036 oiler nightmare

Backtroller · Jan 2, 2018

What works the best for me is to cut the hose in half so you have two. I removed the pump and bolt it to side if my workbench through the bolt holes. I put a little oil inside of the hard black hose and get out the heat gun. Once the plastic pipe is hot enough I took a 1/2" copper water pipe cap and put that over the end of the piece and push firmly down. I chamfered the opposite end that goes to bar so it goes a little more smoothly through that hole. But before you attempt to put it in the hole put the spring inside of the hose. After you get it all in it will be a little long and I just trim as square as I can with an exacto knife and push in the brass piece

Backtroller · Jan 2, 2018

The heat gun method works well and you can better control the heat if some is worried about the flame.

Atleast if you buy the kit and cut it into halves you have one side to practice on

Place the spring inside of the pipe. It just slides in. After I fish the pipe through the case I trim the excess pipe and install the trumpet. Find a drill bit that will fit inside and push it in.

Backtroller · Jan 2, 2018

I used the 1/2” copper pipe cap over the plastic pipe so I could apply some force on the plastic pipe. It takes some force, but with a heat gun it’s not bad. If it’s not moving over the barb heat it some more.

Backtroller · Jan 2, 2018

Like this

old wasted pipe but you get the idea

Backtroller · Jan 2, 2018

Just a short used piece to get the idea across

MattG · Jan 7, 2018

Well I did install the oil line the other day. I kind of cheated a tiny bit because I dressed the barb first both to remove the damage it had suffered and also to make it slightly easier to install. The other thing I did to help myself was when I pre-warmed the line I also pushed a tapered punch down the pipe bore to open it out a little.

I didn't use @Backtroller 's screw into wood trick, instead I padded my bench vice with wood and gripped the pump there. I didn't use heat gun on the pipe to help push it down, I just had a pan of boiled hot water nearby. I also only dunked a small length (about 1/2 inch of the pipe in the water). I did modify pliers and I found this was good, but only gripped the line about a couple of mm away from where the barb was as I pushed the pipe down. Lots of grease / oil used on barb and pipe.

Since I was slightly worried that the join might be too loose, as I had dressed the barb prior to the push, I heat-shrunk the join by applying a heat gun until the plastic started to soften and the installation grease started to change state a bit. Then I threw the thing into a bucket of ice cold water and left it for 10 minutes.

I made a drift/flare tool by filing an angle on an M6 bolt. Then I covered the pipe and the drilling in the case with oil and pushed the line through. Oh and then I suddenly remembered to push the spring in, which was a painless manoeuvre.

Getting the brass trumpet in wasn't too bad but it take a while. In the end I think was using various punches, my modded bolt and a 5 or 6mm allen key as drifts to tap it in.

Here it is, not pretty but it seems to work.

so yeah, I later just tested it in the workshop. Oil to the delivery slot, and I couldn't see any pooling underneath the pump....

MattG · Jan 7, 2018

Obviously it would have been silly not to have taken the opportunity to also change the suction hose, blow the strainer and flush the tank out.

Regards the clutch (the shoes look very new) I put on matching springs

and installed a cover washer, and new worm gear beneath.

I also fitted the upgraded bar studs and countersunk the clutch cover accordingly. Putting on the bar is no longer a balancing act!

angelo c · Jan 9, 2018

anyone got any theories on why the rigid hose is used as opposed to the flexible impulse line ?
man that makes this a non-event. both are oil and temp safe so why rigid ? low pressure and the oiler is only going to allow so much oil past the barb anyway so the ID of the line is a non issue ? a formed "clip" will keep it behind the clutch and away from harm.

PogoInTheWoods · Jan 9, 2018

A head scratcher for sure. I'm going with typical over engineering at the outset due to the clutch drum proximity and a boatload of excess inventory since they discovered the needle cage would eventually fail and take out the hose. Probably have miles of that tubing in a warehouse somewhere.

