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Husqvarna 350/346 Repair Thread.

Onan18

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Here we go again everyone, this thread will document the general repairs and some basic mods to the Husqvarna 340/345/350/351/353/346 chassis as well as their Jonsered counterparts. I have a few 350s in the que for re-seal and 346 cylinder conversion as well as my Dads 346 for seal replacement and an intake track upgrade; so I will be adding to this thread as they come up in the rotation.

On the bench is a 350, this saw came in for an erratic run issue characteristic of an air leak. It will be getting re-sealed as well as the intake clamp update, muffler support bracket added, carb kit, fuel line, etc...

20171211_113850.jpg
The victim.
 

Onan18

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20171211_113925.jpg
Start by removing the top cover.

20171211_113949.jpg
Clutch cover next.
20171211_113953.jpg
On this chassis the adjuster pin and tensioner screw are one piece. It works but is hard to get a screwdriver on. A good upgrade is a clutch cover assembly from a 455/460. You have to remove the tensioner from the case but otherwise it is a direct swap.
 

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20171211_121259.jpg
This small wire retains the throttle linkage.
20171211_121313.jpg
Pop it out.
20171211_121322.jpg
Depress the throttle.
20171211_121337.jpg
Hold the throttle shaft open.
20171211_121353.jpg
Release the trigger and the throttle linkage will come out of the catch.
 

Onan18

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Clutch next, the tool for this is really inexpensive.

20171211_122145.jpg
But if you are in a hurry there are other ways.

20171211_122156.jpg
Catch the clutch and give it a couple of good smacks.

20171211_122437.jpg
And it will spin off.
 

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20171211_122441.jpg
Clutch drum next.

20171211_122443.jpg
Don't forget the needle bearing.

20171211_122456.jpg
Wind the worm gear out.

20171211_122506.jpg
You can see how the cutout in the worm matches the drum, this is how the oil pump is driven.

20171211_122531.jpg
And this is as far as you have to go on this side.
 

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20171211_122558.jpg
Loosen the flywheel nut and run it until it is flush with the end of the threads.

20171211_122630.jpg
A couple of sharp taps on the nut and the flywheel comes off, the key is cast in so you cannot lose it.

20171211_122635.jpg
You don't have to remove the coil for this job but if you do be sure not to lose track of the ground strap.

20171211_122652.jpg
Remove the cylinder bolts.

20171211_122823.jpg
And off.
 

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There are two flex limiters for the anti-vibe.

20171211_123016.jpg
One here.

20171211_123242.jpg
And one here.

20171211_123259.jpg
The screws don't have threads on the end, they just push into the buffers.

20171211_123310.jpg
Which rest in these pockets, with the screws out they will pull free.
 

huskihl

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View attachment 100770
Fuel line routes through the case here.

View attachment 100771
Remove the front A/V mount retainer screw.

View attachment 100772
And the back one.

View attachment 100773
Uh-Oh.

View attachment 100774
That's not good.
I've seen a few 346's pull those threads out. Throttle is usually stuck about 1/2 open and inoperable. It's from getting the Bar pinched and yanking it out. Shove a piece of trimmer line in there and run the screw in. Or melt some trimmer line into the hole and re-drill it
 
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