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254XP Rebuild

Stump Shot

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Not sure if I have any 254 deflectors or not, but don't sweat it. It's not a big deal to have it on there anyway. Those plates weren't on most of the 200 series saws until halfway or so through the models runs. So, there's plenty of saws that never had them at all.

I can't say if the KS cylinder is better or not. Or with and without the deco is another one. Sometimes stuff just gets labeled better because it's less common.

Couple things on that 254 if you are still hunting parts. There were some differences on the starter side between the early saws and the later saws with the air injection. The left side of the crankcase was actually different, along with the air conductor. But the early "small decal" starter used a different pulley that the later "large decal" starter which is deeper. Either starter works on any saw, but you can't mix the internal parts.

I think 254's run better with .325, which is how I have mine set up. Not saying 3/8 is bad, (and don't want to ignite that debate here), but I like 'em with .325. But the small spline drum is NLA from Husky. Not sure if Oregon still has one or not. So, if a drum needs to be replaced then 3/8 might be the only option for a guy.

You guys KNOW we are going to have to have a 200 series fest at Walt's when the weather breaks, right? :)

Hey guys, listen to Bob here, I learned all this stuff the hard way on this saw. Was a 1989 vintage saw and was upgraded with the newest bells and whistles including air injection. Which by the way wont work with an old starter and really had to be made to fit as believe it or not the provision on the crankcase itself is not there, so some mechanic type fitting with the aid of drive rivets and epoxy were needed to make it happen, not plug and play. All those parts were NLA and took a bunch of time to get here there and everywhere. Ended up buying the starter one piece at a time as like Bob said, none of the parts interchange, a whole new starter would have been the way to go here. A pin on the back side of the new clutch cover was necessary to remove as the older saw had no provision for it. Aftermarket drum is available somewhere but no telling now just who has it. The .325" narrow kerf set up with an 8 pin sprocket is just a dream for limbing and topping. The only performance modification performed was to cut out the little flap in the exhaust outlet. Really all that was needed to wake this saw up so to speak and make it a worth all the effort put into it. Really a great saw that can still hang or even outrun some more modern versions in its class.

IMG_20160930_165245_752.jpg
 

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Fortunately for me the starter I got from Jon is a complete assembly. That’s a great looking saw you’ve got there stump shot. I’d like to get a metal clutch cover like yours eventually but it’s not a priority as my plastic one is in surprisingly good condition.
 

Stump Shot

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Fortunately for me the starter I got from Jon is a complete assembly. That’s a great looking saw you’ve got there stump shot. I’d like to get a metal clutch cover like yours eventually but it’s not a priority as my plastic one is in surprisingly good condition.

Is my cousins saw and he had it since new in '89. Logged with it, cleared land and cut firewood for years. Put three ring sets in it and just kept going until the plating wore through the cylinder! @Tor R is right, these are tough little well built saws. He also has three 353's he would like me to look at as they won't cut near as good as that 254. Lol
 

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Is my cousins saw and he had it since new in '89. Logged with it, cleared land and cut firewood for years. Put three ring sets in it and just kept going until the plating wore through the cylinder! @Tor R is right, these are tough little well built saws. He also has three 353's he would like me to look at as they won't cut near as good as that 254. Lol
That’s some great history on that saw. Just confirms my want for one was justified.
 

Stump Shot

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That’s some great history on that saw. Just confirms my want for one was justified.

Oh yeah! He has a probably a dozen Husqvarna and Jonsered saws on the shelf, and you can use any one of them, but don't lay a hand on that 254, lookout! Lol
 

Tor R

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I actually prefer them 254 more compared against 262.
Bottom end is just as strong, out of, can it be 8 (maybe 10), I've never got one with a blown conrod, can't say the same about 262 (thats more like 50-50).
In middle 93 all three got a stronger crank, 254, 257, 262, a strong build 254 got even stronger.

I also like this a tad lower top cover, and the front handle bar feels better to twist the saw around, both are ++ in my book.

My last build will be a clone, 262 tank, first batch 254 jug, some porting and modds....... One of the saws I look forward to finish :D

Forgot to say, 325 is what mine runs with :D
 

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I actually prefer them 254 more compared against 262.
Bottom end is just as strong, out of, can it be 8 (maybe 10), I've never got one with a blown conrod, can't say the same about 262 (thats more like 50-50).
In middle 93 all three got a stronger crank, 254, 257, 262, a strong build 254 got even stronger.

