High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

The Cut Report - After the Bench

BuckthornBonnie

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I think he finished in 85. He went to night school while working at Kodak.... Engineering major (electrical/mechanical).
Nice Coughlin reference... Waterloo's finest!
 

Canadian farm boy

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Does it seem to work OK just using the soft line (with the brass collar on the end), cause that is what I think I'm going to do?
I personally haven't had to replace the oiler hose on any of my saws yet but I've heard guys say that synflex air brake tubing works good.
If you'd like I can get some for you? I have access to rolls and rolls of this stuff. I can give it to you at the CT gtg.
 

huskihl

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I personally haven't had to replace the oiler hose on any of my saws yet but I've heard guys say that synflex air brake tubing works good.
If you'd like I can get some for you? I have access to rolls and rolls of this stuff. I can give it to you at the CT gtg.
You'd probably have to use heat or hot water to get it the right shape and to get it on the pump, but once it was there, I bet it would last forever
 

MustangMike

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I personally haven't had to replace the oiler hose on any of my saws yet but I've heard guys say that synflex air brake tubing works good.
If you'd like I can get some for you? I have access to rolls and rolls of this stuff. I can give it to you at the CT gtg.

If you want to bring some, I will give it a try. Just hope it is not as hard to work with as the one that came on it!

I did get a heat gun though, HF for $8-!!! I still had to cut the stock one off the pump.
 

Canadian farm boy

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If you want to bring some, I will give it a try. Just hope it is not as hard to work with as the one that came on it!

I did get a heat gun though, HF for $8-!!! I still had to cut the stock one off the pump.
I'll bring you a couple feet of it. Should be enough for several tries;).
About what size tuning do you need? 1/4"?
 

BuckthornBonnie

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Does it seem to work OK just using the soft line (with the brass collar on the end), cause that is what I think I'm going to do?

It works fine... But I know it could be a problem if my drum wobbles excessively or if too much heat builds up in that area. Neither of those scenarios are likely with me running it... My brother using it is a different story lol.
 

TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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Had an 015 that came in not starting and the starter recoil would bind.
Tore apart the recoil and found a bunch of dust built up around the shaft from all the years of use. Cleaned and went ahead and greased the shaft to help out. Smoothest recoil I've ever seen for metal on metal.
Checked carb and it was due for a rebuild and a good cleaning. Flushed the tank and serviced the filter. Fuel line was fine. Put it back together and she was a little grumpy coming to life, but after that ran like a top. Piston is in great shape with machine marks plainly visible. Has good compression. Should be a good little runner.
 

beaglebriar

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Slapped a new oil pump in a 290 and sent it home yesterday. I'd liked to have seen a little more oil flowing but I really hate to mod customer stuff unless they ask for it specifically.
 

Stump Shot

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Slapped a new oil pump in a 290 and sent it home yesterday. I'd liked to have seen a little more oil flowing but I really hate to mod customer stuff unless they ask for it specifically.

I know what you mean there, machines like that it's almost not considered modifying if you're making something work like it should in the first place. I call it good mechanicing. (even though that's not a word)
 

Stump Shot

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Well it took just shy of forever, but the 254xp is finally done. With constant back orders and a late decision to convert it over to air injection were the main culprits. After a last minute muffler job, I took it out to the wood pile for a few cuts in the dark. This really made this saw wake up, was glad to get permission to do so, as it really cut quite well. I can see now why this saw is so revered.
Parts came from HL Supply @Gentleman, Husqvarna, Bailey's, Chainsawr, Pantano, FarmerTec, and a couple of gracious members @Toad22t , @backhoelover that deserve an extra special thank you for there help. Also speaking of help many members here helped with all manor of things especially timing numbers and such, too many to list individually so just a big thank you to all the site members here.
The build was fairly straight forward, with the exception of the cases being re-painted wit Husqvarna paint. SKF bearings were installed with new Husqvarna seals. Oiler worm drive gear and drum were updated to newer style. Both Intake and exhaust ports were smoothed and matched to the manifold and muffler before polishing. A thin .020" base gasket was used to bring the squish down to .021"-.022". Finished off with the last minute muffler mod, other wise everything else was pretty much just R&R.
The air injection for any one wishing to update the older saws is not as straight forward or as easy as it would seem, the exhaust deflector being the exception, that goes right in behind the muffler, no sweat. The moon shaped air deflector that goes on the crankcase had to be marine epoxied to the case as the case had no place to mount the screws. A newer top cover is necessary as well as the air foil behind the starter and even the starter was updated as believe it or not has a different way the air enters into it. It also had to have every last part in it replaced as nothing from the older starter would fit. So quite part heavy and about half of them are NLA as well.
The clutch cover is for the newer models and a little alignment stub had to be ground off to allow it to fit the older case. A new sticker for a 272xp was cut down to fit the clutch cover.
A narrow kerf, narrow gauge chain was installed, this I've found works quite well with the 50cc class of saws, really does make 'em cut faster, and at 20" is lighter as well.
Original parts that were re-used. Cases, crankshaft, carburetor, tank handle, muffler, oil pump and screws. That's it, everything else is new, even the bar studs and chain tensioner were replaced. I was also able to salvage the 300th year sticker and put it on the top cover.
But it's done now and its owner is happy, so I reckon that's all that matters. Now he can go beat the snot out of it.


