High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

What oil is best? and what ratio?

Ron660

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I haven't been to a gym in years. I used to go all the time before I got married and had kids. Over the years I slowly gained about 20lbs. My weight always fluctuated with the seasons between 230 and 240. Last January I decided enough was enough. I'm still not going to the gym but I have completely changed my eating.
I now eat every 3-4 hrs. I eat small high protein low carb meals. I've cut back on lots of little things like how much sugar is in my coffee and I'm now using 5% cream instead of 10%. Almost no bread.
As of this morning I'm down to 208lbs. I'd like to drop another 20lbs. I haven't been this light in 20yrs. I haven't been under 200lbs since grade 9.
Sounds like my history in lifting. My max weight was 238. ...fairly lean...waist wore 33" pants. Benched 3-sets of 8 reps w/ 315lbs. Squatted 3-sets of 6 reps/ 405 lbs. Then leg pressed 4-sets of 8 reps w/1065 lbs. I'm lucky I have any cartilage left in my body. My roommate competed in power lifting. He made me look weak.
 

Cut4fun

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Stocked up on Poulan Synthetic 2 stroke 1 gal bottles of mix.

After talking with locals over time I have learned most only mix 1gal or 2gal at a time.

Also I have to retune another saw coming back from me tuning on my KL-200 Klotz 100% Synthetic at 32:1. Then them mixing up Dino oil 50:1 and running it in their saw. Now saw wont idle and is to rich.
This is only the 2nd or 3rd time it has happened over the years.

But now I will mix a gal of this 40:1 Poulan Synthetic to tune other folks EQ too. Plus have on hand to sell them so they are not going to 50:1.

Notice in small letters bottom left 2nd pic Husqvarna Product Inc.

poulanoil 002.JPG poulanoil 003.JPG
 

Keith Gandy

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Stocked up on Poulan Synthetic 2 stroke 1 gal bottles of mix.

After talking with locals over time I have learned most only mix 1gal or 2gal at a time.

Also I have to retune another saw coming back from me tuning on my KL-200 Klotz 100% Synthetic at 32:1. Then them mixing up Dino oil 50:1 and running it in their saw. Now saw wont idle and is to rich.
This is only the 2nd or 3rd time it has happened over the years.

But now I will mix a gal of this 40:1 Poulan Synthetic to tune other folks EQ too. Plus have on hand to sell them so they are not going to 50:1.

Notice in small letters bottom left 2nd pic Husqvarna Product Inc.

View attachment 17698 View attachment 17699
Husqvarna oil?
 

wildroamer

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Not seeing it at 3.2 oz for anywhere close to $1.41, but I may just suck at googling....
 

Cut4fun

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I got it today. Retail 3.2oz is $1.48 now. 16.9oz $7.88 or $7.98

I paid a buck per same amounts more so I could have individual bottles for folks.

$1.41 was almost 3 years ago.
 

Cut4fun

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Maybe it's the Husky Low-smoke?

Just seen a blend version too. So it may be the low smoke or XP oil.

71GWG65i-eL._SL1000_.jpg
 

Cut4fun

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I had to pay tax today. But it was $1.48 a bottle. So add another .12 and make it $1.60 in hand. Comes 12 in a box. Dont have to buy the box but I did.


Here ya go. :p


poulanoil 002.JPG
 

Ron660

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I just posted this over on the octane gas test thread. http://opeforum.com/threads/octane-gas-test-661.1847/

but I think it's very relevant here.

A gentleman who works at a refinery PM'd me with some interesting info...

The different temps may be due to the differences in blend components when it is "assembled" at the refinery. The high speed blending unit we have at the refinery I work at is very accurate and automated, but the blend components change depending on season and what is in the inventory in the tank farm. :) Good test Redbull, thank you.
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I asked some questions and some more response...

In our blending plant they make each octane grade ( Three grades) to the government specifications for Octane, contaminant/water , Vapor pressure, non corrosiveness, etc. So the higher octane fuel typically uses more of the high octane components to make it which are usually more expensive to make. They also add products to prevent corrosion and help lubrication if needed. This is all before it gets loaded into the trucks.
Once it gets to the truck rack and is ready to be loaded onto the truck, the proprietary additive package is metered and mixed into the fuel as it is loaded into the truck tanker. ( Shell additive, Chevron additive, generic additive, etc.) So until it is on the truck, it is a standard blend for this refinery meeting the Government specs. The additive packages really do make a difference on things like engine cleanliness and lubrication. (There is a minimum spec that even the generic gasolines have to meet to be sold on the market : Costco, Fred Meyer, etc, all meet that spec with the generic additive) The generic is not a bad additive, it is just not as good as the top tier additive and is typically metered in at the lowest level to meet Govt regs). I use generic quite often and just throw in some fuel system cleaner once in a while.