Backtroller · Jan 9, 2018

I wish they would have made it with the aluminum pipe that the 044 uses. Those are nice and easy to work with.

angelo c · Jan 9, 2018

Backtroller said:
I wish they would have made it with the aluminum pipe that the 044 uses. Those are nice and easy to work with. View attachment 105981

Have ya tried to bolt one on and see ?
Betcha it works. Just use that last section of hose in the case through passage and wallah

Backtroller · Jan 9, 2018

I think the arc is different just looking at the pictures posted above. I wish a had an open saw just to see.

MattG · Jan 10, 2018

angelo c said:
anyone got any theories on why the rigid hose is used as opposed to the flexible impulse line ?
man that makes this a non-event. both are oil and temp safe so why rigid ? low pressure and the oiler is only going to allow so much oil past the barb anyway so the ID of the line is a non issue ? a formed "clip" will keep it behind the clutch and away from harm.

Hi Angelo,

They must use the hose and the spring in order to form a bend without collapsing a regular rubber line. Also it's not a rubber hose, I don't think, it's plastic, or maybe it's got a higher plastic content.

If you put the pump in a vice or screw onto a fixed surface, it's not that hard a job I don't think. The rigidity thing actually makes it easier to grip with the modified pliers. You must vice the pump up to use the stihl method in my opinion though Angelo. Also pre flaring the inside of the hose bore prior to pushing down will help get it on the first part. I also only warmed the last 1-1.5cm of the end of my hose (boiled hot water) to soften a little. I know guys DO use a heat gun, but it just seems far too easy to GET IT TOO SOFT and lose any advantage you had, and displace all the lubricating oil/grease that you put there!.

If you measure the hose with calipers, you'll see it's 6mm OD, so just grab an old rusty pair of pliers and attack either side of the middle of jaws with a 4mm round file and keep testing against the hose until it's a v. tight grip, but won't crush it.

Do it man! It's easier than 200T bakelites!

angelo c · Jan 10, 2018

MattG said:
Hi Angelo,

They must use the hose and the spring in order to form a bend without collapsing a regular rubber line. Also it's not a rubber hose, I don't think, it's plastic, or maybe it's got a higher plastic content.

If you put the pump in a vice or screw onto a fixed surface, it's not that hard a job I don't think. The rigidity thing actually makes it easier to grip with the modified pliers. You must vice the pump up to use the stihl method in my opinion though Angelo. Also pre flaring the inside of the hose bore prior to pushing down will help get it on the first part. I also only warmed the last 1-1.5cm of the end of my hose (boiled hot water) to soften a little. I know guys DO use a heat gun, but it just seems far too easy to GET IT TOO SOFT and lose any advantage you had, and displace all the lubricating oil/grease that you put there!.

If you measure the hose with calipers, you'll see it's 6mm OD, so just grab an old rusty pair of pliers and attack either side of the middle of jaws with a 4mm round file and keep testing against the hose until it's a v. tight grip, but won't crush it.

Do it man! It's easier than 200T bakelites!

200ts are a joy to work on...easy Peasy...this oiler thing has me skeerd

Backtroller · Jan 10, 2018

If you send me the oiler and the stihl kit I’d do it for you. I’d leave it long so you could trim the hose and add the trumpet on your own. It’s really not that bad. Really whats the worse that can happen? You’d be out $15 to buy a new kit. However, each kit gives you two tries.

MattG · Jan 10, 2018

Backtroller said:
You’d be out $15 to buy a new kit.

Ya kiddin'!!

The kit is like £1.62 over in Angleterre! That can't be more than $2 ??

MattG · Jan 10, 2018

angelo c said:
this oiler thing has me skeerd

I reckon you'll be absolutely fine, if you plan it out well, and just take it slow.

Backtroller · Jan 10, 2018

That stihl kit I included the picture of is around $13-15 here. You get a spring, tube and trumpet.

https://www.ebay.com/i/321761166145

Wonkydonkey · Jan 10, 2018

MattG said:
Ya kiddin'!!

The kit is like £1.62 over in Angleterre! That can't be more than $2 ??

I think that's inc, postage too and fro of said oil pump and kit

Edit, I got it wrong, if I,d waited a few mins. I would have saved myself typing, doh..

Backtroller · Jan 10, 2018

That’s one of the reasons guys are nervous about doing it. You good up too many times and it gets costly.

036 oiler nightmare

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