Who welds aluminum here?

[Greenerpastures]

Cut off the bad lug, clean, build up again using tig, even a mig will work for this,
as it has to be milled and drilled, look for cracks after cutting off the bad lug, clean
them out and weld them up too.

Though you would be better with a new cylinder,
Chainsaw Jim points out something I would not overlook.

Regards, john

 

[brandonstclair20]

Cut off the bad lug, clean, build up again using tig, even a mig will work for this,
as it has to be milled and drilled, look for cracks after cutting off the bad lug, clean
them out and weld them up too.

Though you would be better with a new cylinder,
Chainsaw Jim points out something I would not overlook.

Regards, john

I do see a ring around the top where the chrome is gone. Maybe I should just use the good cylinder I have.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mdavlee]

Some jugs are like that new. The lining doesn't go all the way to the top. Can you measure to see hjow wide it is.?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

That last pic is worth$100.
The plating very rarely goes to the squish band.
You can see that your top ring doesn’t come close. From what I see, you’re good to go

 

[Greenerpastures]

Some jugs are like that new. The lining doesn't go all the way to the top. Can you measure to see hjow wide it is.?

I agree, I was just worried, because this jug has miles on it, so why the shiny
ring around the top instead of a dull sooty oily or carboned one, has something
been polishing it, hitting it, I would be weary of using it until measurements were taken,
if clearance is there, then that would be different.

 

[Moparmyway]

 

[Armbru84]

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Good work.

 

[Scotts_4x]

You have to cut all the threads out or you won't be able to get a clean weld to the bottom, they always hold contaminates and don't melt in well. I clean the threads out so you're welding on clean metal and ditch cut enough to get the tig torch down to the bottom of the thread bore.

Different strokes, same outcome. I've been welding in machine shops almost 20 years. Every hole I've ever fixed was put in a machine and got the hole put back where it was and re-tapped. Never had any voids on the drilled hole or the threads cut into them. One trick i do use is to run a hot arc over the surface to be welded to open up the pores that have absobed oil over the life of the part. Wire brush it all out and then start adding filler. Cast stuff holds onto a lot of stuff below the surface.

-Scott

 

[srcarr52]

Different strokes, same outcome. I've been welding in machine shops almost 20 years. Every hole I've ever fixed was put in a machine and got the hole put back where it was and re-tapped. Never had any voids on the drilled hole or the threads cut into them. One trick i do use is to run a hot arc over the surface to be welded to open up the pores that have absobed oil over the life of the part. Wire brush it all out and then start adding filler. Cast stuff holds onto a lot of stuff below the surface.

-Scott

That it does. I usually do the quick burn off arc too.

 

[Moparmyway]

I tried the "quick burn" in the hole ............ I ended up cutting the corner off and building it up with rod

 

[srcarr52]

I tried the "quick burn" in the hole ............ I ended up cutting the corner off and building it up with rod

Sometimes that happens. I've struck an arc on mag parts, heard a hiss and poof! Most of what I was trying to keep was gone. Pockets of junk material go up in smoke and leave a white residue that looks like mag rot.