MattG
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036 oiler nightmare
- Thread starter MattG
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MattG
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That's the big problem with youtube clips, 100s of versions of vids of people doing the easy stuff!!
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I would have.... but the line was not included in my kit.
I agree with the problem of youtube. ...always the important part gets cut out or looked over. Sorry folks.
Based on the annoyance that this kit was....I'm not planning on revisiting it.
I agree with the problem of youtube. ...always the important part gets cut out or looked over. Sorry folks.
Based on the annoyance that this kit was....I'm not planning on revisiting it.
MattG
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What do you mean, Matt? That huztl 440 you did?
Cracker Boy
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Same oil kit gos on 064 there a *b-word
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The 440 kit might have been ok if it wasn't for that stupid bearing being too thick and throwing the whole thing off
I think the 360 kit was just a pain for a first timer...
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@Canadian farm boy think you could document the line installation in your OH-SIX-4?
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Maybe once I get to assembling that saw. Lol.
I have a 034 here that needs a new oil pump that I'll probably take a few pictures of
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Probably not on the 034 or 064. I think they'll oil plenty for the size bars they'll run.
PogoInTheWoods
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I've done several of these oil line replacements using the 1124-007-1010 kit. The business about drilling a pair o' pliers to get the hose over the pump barb is insane. So is the modified screwdriver deal for inserting the brass trumpet piece into the end of the line.
And I've done these from both ends. Sort of a toss up, but I think it's easiest to get the trumpet end squared away first using a little heat. Then use a punch to tap the trumpet end into the case channel, even enlarging the channel slightly with a drill bit to make it a little easier if you like. The pump end is where the real fun starts and the only way to do it easily is with a heat gun. Heat the hose a little but heat the pump a lot. The hose will flat out melt if you get it too hot by itself but will get pliable enough to slide over the barb fairly easily with just a little heat if the barb is also heated up pretty good.
All that stated, I just did one a week or so ago using a brand new OEM line kit and it was a disaster due to the line being even more super ridgid than any I've gotten before. It just melted into an unusable mess from the initial blast of the heat gun like heat shrink. Didn't even attempt a second shot at it with the remaining piece of line. Happened to have an old piece of impulse line handy that was much more cooperative and used a roll pin for the insert at the delivery end. Took all of five minutes. Should have just gone that route in the first place! The internal spring is a must for the bend just before the pump barb for the ridgid line or it will most likely kink otherwise. Using a more flexible line like the Stihl R3 impulse hose shouldn't need it. And if the line is cut to the correct length you can get it on the pump barb with the pump not yet in the installed position. It'll just barely make it over the crank after the line is in place unless the line is too short.
Who needs a video for this, anyway? LOL
Happy cussing!
And I've done these from both ends. Sort of a toss up, but I think it's easiest to get the trumpet end squared away first using a little heat. Then use a punch to tap the trumpet end into the case channel, even enlarging the channel slightly with a drill bit to make it a little easier if you like. The pump end is where the real fun starts and the only way to do it easily is with a heat gun. Heat the hose a little but heat the pump a lot. The hose will flat out melt if you get it too hot by itself but will get pliable enough to slide over the barb fairly easily with just a little heat if the barb is also heated up pretty good.
All that stated, I just did one a week or so ago using a brand new OEM line kit and it was a disaster due to the line being even more super ridgid than any I've gotten before. It just melted into an unusable mess from the initial blast of the heat gun like heat shrink. Didn't even attempt a second shot at it with the remaining piece of line. Happened to have an old piece of impulse line handy that was much more cooperative and used a roll pin for the insert at the delivery end. Took all of five minutes. Should have just gone that route in the first place! The internal spring is a must for the bend just before the pump barb for the ridgid line or it will most likely kink otherwise. Using a more flexible line like the Stihl R3 impulse hose shouldn't need it. And if the line is cut to the correct length you can get it on the pump barb with the pump not yet in the installed position. It'll just barely make it over the crank after the line is in place unless the line is too short.
Who needs a video for this, anyway? LOL
Happy cussing!
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yup, now i'm glad I didn't do it lol
MattG
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Me! me! me!
MattG
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For the heating, I'm gonna soak in boiling water. Well back in the day, we resorted to pouring boiling water on the tyres of motorbikes to install out in the cold
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A few say boiling water is the ticket on these. Perfect temp. But...
The hose has to be pushed in from the outside. Gonna make dipping in boiling water kinda tough.
Heating the barb and hose does sound awfully smart. The metal will retain the heat better than the rubber/plastic and should keep what’s being fed onto it pliable.
With the spring installed, grabbing the tube with a normal set of pliers shouldn’t allow it to collapse.
If you think this is tough, try it on an 026 with a plastic barbed pump. Snap goes the barb, and the oil pump.
The hose has to be pushed in from the outside. Gonna make dipping in boiling water kinda tough.
Heating the barb and hose does sound awfully smart. The metal will retain the heat better than the rubber/plastic and should keep what’s being fed onto it pliable.
With the spring installed, grabbing the tube with a normal set of pliers shouldn’t allow it to collapse.
If you think this is tough, try it on an 026 with a plastic barbed pump. Snap goes the barb, and the oil pump.
Dustin4185
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I did one on a friends 026. It had the metal pump, so I made the pliers and heated the barb. Local dealer sold me some sort of fuel/impulse line that wasn't nearly as stiff as the line I took off. Worked like a charm. It was Stihl line and what they use to replace most of them with.
MattG
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I'm suspicious of warming the barb since that's going make the metal expand (perhaps not by much, but it's not really the direction I want to go.)
I'd planned on doing the line-on-pump bit first with the pump in a padded vice and the freshly boiled water in a pan nearby.
I was also thinking of outwitting this arrangement of metal+rubber in an additional manner. My pump barb will need dressing first, I mean it's been burred by war wounds already, right? So I will continue to dress it until I can fit the pipe without the help of the Special Forces. I mean yeah, it's got withstand some oil pressure, but lets not be silly right?
I was then thinking doing the trumpet flare thing or whatever later. Not given this a great deal of thought yet, so any explanation here would be great. Don't stihl pre-flare the pipe first?
This could well be a case of disregarding the instructions entirely, and just getting the c**t fixed in whatever way seems the most reasonable.
Finally is there any need to get the spring on over the barb? Or is it just the pipe you put on the barb? I mean the springs only purpose in this is to maintain the pipe's circular cross section in the bend anyways.....
I'd planned on doing the line-on-pump bit first with the pump in a padded vice and the freshly boiled water in a pan nearby.
I was also thinking of outwitting this arrangement of metal+rubber in an additional manner. My pump barb will need dressing first, I mean it's been burred by war wounds already, right? So I will continue to dress it until I can fit the pipe without the help of the Special Forces. I mean yeah, it's got withstand some oil pressure, but lets not be silly right?
I was then thinking doing the trumpet flare thing or whatever later. Not given this a great deal of thought yet, so any explanation here would be great. Don't stihl pre-flare the pipe first?
This could well be a case of disregarding the instructions entirely, and just getting the c**t fixed in whatever way seems the most reasonable.
Finally is there any need to get the spring on over the barb? Or is it just the pipe you put on the barb? I mean the springs only purpose in this is to maintain the pipe's circular cross section in the bend anyways.....
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