Nothing could have prepared me for what would be revealed as I pulled things off....

    Check out the groovy silvery glitter finish

    2017-12-29 12.24.09.jpg
    So clearly the cuts in the pipe at the outlet is where it was taking a pi$$

    2017-12-29 12.24.42.jpg

    I was also wondering why the oilworm drive (see top right) seem to be separate as soon as I got the clutch off?

    Not to be forgotten, a brand new clutch (though not OEM :() with very sexy mismatched springs:

    2017-12-29 12.25.21.jpg

    Buying saws from ebay is such an adventure, on my side of the pond!!
     
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  2. MattG

    MattG Chainosaurus Rex

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    Anyway so I'm wondering what parts to order. The pump is very productive still so perhaps I'll just get by with a new pipe, and clutch springs?

    FWIW heres close up of the oiler

    2017-12-29 12.50.00.jpg

    2017-12-29 12.50.24.jpg
    I know the pump looks like it took a bad hit, but I guessing I could get by keeping it.

    Should I change o-rings while I have it out?


    Also just looking at an IPL

    upload_2017-12-29_13-26-29.png
    and I must admit I couldn't see the part 11 (washer) when I was in the workshop.

    Anyway what stuff do you guys think I should change out / get by leaving etc. etc.?
     
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  3. drf256

    drf256 Dr. Richard Cranium (“RC” to Muh pals)

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    There's 2 clutch styles, old and new.

    One uses a large washer behind the clutch and one doesn't, though I can't tell one from the other.

    A mismatch or lack of a washer here may be your issue.

    Also, I don't see #11. Assembly should be bearing, seal, washer, sleeve, pump, wormgear. I believe I see your seal under the sleeve and not the washer.
     
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  4. drf256

    drf256 Dr. Richard Cranium (“RC” to Muh pals)

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    The pump is likely fine, your wormgear is likely toast.

    The oilline installation isn't much fun. The OEM line kits usually supply enough for 2 jobs. Remember to take the spring out of the existing line and save it for future use.

    1/4" airbrake line and trumpets work fine as a substitute here. You'll need your old spring.

    Go to a relatively sound proof area to do the job, so the cussing can't be heard by too many.

    Oil the outer line and push it through from the outside. Leave slack. Push spring in end going on pump. A drop of oil on tip of pump barb. Warm end of line, don't melt it, push barb into it. When all is cool, push pump in place as you pull on outer slack of line. Figure out where square cut needs to be, pull extra line out, make cut, pull line back in by pushing line back into slot. Put trumpet in all the way, then flare it.

    It's really that simple.

    There are no O rings to change here.
     
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  5. Milkman31

    Milkman31 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I think your biggest problem is with the sprocket bearing. Measure yours if it’s the 13mm I would find the 16mm drum and bearing to solve the problem. I’ve got a 036 that had done the same thing as yours and that was my problem. The bearing wore out and allowed the drum to cut into the oil pump. And got into the crank where the needle bearing is supposed to be. I found all my parts from a local saw shop on a parts saw to save the day!
     
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  6. Duane(Pa)

    Duane(Pa) It's the chain...

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    I am so glad Doc is here! Save me all that typing... I would try to save the OE pump before I put some asian replacement on there. If you tear it apart and douse it with carb cleaner, it will be apparent if it can be saved. Good thread!
     
  7. MattG

    MattG Chainosaurus Rex

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    I definitely need time to regroup before I do this repair.

    Unfortunately the existing spring is toast. Don't ask. Maybe figured it had to die, as I wrestled the pipe off, IDK, something had already worn into the outlet anyway.

    I am hoping that if I buy

    upload_2017-12-29_14-51-20.png

    the part numbered 1124 007 1010, then maybe I'll get all I need.

    Sorry to be stupid, but I'm away from the saw so I'm gonna now, and measure mine later. When you say 13mm or 16mm do you the outer diameter of the bearing?

    Anyway I'll catch up on this thread in a day or so.......I've got a friend's 200T stop switch problem to look at now :(
     
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  8. nohoff

    nohoff professional flusher

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    This clutch need the big washer between Clutch and wormgear. The washer is there to prevent a broken spring killing your oilpump.
    Clutch without the washers look a bit like a MS 200 Clutch with those metal sheets at the springs. s-l1600.jpg
    Thats the clutch that has to be mounted without the washer.

    You can see part 11 on the picture #1.
    The part 14 is on the crank and right behind it you see the washer.
    Just get the oil line set and a new wormgear.
    Then check the drum bearing and everything will be fine.
     
  9. Milkman31

    Milkman31 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Yes the o/d is what you need to measure.
     
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  10. trooney

    trooney Admitted Woodaholic

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    I too saw the part #11 on the saw. You can see from the ipl which clutch fits which. Its confusing at first until you get used to the way Stihl produces their literature.
     
  11. trooney

    trooney Admitted Woodaholic

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    And yes, put 3 new springs on there, not expensive to do
     
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  12. trooney

    trooney Admitted Woodaholic

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    I think the winged clutch does not need a washer behind it. The ipl shows a washer behnd a clutch with just a horseshoe type clip, not one with wings. Might be wrong but I think I ran nto that problem on my 064 where the early ones had winged clutches and if you put a washer behind it the eclip was almost impossible to get on the crankshaft. Without it it just slipped on.
     
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  13. trooney

    trooney Admitted Woodaholic

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    Yeah, the ipl for an 034 shows the winged clips on the shoes without the washer.
     
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  14. Homemade

    Homemade Pinnacle OPE Member

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    When going threw my o36, I replaced the o rings #5, and #9. Cheep insurance. I think it was less then $5 for both.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  15. raumati01

    raumati01 Super OPE Member

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    Trying to install the oil line on those or an 064 is like pushing wet spaghetti up a cats butt.
     
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  16. trooney

    trooney Admitted Woodaholic

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    Try it on an 084, worse yet!! Lol
     
  17. angelo c

    angelo c Larger Member

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    IF I remember right Randy @Mastermind has a procedure he follows as well as Mike @Canadian farm boy . Not sure if they are the same or not but....

    and Yes I have one to do and have been avoiding it for months. so Im watching.....and delaying....
     
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  18. Canadian farm boy

    Canadian farm boy 10,000 "likes" and still a fart knocker.

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    I do it basically the exact same way that drf256 does.
    Lots of lube, lots of patience and a touch of heat will usually do the trick.
     
  19. Basher

    Basher Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Heat is your friend,I have never dreaded installing the oil lines on any Stihl saw. Try putting the rubber hose on over the front handle, even with the comp air and dish soap its a job that will make you sweat.
     
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  20. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    I think Randy drills the hole in the saw sometimes, and D Dave has the kits. Still gotta do the one on my 034, not looking forward to it. Likely the reason that saw is in a box in the shed!
     
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