So far as the color differences, some additive packages have different dyes or colorants in them to make the fuel distinctive in color. The different refineries all blend a little different depending on how they are set up so far as blend components also.

The test results that surprised me the most was the temperature differences..... so I think it is probably the blend components coming out of the tank farm that are different depending on which refinery makes the fuel. ( The blend may effect the temp being produced by the saw I suppose). Some components are higher octane, or cleaner coming from each different unit in the refinery. Some refineries are short on one product or long on another, so they use as much of the stuff they have lots of, and as little as possible on the stuff they are short on. So in the end, they meet the government specs at each refinery, but the component blend will vary somewhat by facility. Nothing bad or good is trying to be done, it is just how the places work :) So, you might find one brand at a station that gets their fuel from a refinery that your saw really likes or just down the road another blend from a different refinery that your saw doesn't like. Then it changes over the seasons because of cold weather (RVP numbers) They put more light stuff in during winter so the engines start easier.

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Redbull says -

So 91 would be less corrosive and have less contaminants than 87 or 89?


So 91 should run cleanest? Vs 87 or 89 (most likely)


So 91 should have a little more lubrication than 87 or 89?
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His response...
The 91 89 and 87 will all be about the same for corrosiveness, they just need to meet a minimum standard so they do not harm a fuel system, :)
the 91/92 octane that Shell sells has a lot more detergents in it than the 87 and 89 since it is their flagship product, but all will help clean a cars engine inside ( Carbon on injectors and combustion chamber, pistons, etc.)

I am not sure about other brands of gasoline. Some may just be higher octane with the same amount of detergents. Chevron and 76 also have very good additives from what I have heard.

The lubrication standard is also a government minimum type thing, so I think the lubricity would be very close between the different octane grades.
----------------------------------------------------
Redbull says -

here I found something...gotta think about it for a bit... " Buy gasoline during coolest time of day - early morning or late evening is best. During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind - gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to "volume of measurement".

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His Response...

Yeah, that makes sense that you would get more gasoline for your buck when it is cold.

I run premium fuel in all my outdoor power equipment..... I think it is well worth the small extra bit of money.
Think I'll stay with my 93 non-E. Thanks
 

Ron660

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Time for me to stir the pot a bit....

Now that I've got a couple of nicely ported saws what oil do you guys suggest?

I've been running Lucas semi synthetic at 40:1 with
e free 91 octane fuel for a while now. Seems to be ok. The inside of my saws look nice and oily with out much carbon below the piston crown.

I'm just wondering if I should maybe try something else. What do you guys think?

My options are kinda limited around here. I have easy access to the following oils
Echo
Stihl
Castrol
Lucas
Yamalube
Motul
Motul 710 then try 800 off-road. 91 non-E is a good choice too.
 

Canadian farm boy

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Motul 710 then try 800 off-road. 91 non-E is a good choice too.
Motul isn't easy for me to get. I'd have to order it from somewhere.
I'm leaning towards trying the Amsoil saber. From what Ive read It's supposed to be 100% synthetic plus it has fuel stabilizers.
I'm gonna try and get a quart of the Amsoil later this week.

How bad can the stuff really be??? @junkman likes it.
 

Ron660

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Been back in the gym about 3 weeks now but im not tryin to be Arnold but just decent shape and feel good. At my age and as busy as I am Im content with being fat and happy!!:cunaooooo:
At our age, the goal should be controlling body weight. Being overweight leads to high blood pressure, diabetes, and other health issues. Ok, back to chainsaw stuff.....as my wife says "non-sense".
 

Ron660

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Motul isn't easy for me to get. I'd have to order it from somewhere.
I'm leaning towards trying the Amsoil saber. From what Ive read It's supposed to be 100% synthetic plus it has fuel stabilizers.
I'm gonna try and get a quart of the Amsoil later this week.

How bad can the stuff really be??? @junkman likes it.
I order Motul from ebay or Amazon. Saber should be an excellent oil.
 

Canadian farm boy

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That's what I'd have to do also. eBay or Amazon. The shipping makes it stupid expensive.

Anyone ever try Amsoil dominator???
 
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