What's the best way to remove a flywheel?

[Basher]

A quick blip or two from a 1/2 drive impact will break them free unless they are welded on, don`t run the impact like its attached to a vehicle lug nut, a quick blip from stationary, don`t let the crank turn over and over, its the quick snap that breaks the clutch free, not heavy hammering.

 

[cus_deluxe]

as far as flywheels go, i just ground the bottom of the “feet” on a junky two jaw puller i had around. now its thin enough to slide in behind the fw, put just a little tension on it and give that puller a little whack and they come right off. have yet to have a clutch that my 1/4” milwaukee wont get off, have the 1/2” for backup just in case haha.

 

[Fifelaker]

A reputable source told me Tannerite will work.

 

[KennyWinCT]

A reputable source told me Tannerite will work.

I think enough Tannerite will remove the garage from the saw so you'll have enough space to lever out that flywheel!

 

[M2theB]

View attachment 219537 View attachment 219538


I tried the shoe laces and no joy.
Puller plate works for me. Some torque, some tapping and some more torque and it’s off.

 

[jacob j.]

I've never had to use an impact driver on a flywheel, I just stick with the old elcheapo steering wheel puller unless it's a Stihl.



Although some *f-wordtard in this area working at a Husqvarna dealership in the 90's decided it was a good idea to glue on every flywheel
he removed from any saw with red loctite during re-install. I've encountered five of his saws over the years (mostly older Huskies, which
is why I think he was at a Husqvarna dealership).

 

[Al Smith]

It takes about 400 degrees to loosen red Loc-tite .That stuff is so tough it will seal freon .It's good stuff but my word don't get careless with it .I admit I did use it once on a rebuild of a well used Stihl 038 mag that had spent over 20 years of very hard service that kept blowing the clutch side seal out .I have no idea what happened to the seal bore cut but it must have really been f---up .After two seals I had to do something .

 

[Al Smith]

Speaking of pullers ,I'm probably going to do some hill billy engineering to make one to pull the drive gear for the oil pump on a Partner p100. Evidently it's pressed on the crankshaft internal and has to be pulled before you can split the cases .I have to change the rotating assembly from one case to another for a restoration . Good case ,bad assembly .Good assembly bad case deal .

 

[CR888]

Yeah the impact will undo the FW nut but dislodging the wheel I tap dead blow hammer on the nut that has been loosened which is still on the crank. The correct FW-puller tool is probably best here. Couldn't imagine a stiff FW glued with red loctite....that's like a bad nightmare. Theres a spot reseved in hell for that guy who glued EVERY flywheel he worked on.

 

[jacob j.]

Yeah the impact will undo the FW nut but dislodging the wheel I tap dead blow hammer on the nut that has been loosened which is still on the crank. The correct FW-puller tool is probably best here. Couldn't imagine a stiff FW glued with red loctite....that's like a bad nightmare. Theres a spot reseved in hell for that guy who glued EVERY flywheel he worked on.

In my case I'm pretty sure I know who the guy is - he worked at a large, local Husky shop for about 18 years and finished his career as a technician at the largest Chevrolet dealership in the area.
I've encountered many of his other "repairs" throughout the years. He's a nice guy but not the brightest bulb in the drawer.
It is interesting though, seeing something that someone did (good or bad) to a machine many years later. I've recently been working
on old McCullochs that were last serviced in the early-mid 80's and I'm seeing some interesting stuff there. Some of the work is atrocious and some is brilliant.

 

[M2theB]

Speaking of pullers ,I'm probably going to do some hill billy engineering to make one to pull the drive gear for the oil pump on a Partner p100. Evidently it's pressed on the crankshaft internal and has to be pulled before you can split the cases .I have to change the rotating assembly from one case to another for a restoration . Good case ,bad assembly .Good assembly bad case deal .

Made one for Husq 55.
Don’t know what the p100 looks like but must be very similar

 

[Al Smith]

It appears to have 3 "jacking holes " but it's in a very small circle .I haven't got into it yet to really know what I'm dealing with . Once I figure it out it won't be a big deal but I probably will have to get some long.I assume M6 bolts .That will be McMaster -Carr .No hurry because at 11 degrees out I have no intention of freezing my azz off in a cold garage .

 

[Lightning Performance]

BFH

 

[Nutball]

Tannerite.

Nope. I tried 5lbs, and the fact that I forgot to take the nut off is no excuse because the clutch came off no problem. It even backed the flywheel crank shaft half way out of the counterweight.

 

[Nutball]

I wasn't serious about the tannerite.

Oh...

 

[Mastermind]

Repped

 

[Nutball]

A reputable source told me Tannerite will work.

Don't listen to him, it's only for removing clutches.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

In my case I'm pretty sure I know who the guy is - he worked at a large, local Husky shop for about 18 years and finished his career as a technician at the largest Chevrolet dealership in the area.
I've encountered many of his other "repairs" throughout the years. He's a nice guy but not the brightest bulb in the drawer.
It is interesting though, seeing something that someone did (good or bad) to a machine many years later. I've recently been working
on old McCullochs that were last serviced in the early-mid 80's and I'm seeing some interesting stuff there. Some of the work is atrocious and some is brilliant.

We used to treat the new guy to red lock-tite in his locker padlock , at a steam plant I worked in. Time for the universal key!

 

[fossil]

Works well with any two pawl flywheel I've come across. I use a variety of screws and washers to go with it.

 

[davidwyby]

Took the first of the 266s out to the shop for a sample to make a puller since I couldn’t find mine, and weld the case. I sucked the centers out of the first two washers cuz I made it sloppy and then busted the head off the set screw center bolt. Wow. Lots of heat, tapping, and Kroil. (How much heat is too much?) I used the old method where you smoke, soot the offending part first and then only heat until it burns off. I didn’t really need to pull the flywheel, at least not now, but I wasn’t going to give up.