I also like this a tad lower top cover, and the front handle bar feels better to twist the saw around, both are ++ in my book.

My last build will be a clone, 262 tank, first batch 254 jug, some porting and modds....... One of the saws I look forward to finish :D

Forgot to say, 325 is what mine runs with :D
Great perspective Tor thanks! Looking forward to getting mine going
 

dustinwilt68

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I might know a guy with a spare 262 tank with mounts just sitting around. He also might have a 262xp with a new meteor piston in it for sale soon. (Once he decides he really doesn't need another.)
 

Onan18

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Not sure if I have any 254 deflectors or not, but don't sweat it. It's not a big deal to have it on there anyway. Those plates weren't on most of the 200 series saws until halfway or so through the models runs. So, there's plenty of saws that never had them at all.

I can't say if the KS cylinder is better or not. Or with and without the deco is another one. Sometimes stuff just gets labeled better because it's less common.

Couple things on that 254 if you are still hunting parts. There were some differences on the starter side between the early saws and the later saws with the air injection. The left side of the crankcase was actually different, along with the air conductor. But the early "small decal" starter used a different pulley that the later "large decal" starter which is deeper. Either starter works on any saw, but you can't mix the internal parts.

I think 254's run better with .325, which is how I have mine set up. Not saying 3/8 is bad, (and don't want to ignite that debate here), but I like 'em with .325. But the small spline drum is NLA from Husky. Not sure if Oregon still has one or not. So, if a drum needs to be replaced then 3/8 might be the only option for a guy.

You guys KNOW we are going to have to have a 200 series fest at Walt's when the weather breaks, right? :)

Hey guys, listen to Bob here, I learned all this stuff the hard way on this saw. Was a 1989 vintage saw and was upgraded with the newest bells and whistles including air injection. Which by the way wont work with an old starter and really had to be made to fit as believe it or not the provision on the crankcase itself is not there, so some mechanic type fitting with the aid of drive rivets and epoxy were needed to make it happen, not plug and play. All those parts were NLA and took a bunch of time to get here there and everywhere. Ended up buying the starter one piece at a time as like Bob said, none of the parts interchange, a whole new starter would have been the way to go here. A pin on the back side of the new clutch cover was necessary to remove as the older saw had no provision for it. Aftermarket drum is available somewhere but no telling now just who has it. The .325" narrow kerf set up with an 8 pin sprocket is just a dream for limbing and topping. The only performance modification performed was to cut out the little flap in the exhaust outlet. Really all that was needed to wake this saw up so to speak and make it a worth all the effort put into it. Really a great saw that can still hang or even outrun some more modern versions in its class.

View attachment 104252


Oregon offers a Powermate rim setup for these with a .325-7 rim, I got one for my Dads 254 just a couple of months ago (10/2017).
 

Dub11

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Thanks guys for the info in this thread. I have a 254 that just needs my free time to put back together and I.got some of my parts from a guy on eBay going by Barry's chainsaw or something like it. He is back east in New Hampshire iirc. A fast shipper and good guy to deal with. Has lots of husky stuff.
 

Spike60

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As of now, complete starters and clutch covers, (the metal ones), as well as 254 top ends are still available. I say, "as of now" because the quanities are low. There is never any advance notice when a part is going away. It just shows up as NLA once the last one is gone. 254 top handle is obviously still available since it's shared with the 55. Pretty sure the taller 257/262 handle is NLA. There are 2 side covers, that only differ in the height of the flag handle. Being a safety item, chain brake assemblies are generally kept around longer than other parts.

Thing that makes the 254 unique is that it is only 1cc off from being exactly halfway between the 50cc and 60cc class. So, it can outcut most 50's and nip at the heels of most 60's in a nice handy package.
 

rattler

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As of now, complete starters and clutch covers, (the metal ones), as well as 254 top ends are still available. I say, "as of now" because the quanities are low. There is never any advance notice when a part is going away. It just shows up as NLA once the last one is gone. 254 top handle is obviously still available since it's shared with the 55. Pretty sure the taller 257/262 handle is NLA. There are 2 side covers, that only differ in the height of the flag handle. Being a safety item, chain brake assemblies are generally kept around longer than other parts.

Thing that makes the 254 unique is that it is only 1cc off from being exactly halfway between the 50cc and 60cc class. So, it can outcut most 50's and nip at the heels of most 60's in a nice handy package.
I think I may have a 55 tank
 
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