The Cut Report - After the Bench

[Czed]

Great thread. Most of my repairs are fuel system related so nothing special. If I ever get something interesting I'll post it. lol

I personally think that is the most important in the life of a two stroke i would guess 80 percent or better of the stuff i work on is fuel line carb or impulse line problems for instance i just fixed a dolmar 115 someone had three pieces of different size line it was leaking at two junctions not allowing fuel to be drawn from the tank a factory line with grommet fixed it .

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

I had a 290 come in where the customer complained it leaked fuel and was hard starting. Ended up being a few simple fixes. For one, the air filter was packed with fine dust due to a rocked chain. Removing the air filter revealed the popped apart tank vent. I could have put it back together, but a new one was $6 so why not. Replaced it and then flushed the fuel tank and pressure tested the fuel line. It was good so I put a new filter in. Dug into the carb to find stale fuel and stretched fuel pump gasket. A new carb is the Walbro HD18D and for $45.95 was $10 cheaper than a rebuild so I went with a new carb. Replaced the worn out spark plug. Greased the clutch bearing. Not mentioning before all this I completely cleaned the saw! Installed a new chain and test ran. She runs like a top and pops the 2nd pull and fires the 3rd.

Parts used:
Walbro HD18D 1127 120 0604
F/F 0000 350 3500
S/P WSR6F
Chains: 33RSC 84E.

 

[MustangMike]

I believe that uses the same carb as a 440 or 460. I think you can get rebuild kits for less than $10, and new carbs (AM) for less than $20.

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

I believe that uses the same carb as a 440 or 460. I think you can get rebuild kits for less than $10, and new carbs (AM) for less than $20.

We're pretty much an OEM shop so I am stuck ordering from Stihl because that's where the boss's want us to order. haha Our kits cost the customer $14.95 and add the half hour book time your at about 50-55 for a rebuild. I think the 460 uses the HD-21 series. Can't remember off the top of my head.

 

[MustangMike]

That explains it!

Hey, you probably know this: On an 034, does that oil line that goes from the pump to feed the bar come out in reverse direction? Seems to be steel lined.

Also, to split the case, just remove the 3 screws that circle the crank? Don't want to try and split it w/o everything but the pins out.

Thanks.

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

That explains it!

Hey, you probably know this: On an 034, does that oil line that goes from the pump to feed the bar come out in reverse direction? Seems to be steel lined.

Also, to split the case, just remove the 3 screws that circle the crank? Don't want to try and split it w/o everything but the pins out.

Thanks.

Not quite sure on the pump line, when I split cases I take just about every screw out that I can find in the case, usually includes cleaning the saw one or twice to reveal any holes full of saw dust hiding screws. haha Once all screws are out, heating the case up around the bearing makes splitting them pretty easy. I'd leave the line in until you get the cases apart, you may be able to see better after they are split. 034's seem rare around here, I've only worked on One in my time....which is only almost 3 years. lol

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

That explains it!

Hey, you probably know this: On an 034, does that oil line that goes from the pump to feed the bar come out in reverse direction? Seems to be steel lined.

Also, to split the case, just remove the 3 screws that circle the crank? Don't want to try and split it w/o everything but the pins out.

Thanks.

The oem oil line is hard plastic with a spring inside. It can be pulled through the small case hole after you cut it off the pump. Save the brass nipple if you can and be careful cutting the line off the pump. The new kit has the brass, but I like stockpiling them.
Replacing it is tricky. The kit is available from Stihl or Dave. I'm experimenting with a different line and spring... They seem to be ok so far. Tons of threads about the process but let me know if you get stuck.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

For case splitting ease-
Remove all case screws (5/6?), knock back locating pins using punch or similar device, then try method of choice to split case, remove crank, and remove bearings.
I know the "hammer and heat" method is popular these days, but I exclusively use an old Husky case splitter. Ive split 034-660 with no issue (maybe widening the jaws a bit or beveling the inside jaw with a file).

 

[bennne]

The oem oil line is hard plastic with a spring inside. It can be pulled through the small case hole after you cut it off the pump. Save the brass nipple if you can and be careful cutting it off the pump. The new kit has the brass, but I like stockpiling them.
Replacing it is tricky. The kit is available from Stihl or Dave. I'm experimenting with a different line and spring... They seem to be ok so far. Tons of threads about the process but let me know if you get stuck.

