What's the best way to remove a flywheel?

[Wood Doctor]

Here's another one. I keep a 3" long threaded pipe nipple hat matches the threads on the hub of STihl 066, 650, 660, etc. Not sure why else those threads are there, but they are. I screw on the pipe fitting and tap that with a mallet a few times while slowly rotating the flywheel. It pops right off. I wish other flywheels had the same threads, but they don't.

 

[Mastermind]

Not sure why else those threads are there, but they are.

A 10.00 flywheel puller screws in there....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/274002610766

 

[KennyWinCT]

I think you are supposed to heat the red stuff until it softens, but it takes a lot of heat and might melt seals.

I've always been taught NEVER put anything on the flywheel/crankshaft tapered mating surfaces. Some people throw a little never-sieze on there for good measure just to have it wick out over time creating a gap between the surfaces which eventually leads to end play knocking , sheared keys or broken flywheels.

 

[Mastermind]

I clean the bore, and the taper on the crank with degreaser.....but that's it.

 

[angelo c]

A 10.00 flywheel puller screws in there....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/274002610766

hey $10 bucks... is $10 bucks.... so you rich pig renters/leasing agents might not understand

 

[Al Smith]

Red takes about 4oo degrees to release it .On the hub of a flywheel it most likely would not get the crankshaft hot enough to affect the seal .IMO the difference between aluminum ability to transfer heat it would absorb most of the heat .

 

[Wood Doctor]

hey $10 bucks... is $10 bucks.... so you rich pig renters/leasing agents might not understand

Actually, I have to wonder how many know that the thread on the Stihl 660 series flywheel is a typical pipe thread standard. I discovered it by accident.

 

[Al Smith]

The two threads I'm familiar with on Stihls are M22 1.5 and M26 1.5 .They might be close to pipe threads but they won't be right on .Pipe threads, NPT as such have a 3/4" per foot taper .

 

[Homemade]

Many methods work with some engines but not with others. Here's a method for a Husqvarna 51 that works every time for me:
View attachment 207374
I tap once or twice on the flat blade screwdriver with a hammer and then rotate the wheel 90 degrees and tap again. After about 3/4 the way around or so, the wheel pops right off. On other engines, this method has failed, but I usually try it anyway because it is so harmless.

I’ve done this.

Flywheel removal tools.

View attachment 198461

I had one hell of a time with the black double ended one on my 090G. The crankshaft was too long for the center pusher bolt to grab any threads on the tool. Ended up using the Stihl factory tool that looks like the gold one on the left.


I don’t like wacking on the nut protecting the end of the crankshaft. I gooberrd a crank shaft up from not hitting the nut square enough and then it cocked the nut, basically doing a full on cross thread. Now I use a center punch. Most cranks have center hole from turning in a lathe. I still leave the nut on a few turns for safety sake.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I can't believe I've read this thread this far and nobody has mentioned the method I use to remove 90% of the flywheels: Loosen or remove the nut and take a small hammer and tap on the non-magnet edge of the flywheel, being careful not to hit the fins, and most flywheels pop right off. I removed one yesterday on a Stihl MS250 and I didn't have to tap very hard to get it to pop loose....This doesn't work well on recessed flywheels however...

 

[Fishnuts2]

I can't believe I've read this thread this far and nobody has mentioned the method I use to remove 90% of the flywheels: Loosen or remove the nut and take a small hammer and tap on the non-magnet edge of the flywheel, being careful not to hit the fins, and most flywheels pop right off. I removed one yesterday on a Stihl MS250 and I didn't have to tap very hard to get it to pop loose....

A Poulan service manual from the '60's recommended this method.

 

[jakethesnake]

I wasn't serious about the tannerite.

however in theory it’s not wrong. It’ll remove one.

 

[Al Smith]

It just depends on how you look at things .I've made all kinds of gizmos and gadgets and even bought several .For example a puller to remove the rear brake drums on a Jeep CJ5 which are on a tapered keyed axle .I could have heated them up and thump on them with a brass hammer for half an hour or use the puller and do the job in 5 minutes .
The wizards of Stihl had the bright idea to make things that required special tools that they thought they controlled .They failed to think about "yankee engenuity " ,they aren't that smart just think they are . I enjoy out smarting them .
It was years ago since I made the first Stihl puller and at that time to buy one was expensive .How days you can land one for less than 10 dollars .

 

[beaglebriar]

This works good on huskies. Made it on the mill at work but it could be easily made with a drill press and a little patience.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Brass hammer and the right touch. Don't forget to hold the unit by the flywheel as you tap the crank. Pulling tools made for the job are always your best bet. If not, out comes the 3lb. brass encouragement.

 

[Al Smith]

The way I see it is thumping with a BFH shocks the dickens out of the crank bearings .If you ding a bearing ball it will only be a matter of time until the bearing will fail .I've seen machine repair people who are supposed to be skilled trades hammer in a bearing like it was a railroad spike and of course before long it failed . I'm just a fuss about it I guess .

 

[Nutball]

The way I see it is thumping with a BFH shocks the dickens out of the crank bearings .If you ding a bearing ball it will only be a matter of time until the bearing will fail .I've seen machine repair people who are supposed to be skilled trades hammer in a bearing like it was a railroad spike and of course before long it failed . I'm just a fuss about it I guess .

 

[MustangMike]

Using a puller for flywheels and bearings is always best, but sometimes you just have to use what works and what you have.

In addition, common sense is your best friend.

If the puller seems to be getting too tight and nothing is moving, a few light taps will often work to free things up. (That is what I had to do to remove the inner race on the disintegrated bearing on my log spitter.) It can also work on flywheels. The light taps, while it is under "pull pressure" seem to work exceedingly well.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

A Poulan service manual from the '60's recommended this method.

It works on most saws except maybe some older Homelites with the really big flywheels that are stuck to the crank...

 

[Gypo Logger]

The way I see it is thumping with a BFH shocks the dickens out of the crank bearings .If you ding a bearing ball it will only be a matter of time until the bearing will fail .I've seen machine repair people who are supposed to be skilled trades hammer in a bearing like it was a railroad spike and of course before long it failed . I'm just a fuss about it I guess .

Al, do you still have that hoof rasp I lent ya at wood junkies? Lol