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mainer_in_ak

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Whats your cheap saw fix?

I like runnin and wrenching on the grey cs 6700's cs 670's and cs 8000's. Quality Made in Japan parts are readily available from scores of online vendors and the saws are cheap.

They cut good, really wake up with basic mods, are easy to work on and have filthy good oilers. Manual oilers too. The round automotive style filters flow well and never let in dust.

Unlimited coils on all and ive never seen one fail.

I've milled with em and cut lots of firewood. The cs 8000 even made it's way on a paid job last year, where I had to plunge cut 32" diameter leaning cottonwoods with a 36" bar.

Paid $400 for my cs 8000 $220 for my cs 670, $120 for my 6700 type 1 e, and $240 for my mint cs 6700 (in mill frame).

The 6700 type 1 e is torn down for a rebuild.

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mainer_in_ak

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milling white spruce with the $240 6700.
Base gasket delete.
Ignition advanced
Muffler opened up
Intake widened, lower transfers opened up, exauhst widened and only raised to to factory bevel.

G777 small mill
Gb 20" 3/8 low profile milling bar, gb 3/8 lp rim sprocket, redbeard bar adapter, stihl pmx 3/8 lp riping.

She just sings through bar-length Alaska birch and white spruce. That small exauhst port, pretty lame fart-knocker exauhst tone though.
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mainer_in_ak

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Random CS 8000 observations:
Entire fkn things are solid magnesium cinder blocks. Yes even the recoil, and the fuel tank are magnesium.

Once you start peeling back the mundane cinder block lines:
The flywheel is a sophisticated work of art. Never seen lines like that on on a flywheel on any other saw.

Wherever a wire passes through something solid, a nice rubber grommet protects it from vibration damage. Even at the unlimited coil, a rubber grommet is integral to the housing where the plug wire enters the coil.
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