Those hose kits are a pain in the backside. I use the genuine stihl fuel line of the same size 2.7x5.4 I believe

 

[Czed]

Just got a 288 in the guy had it serviced two years ago carb rebuild and fuel lines he said two times is all its been ran and he drained the fuel its very clean and well maintained but they used tygon or a knockoff and it turned to jelly in the tank. I switched to echo bulk rubber line five years ago and have never had a problem.

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, thanks. The only way to get it off the pump was to cut it, but it did not seem to work on the other end! Even heating it did not help!

Unless I pulled them earlier, I only found the 3 screws equal distant around the crank. I'll try to find an exploded view to make sure I did not miss anything.

Thanks for the info.

I wrestled at RIT in the early 70s, I believe one or two of my team mates were from your town.

(I forgot to hit Post on this)

 

[MustangMike]

Those hose kits are a pain in the backside. I use the genuine stihl fuel line of the same size 2.7x5.4 I believe

I was wondering if I could do that. Got fuel line for a MS660, will have to check if it is the same size.

 

[huskihl]

Unless I pulled them earlier, I only found the 3 screws equal distant around the crank. I'll try to find an exploded view to make sure I did not miss anything.

Thanks for the info.

I wrestled at RIT in the early 70s, I believe one or two of my team mates were from your town.

(I forgot to hit Post on this)

There are a couple on the front of the oil tank too. By the spikes

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, saw that in a blow up, will have to see if I already got them.

FYI, the Stihl instructions on removing that oil line are AFU! What a PITA that thing is.

Does the replacement line need the metal inside, or will it work just fine w/o it?

 

[MustangMike]

There are a couple on the front of the oil tank too. By the spikes

Sithl 034: HELP!!!

OK, I got all 5 case bolts out, and I made a splitter from and old Troy Built Roto Tiller Tine.

But something is holding it. Instructions say to remove two drift pins, but they don't say where. What is holding it is in a small deep hole right in front of the right front isolator. Is that a drift pin? Or do I have a broke off screw in there?

I can see something is in there from the left side of the case, but I don't want to try to drive out a screw.

Anyone know where the drift pins are located?

Thanks.

 

[huskihl]

Sithl 034: HELP!!!

OK, I got all 5 case bolts out, and I made a splitter from and old Troy Built Roto Tiller Tine.

But something is holding it. Instructions say to remove two drift pins, but they don't say where. What is holding it is in a small deep hole right in front of the right front isolator. Is that a drift pin? Or do I have a broke off screw in there?

I can see something is in there from the left side of the case, but I don't want to try to drive out a screw.

Anyone know where the drift pins are located?

Thanks.

There are 5 screws and 2 pins. Drive the pins out, or at least a half inch should do.

Below the top left screw is one pin, and below the lower right screw is a pin

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Yep. Drive back the pins, then split it.

The oil line-- the best way is the oem hard line. Having said that, conventional stihl fuel line or huztl line can work. Ive started to insert a small 1/8 spring into the tube to keep it from collapsing with time/heat. I have an 064 and an 036 with the spring.
I have 3 other 1125s running just the soft line...
If youre going to sell the saw, use the oem hard line.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Yea, thanks. The only way to get it off the pump was to cut it, but it did not seem to work on the other end! Even heating it did not help!

Unless I pulled them earlier, I only found the 3 screws equal distant around the crank. I'll try to find an exploded view to make sure I did not miss anything.

Thanks for the info.

I wrestled at RIT in the early 70s, I believe one or two of my team mates were from your town.

(I forgot to hit Post on this)

Nice! My Dad went to RIT (nights, though). Great hockey program!

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks guys, I got it apart, it was a pin. I was just afraid to start "driving" a bolt, or a broken off bolt.

Some sources say 5 screws (which I removed), others say 6 (which scared me). Finally just took a chance and took a punch to it, and it came out.

Made a home made case splitter out of an old roto tiller tine. Will post a pic later, but it worked (other than that pin hanging it up).

The saw is for me, so if soft line works that is likely what I will use (for the oil line). What a PITA! Glad the 044s don't have anything like that! There was no way to remove that oil line w/o ruining it. I think I will just use soft line with the metal flange on one end, and the other end plugged into to oil pump. If I can easily remove the spring, maybe I will insert it, but can't imagine that it needs it. The line is pressure, not vacuum!

 

[MustangMike]

Nice! My Dad went to RIT (nights, though). Great hockey program!

They even had football when I went there (no longer), and Coach Tom Coughlin was the coach, his first coaching job!

When did your Dad go? What was his major? I went for Accounting, my bother for Engineering.