IMG_20161104_193509_083.jpg

IMG_20161104_193458_445.jpg
 

Toad22t

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Well it took just shy of forever, but the 254xp is finally done. With constant back orders and a late decision to convert it over to air injection were the main culprits. After a last minute muffler job, I took it out to the wood pile for a few cuts in the dark. This really made this saw wake up, was glad to get permission to do so, as it really cut quite well. I can see now why this saw is so revered.
Parts came from HL Supply @Gentleman, Husqvarna, Bailey's, Chainsawr, Pantano, FarmerTec, and a couple of gracious members @Toad22t , @backhoelover that deserve an extra special thank you for there help. Also speaking of help many members here helped with all manor of things especially timing numbers and such, too many to list individually so just a big thank you to all the site members here.
The build was fairly straight forward, with the exception of the cases being re-painted wit Husqvarna paint. SKF bearings were installed with new Husqvarna seals. Oiler worm drive gear and drum were updated to newer style. Both Intake and exhaust ports were smoothed and matched to the manifold and muffler before polishing. A thin .020" base gasket was used to bring the squish down to .021"-.022". Finished off with the last minute muffler mod, other wise everything else was pretty much just R&R.
The air injection for any one wishing to update the older saws is not as straight forward or as easy as it would seem, the exhaust deflector being the exception, that goes right in behind the muffler, no sweat. The moon shaped air deflector that goes on the crankcase had to be marine epoxied to the case as the case had no place to mount the screws. A newer top cover is necessary as well as the air foil behind the starter and even the starter was updated as believe it or not has a different way the air enters into it. It also had to have every last part in it replaced as nothing from the older starter would fit. So quite part heavy and about half of them are NLA as well.
The clutch cover is for the newer models and a little alignment stub had to be ground off to allow it to fit the older case. A new sticker for a 272xp was cut down to fit the clutch cover.
A narrow kerf, narrow gauge chain was installed, this I've found works quite well with the 50cc class of saws, really does make 'em cut faster, and at 20" is lighter as well.
Original parts that were re-used. Cases, crankshaft, carburetor, tank handle, muffler, oil pump and screws. That's it, everything else is new, even the bar studs and chain tensioner were replaced. I was also able to salvage the 300th year sticker and put it on the top cover.
But it's done now and its owner is happy, so I reckon that's all that matters. Now he can go beat the snot out of it.


View attachment 39907

View attachment 39908

It turned out real nice Steve. I'm glad I could help.
 

Dub11

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Slapped a new oil pump in a 290 and sent it home yesterday. I'd liked to have seen a little more oil flowing but I really hate to mod customer stuff unless they ask for it specifically.
What brand of pump? and how would you go about modifying it. I have a 029 Iam turning in to a 039 and I feel like my 290 has never oiled enough I post some after pics soon thanks
 

ANewSawyer

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Not a "cut" report but a unit that crossed my bench. My new to me Shindaiwa EB802RT. I had one of the after market carbs on it., thinking that the oem carb would be trashed. It ran fine with the aftermarket but the OEM was fine when I opened it. So I stuck the OEM back on there. Wow. It is so powerful coming from my first backpack a 150bt. I had a slight challenge walking up banks with it at wot. It wants to push me backwards, and I had to push my knee behind it when tuning it for WOT. The whole pack was shifting from the force and not a little. It seems to have settled in at ~78-7900 rpms. That is about 400 above stock. If I try to go much richer, it will four stroke occasionally. Doesn't hurt but really gets annoying to me to hear it switchback and forth from four stroking to non.
 
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