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What would make this seal tear? (036)

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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What's would make this OEM seal tear?

I built this 036 from the ground up. Case split, new OEM bearings and seals.

Seals oiled before pushing in. I put electric tape over the crank threads and keyway before sliding the seal over as to not damage the lip.

The PTO bearing was frozen, the oil pump attached, and the case heated. The bearing literally dropped right in and the pump set its depth.

No play in the bearings at all. I don't not believe that the seal lip rolled out during assembly.

Here's the jug. Just 25 from the band to clean it up and a base cut to get squish to .019 with an oem base gasket.

Timing with gasket came in at 106/126/80. Muffler modded and key advanced .025. No port work at all.

IMG-20170422-WA0028.jpeg IMG-20170422-WA0038.jpeg
 

drf256

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Here's the video. The saw starts out set to 14300. It's painfully long. At about 1:15 it starts to leak, you'll see me start to richen it after each cut, then you'll see it idleing at about 8000 rpm when the air leak s becomes massive.

 
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drf256

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Here's some pics of where the bearing is located in the case. Again, it's brandy new. I think I may have pushed the seal in too deep and the crank caught the inner part. It's all I can think of.

The 036 has a step in the crank that a washer and sleeve sit against to locate the oil pump worm gear. So as long as the seal is past that stop, it shouldn't rub on the washer.

IMG-20170416-WA0057.jpeg IMG-20170424-WA0025.jpeg
 

malk315

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Whole new learning opportunity thanks for sharing Al. The end idling at 8000 as it draws more and more air and less fuel... Primitive version of strato ;)

Hope you get to a root cause. I'm thinking bad seal I agree that you are very precise about things. Hopefully nothing is catching that seal.

BTW my 262 was throwing chips like mad saw at GTG with Dan's square chain... And no leaky tank didn't even stink during the car ride.


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