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Which cyl hone needed

scooterbum

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Which hone do I need for a Ryobi weedeater cyl, aluminum oxide or silicon carbide?
 

farminkarman

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Then I just re-ring without honing?
I would make a split mandrel with a bolt or large nail and use it with a drill and sandpaper to remove any transfer. You definitely need to get rid of any high spots. Here is a @Mastermind vid for reference:
 

scooterbum

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I ordered a alum oxide ball hone, but if the cyl is plated I was wondering if I needed silicon carbide instead.
 

stretch5881

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I've read both threads about your weedeater. You didn't say "why" you think the cylinder needs to be honed. It would seem that you have knowledge of auto or tractor engines that need honing to break the glaze. Plated cylinders are not the same and neither are their methods. I think more information is needed here.
 

Czed

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Don't hone it just use sandpaper or scotchbright to break the glaze.
 

cuinrearview

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Is the cylinder an open port?
In my experience, it doesn't matter. This was an OE 372 jug that someone had ran a hone in. I'd just stick to the tried and true sandpaper method. Some even go as far as sanding by hand. I don't have that sort of time.20200229_072509.jpg20200229_072454.jpg20200229_072446.jpg
 

farminkarman

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scooterbum

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I've read both threads about your weedeater. You didn't say "why" you think the cylinder needs to be honed. It would seem that you have knowledge of auto or tractor engines that need honing to break the glaze. Plated cylinders are not the same and neither are their methods. I think more information is needed here.
Yes, I am a Powerplant Engineer 1st class, motorcycle mechanic, refrig tech, and heavy metals wastewater treatment plant operator.

Reason to hone is for light cyl cleanup and ring seating . Caber rings.

So, back on subject, why would an alum oxide hone, run for perhaps 10-20 seconds ruin a cylinder, but grinding on ports doesn't harm the plating?

Some might run an aggressive grit material, and run it too long of duration.

I'm all ears on this subject, because I have 2 or more cyls to do.

Thank you much.
 
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1Snowcat

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Did you watch Mastermind's video posted above? Ditch the hone, use the recommended scotch bright on a split mandrel of your choosing.... it's crazy how well it works! The hone risks catching a port and chipping the edges of plating, ruining the cylinder. These guys know best on this subject! If you have scratches deep enough in the plating to catch a fingernail the cylinder is likely junk anyway....chrome is MUCH harder than iron bores in older V-8 engines. Typically aluminum (from the piston) is transfered to cylinder wall (stuck on the chrome) which is what the scotchbright removes...
 
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Stump Shot

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Yes, I am a Powerplant Engineer 1st class, motorcycle mechanic, refrig tech, and heavy metals wastewater treatment plant operator.

Reason to hone is for light cyl cleanup and ring seating . Caber rings.

So, back on subject, why would an alum oxide hone, run for perhaps 10-20 seconds ruin a cylinder, but grinding on ports doesn't harm the plating?

Some might run an aggressive grit material, and run it too long of duration.

I'm all ears on this subject, because I have 2 or more cyls to do.

Thank you much.
Not all cylinders are even eligible to hone as the stones will catch, if they are okay, the hone stones need to be of a fine grit spring loaded type at least two inches long and a light lubricant such as WD-40 applied liberally prior to a brief in and out several times while spinning and that's it, no more. Then there are the ball type deglazing hones that need be bought per size of the cylinder diameter, that can be used in the same manner.
There're also 3M scotch-brite flap wheels available that work on any cylinder, they come in different diameters and make the job easy as key lime pie, or you can make your own puck like the Mastermind method and use a piece of scotch-brite pad for less money if you have the capability.
Whatever you use, a thorough washing should be done prior to installation.
 
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