Knife Sharpening

[WI_Hedgehog]

What stones or methods are people using?
I have a Lansky 5 stone? hone? kit the kind with the guide rods and jig.

I have tried and tried and cannot get a knife thats actually sharp, I can get them pretty decent but not sharp sharp.

I am looking for any info I can get to help me get my pocket knives really sharp.

I am thinking about getting a set of whetstones and was curious if anyone had any recomendations.

also any videos or books that have good quality info, I remember my grandpa using a leather belt, I have not tried that yet, but I am going to give that a try probably tomorrow.

THANKS

I have a pretty extensive Lansky setup, and if I were to start over with what I know now I'd buy ceramic stones instead as they're much faster, though less portable.

Lansky will net good results though, I start with a somewhat course stone and lightly stroke perpendicular to the blade (up/down both directions) until a burr is raised on the opposite side, then go to the opposite side and do the same (the burr from the first side usually breaks off). I then stroke parallel to the blade (lengthwise with the blade) to remove the scratches. Then I switch to the next less-course stone and repeat the process making sure to not get ham-fisted (meaning only light strokes). By the time I get to a 2000 grit polishing "stone" the scratches can only be seen with a 10x triplet loupe and to the naked eye the edge is a mirror finish.

The burr is the thing to look for, and raising one with a stone I'd normally consider "too course" saves a lot of time.

 

[Rugger007]

I have been using this one for years. Does a pretty good job. They have other sharpeners as well. https://www.worksharptools.com/shop...ol-sharpener-mk2/?utm_source=sharpener_finder

This unit is solid. This is the unit I would absolutely recommend (elite edition) https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/benchtop/ken-onion-edition-knife-tool-sharpener/
The motor is great and can withstand light commercial use. Completely adjustable speed and the belts are wider and I find they last longer as well.

 

[jakethesnake]

I do have one of those worksharp tools also. Once you get a feel for it a regular belt sander is an improvement if you’re moderately steady handed. The worksharp does put a nice edge on knives though

 

[Kerfed]

Interesting no one mentioned the ChefsChoice tabletop one. Never used one but seem popular

 

[Rugger007]

Interesting no one mentioned the ChefsChoice tabletop one. Never used one but seem popular

Those electric table top thingies are terrible, IMO! They create an edge that is not profiled correctly, tear rather than abrade the steel away, generate excessive heat and the angles are fixed.
They create a “sharp” edge because the edge is so rough and torn, not because it’s truly sharp.

Here is a fantastic article on the subject of sharp.

Index

Quantifying Sharp Definitions of Sharp and Keen Sharp and Keen part 2 The Slice Cut A Comparison of Several Manufactured Blades The Bevel Set The Honing Progression The Diamond Plate Progression It…

scienceofsharp.com

 

[Junk Meister]

What about keeping your knife sharp? The Nylon Cutting boards Kill an edge. (Tossin a cat in a barrel of turtles)

 

[Rugger007]

What about keeping your knife sharp? The Nylon Cutting boards Kill an edge. (Tossin a cat in a barrel of turtles)

Nylon cutting boards are destroy knife edges. They also harbour bacteria that gets into the cuts and can’t be washed or cleaned properly.
Wood cutting boards are better, but most use straight grain and will still prematurely dull an edge.
End Grain wood cutting boards are the best of the best. When you cut on end grain, you cut into or with the grain of the wood. Because you are not “severing” wood fibres, your knives will stay sharp much longer. When washed, the wood fibres swell and allow complete cleaning and disinfecting of the cutting surface.

To keep my knives honed use a ceramic honing rod and a flax linen strop followed by a cut through a hard felt block. If I need a bit more touch up, I’ll use CBN spray on a strop. The strip is a niece of float glass with balsa wood glued to the surface. On top of the balsa I use leather with the felted side out. The balsa will compress slightly giving a slight convex profile to the edge. It removes the wire edge and the slight convex is very durable.
Once this process no longer revives the edge, it’s back to the beginning.

 

[Junk Meister]

When washed, the wood fibres swell and allow complete cleaning and disinfecting of the cutting surface.

You clear up many questions with that one statement. I have White/Burr Oak and Black Walnut available any preferred wood you'd toss out there?

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

@Rugger007 : Do you have a link for where to get a good & thick piece of leather for a strop setup? I've been looking to make a better setup for knives and now one for axes (which need thick leather) but haven't found a good source.

 

[ammoaddict]

Nylon cutting boards are destroy knife edges. They also harbour bacteria that gets into the cuts and can’t be washed or cleaned properly.
Wood cutting boards are better, but most use straight grain and will still prematurely dull an edge.
End Grain wood cutting boards are the best of the best. When you cut on end grain, you cut into or with the grain of the wood. Because you are not “severing” wood fibres, your knives will stay sharp much longer. When washed, the wood fibres swell and allow complete cleaning and disinfecting of the cutting surface.

