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how does this sound?

sonoransaw

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I've just recently emerged from a dark dark place. I have five chainsaws that I successively bought, abused, and stuck in the shed over the years. Now that I have seen some light, I'm trying to redeem myself....One of my project saws is this little Jonsered. I had to order a carb adjusting tool for it and finally got it running decently. I loved this saw in its prime, and I love it again now that it is revived....I just wanted you experienced pros here to let me know if it sounds like the carb is properly adjusted. I haven't exactly "modded" the muffler yet, but I did take off the front deflector plate and spark screen. Just doing that had noticeable effect. Thanks for any input....(I'm afraid of burning up a saw....I watched a bunch of videos on adjusting the carb, but it all left me a bit confused. Some say adjust H first, some say L first. I end up trying to do H first and put the saw into wood while I do it. Then I adjust the idle with the L screw. I really don't know what to do with the Idle screw...)

 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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Hard to tell. Was it fully warmed up in the vid?
Make sure that it's warm when you set it up too and with I clean filter.
The chain is still jumping ahead.
May be because it's not warm?
How did you set up your low?
It could possibly go back an 1/8 anti clockwise. It will lower your throttle revs too.
Anyway, I always open my throttle screw first with a free moving chain (like yours)
Then I turn it up until it goes into a full race. Low jet is finding the sweet spot where it runs smoothest and fastest then back off 1/4 turn anti clockwise and set throttle.


If it hesitates and/or is slow to rev up off the line then it's a classic sign of being lean on the low ( too far clockwise)
When you think you are in the best spot then it should consistently start first pull. ( unless other issues) I do the ol start up, shut off test about 4 times in a row. (Again! testing for a lean low condition)

This condition with become worse as the saw gets hotter (smaller saws seem more sensitive to this) some smaller saws may be sluggish naturally as well?

Here is trick of mine is order to get a more accurate read on throttle response.
You are not holding the trigger in this case.
I just let the saw cradle on my middle one or two fingers. Now the right hand I go flat fingers on the trigger lock and a quick throttle punch with thumb. There is no interference that way plus I can really fine tune the low.

You got it all^^^ check.
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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I looked at the vid a bit better.
If all else is good on the saw and it was warmed up then the low has got to go back. I noticed it stayed racing up on its own for a bit. A venting issue would keep racing until it started coughing out and a small air leak would likely take a fair bit of heat to open up. Manual check throttle is going back all the way with finger.

Good luck and stay the F* out of those dark places.
 

angelo c

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Glad to see you finding some light in your life.
You're gonna have to piss rev that sumbeech a bit before I can hear it ...sounds a little lean to me but it ain't warmed up enough or tached high enough to tell if "High" is in too far. Also need to see how it comes off idle too.
See (Piss rev 101)
 

Marshy

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The saw hangs when returning to idle. That's typically a lean low screw but the idle screw might just be in a tad too far also or a combination of both. I'd start with backing out the idle screw an 1/8th of a turn and see how it reacts. If it still hangs then add more fuel to the low screw and check throttle response. As mentioned by others, make sure the saw is fully warmed up.
 

sonoransaw

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Thanks for the tips. I'll fiddle with it some more using the suggestions given...

WBF, it was a little warm but probably not completely warmed up. I'll do the throttle check.

Angelo, I'll read up on piss revving...dang whole new language I'm learnin....
 

Wonkydonkey

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What’s all the stay the fudge out of these dark places...?

And glad to see your finding some light ?


Pm me if you think someone is looking in on us :2guns:
 

CJ Brown

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Hard to tell. Was it fully warmed up in the vid?
Make sure that it's warm when you set it up too and with I clean filter.
The chain is still jumping ahead.
May be because it's not warm?
How did you set up your low?
It could possibly go back an 1/8 anti clockwise. It will lower your throttle revs too.
Anyway, I always open my throttle screw first with a free moving chain (like yours)
Then I turn it up until it goes into a full race. Low jet is finding the sweet spot where it runs smoothest and fastest then back off 1/4 turn anti clockwise and set throttle.


If it hesitates and/or is slow to rev up off the line then it's a classic sign of being lean on the low ( too far clockwise)
When you think you are in the best spot then it should consistently start first pull. ( unless other issues) I do the ol start up, shut off test about 4 times in a row. (Again! testing for a lean low condition)

This condition with become worse as the saw gets hotter (smaller saws seem more sensitive to this) some smaller saws may be sluggish naturally as well?

Here is trick of mine is order to get a more accurate read on throttle response.
You are not holding the trigger in this case.
I just let the saw cradle on my middle one or two fingers. Now the right hand I go flat fingers on the trigger lock and a quick throttle punch with thumb. There is no interference that way plus I can really fine tune the low.

You got it all^^^ check.
I think we need a vid of this "two finger" cradle technique. I have a 2 finger technique as well, but I've never tried it on a chainsaw.:encama:
 

smokey7

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After with others that is is likely a bit lean and fast on the idle low speed adjustment. Can't tell if the high is too lean without a proper piss rev
 

sonoransaw

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Got some more video....Adjusted a little to get the chain stopped at idle...Hopefully this revving is pissy enough...Let me know....And does it sound like it's adjusted right? Thanks!

 

angelo c

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Ok...your "piss revving" is improving ...still needs some finish work....but very close.....think of it as "air guitar" with an "Angus Young" solo

Bending a little at the knees....raising the tip of the saw in the air (VICTORY IS MINE.) style

Also grinning like a thirteen year old that just touched his first "female parts" helps too. Some might call it a "chit eating grin"



So back to the "tuning" thing....your saw is "cleaning up" in the cut nice....that's good...that's what you want to hear. Some 4 stroking....then the clean up in the wood.
 

sonoransaw

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Good to hear.....knew my high school band days would pay off sometime....(those 80's were fun)....

(Wonder if you can tell someone's age just by how he holds his chainsaw when he piss revs...)
 

smokey7

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I assume you opened up your low speed to lower your idle?? These saws are a pain to tune I think. They require a good bit of back and forth on the low and high to get right. I would lean the low by a 1/8 to 1/4 turn in. Lower la ccw if needed to slow rpms at idle after if needed. Check after a piss rev to see how your wfo no load is then make a couple cuts and check again. I would likely set high about 12500 to 13200. It sounds fat on the low and high to me right now.
 

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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It sounds fat on the low and high to me right now.

Hard to say. He is not playing nice.
Giving us cold saws and choked up saws from idling. Once the smoke cleared out and he bilped it twice before the cut then it seemed it had an over fuelled hesitation.
That could very well be the saw and the timing he was triggering off. It didn't do that when he went from stop to high rev.

After he came out of the cut it had a slight delay revving down off the top it appeared. He revved it one more time and same thing. That is usually lean low or a leak starting to open up as it warms or carb issue or throttle 'cable' is sticky/ frozen. Inefficient spring, ect.

I would like a vid of him setting up the low with a high enough idle that the saw races. It's easy to tell if he is at the peek or not when he goes to turn back 1/4 turn.
 
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