To keep my knives honed use a ceramic honing rod and a flax linen strop followed by a cut through a hard felt block. If I need a bit more touch up, I’ll use CBN spray on a strop. The strip is a niece of float glass with balsa wood glued to the surface. On top of the balsa I use leather with the felted side out. The balsa will compress slightly giving a slight convex profile to the edge. It removes the wire edge and the slight convex is very durable.
Once this process no longer revives the edge, it’s back to the beginning.

What about bamboo cutting boards?

 

[Rugger007]

Nylon cutting boards are destroy knife edges. They also harbour bacteria that gets into the cuts and can’t be washed or cleaned properly.
Wood cutting boards are better, but most use straight grain and will still prematurely dull an edge.
End Grain wood cutting boards are the best of the best. When you cut on end grain, you cut into or with the grain of the wood. Because you are not “severing” wood fibres, your knives will stay sharp much longer. When washed, the wood fibres swell and allow complete cleaning and disinfecting of the cutting surface.

You clear up many questions with that one statement. I have White/Burr Oak and Black Walnut available any preferred wood you'd toss out there?

Personally I would use Black Walnut. Here’s an end grain walnut board at 2” thick

 

[Rugger007]

What about bamboo cutting boards?

I think bamboo is a great renewable resource. It will make a great cutting board, just try to find one that is end grain.

 

[Rugger007]

@Rugger007 : Do you have a link for where to get a good & thick piece of leather for a strop setup? I've been looking to make a better setup for knives and now one for axes (which need thick leather) but haven't found a good source.

Welcome to Jende Industries, The Holy Mecca of Sharp

We offer sharpening products for JIGS, Edge Pro, Hapstone, TSPRof, KME & Wicked Edge. Also stock chef knives, Taiwan Tuna Knives, reed knives, Sharpening stones, knife strops, stropping emulsions, Master Kuo & Maestro Wu.

jendeindustries.com

Strops

Here is our complete line of strops and stropping supplies for sharpening and refining the edges on your knives and razors.

www.chefknivestogo.com

For my Axes, I prefer to use a firehose strop. The old fire hoses used to be made of flax linen and were unlined. They are probably the most effective strop I have ever used.

 

[bogieboy]

For my work pocket knives they get a 1000/6000 whetstone (250/400 diamond sharpening plate if i really bugger the edge) kitchen knives get a 3000/8000 and finish on a strop....the biggest key i have found (as a hamfisted small engine mechanic) is to use a very delicate touch when sharpening... if you push the knive down into the stone it will deform the burr, basically just let the knife do the work, the other tip is you gotta hold that angle that you sharpen at very consistent or the burr will not raise right, or at all...

 

[old guy]

I see people putting a whole lot more effert into this than I would.
Have you ever skinned a beaver, nothing dulls a blade faster, every inch must be cut away, your sharpening methods would double the time as it sometimes takes three sharpens on a big beaver if your skinning clean.

 

[Rugger007]

I see people putting a whole lot more effert into this than I would.
Have you ever skinned a beaver, nothing dulls a blade faster, every inch must be cut away, your sharpening methods would double the time as it sometimes takes three sharpens on a big beaver if your skinning clean.

I am certainly guilty of this, but to me it’s about the process.

I have skinned and dressed many animals, beaver including beaver. Many of my good friends are indigenous and have taught me so much. That said, I have never had a knife dull on me cleaning a beaver.

If you have to sharpen three times on a single animal, your edge was not properly created and/or the steel in your blade is less than optimal and too soft to hold an edge.

Most mass produced blades use inferior steel. Gerber comes to mind with regards to this. They make many good products but their knife steel is worthless IMO.

S35VN, Maxamet, etc. are modern powdered steels made specifically for forging of blades. There is no comparison to quality steels. Hard to sharpen, absolutely, but worth the extra effort.

 

[Duce]

View attachment 406728

I have these and they work for me.

 

[Junk Meister]

@Rugger007 : Do you have a link for where to get a good & thick piece of leather for a strop setup? I've been looking to make a better setup for knives and now one for axes (which need thick leather) but haven't found a good source.

Buffalo Hyde? I was in the market for a heavier belt and one BAY vendor said he tanned and dyed some of his own hydes, might be a lead. (Just a Thought)

 

[redneckhillbilly]

library didnt have anything, my uncle is a retired chef and I spoke with him about knife sharpening and he told me without taking a knife to a piece of leather they only get soo sharp, hes coming to visit next month and is going to give me a rundown and set me up with some stones

 

[Junk Meister]

I see people putting a whole lot more effert into this than I would.
Have you ever skinned a beaver, nothing dulls a blade faster, every inch must be cut away, your sharpening methods would double the time as it sometimes takes three sharpens on a big beaver if your skinning clean.

I have ate/eaten/et BEAVER but never had to skin one,,