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What kind of chain do you use on your CSM?

What do you use for milling, dedicated ripping chain or something else?

  • Dedicated ripping chain full comp

    Votes: 9 69.2%
  • Dedicated ripping chain full skip

    Votes: 2 15.4%
  • Full skip, full chisel square filed/ground

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Full skip, full chisel round filed

    Votes: 1 7.7%
  • Semi-chisel skip

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Semi-chisel full comp

    Votes: 1 7.7%

  • Total voters
    13

Wolverine

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Question about the Grandberg mills
When they advertise 30" or 36" or 48", does that designate the max bar length it will hold?
I believe that's correct. Just for info purposes, my 36/37"(119 dl chain) bar will mill about 31" max without felling dogs.
 

Brewz

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No that measurement is how long the runners are. I have a 36" mill. my 36" bar has a sprocket nose and you can't clamp on the sprocket so you lose some width of the cut from that and you have to remove the dogs from you saw and will still lose a inch or so in your final width

Thats the info I was after
Thanks
 

295 tramp

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A picture is worth a 1000 words.
20160417_093220.jpg


As to the question is the size mill for that size bar.
My mill is a 36" my cannon is a double ended 50"
My stihl bar is 36" but I will not clamp it on the sprocket.
Notice on the cannon I set it up to bolt it through the bar instead of clamping it. It makes for faster and easier chain changes. I haven't done that yet to the stihl bar
 

Al Smith

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What little I've done has been with a Granberg clamp on mini and a Mac 125 with full comp round chisel .I can get about a foot a minute on 16- 18" oak .Other than an odd short log worth salvaging I find CSM to be a pain in the behind .
 

Wolverine

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It's very useful to me because I have no access to the equipment to get a large log out of the woods. I am finding out I need a gas mask! Or an extended long tube exhaust mod.
 

295 tramp

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I have no access to the equipment to get a large log out of the woods
+1 on your statement I find logs still in the brush plus I like leaving the mess out there to.
Defiantly a need for a respirator while milling.
 

redoakneck

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If you have a leaf blower, set it up to blow the chips and exhaust in the direction you are milling, keeps dust and fumes away.

I drilled a 7/16" hole in the center of the nose sprocket, used a 41" bar, on a 36" mill. I can mill 32-32.5" wide, and I have space between the saw and log to dissipate chips and fumes
 

Jimmy in NC

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A picture is worth a 1000 words.
View attachment 19341


As to the question is the size mill for that size bar.
My mill is a 36" my cannon is a double ended 50"
My stihl bar is 36" but I will not clamp it on the sprocket.
Notice on the cannon I set it up to bolt it through the bar instead of clamping it. It makes for faster and easier chain changes. I haven't done that yet to the stihl bar
What size bolts did you use to bolt the mill to the bar? I am thinking of using 5/16"
Question about the Grandberg mills
When they advertise 30" or 36" or 48", does that designate the max bar length it will hold?
My 30" mill really needs a 36" bar and cut almost 28".
 
Last edited:

mdavlee

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27" was max I got on the 30" with no spikes and a 34" bar. I used 5/16" on the homemade mill I had. It was a little heavier and after I got the Granberg on craigslist cheap enough I used the metal for other stuff.
 

redoakneck

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IMG_20160421_143051126.jpg

This side shows the hour meter/ temp gauge. Temp not hooked up right now.

That 15' slab took 11 minutes to mill. Pine, pretty soft stuff.@30" wide.
 
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redoakneck

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how hard was the motorcycle throttle to do? I'm planning that mod for my 084..

Wasn't too difficult once I found the throttle I liked. Only takes 1/4 twist forward for full throttle. I copied it from someone on AS years ago. Throttle cable goes thru bottom of handle and there is a bracket there to end the cable. Don't remember it all.
 

burkesw

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View attachment 19735

This side shows the hour meter/ temp gauge. Temp not hooked up right now.

That 15' slab took 11 minutes to mill. Pine, pretty soft stuff.@30" wide.

Very nice rig you've got there. I like the weights on the opposite side to keep the mill balanced.

I've seen set-ups with the saw recoil facing up (pushing the chain) but mostly I see the recoil facing the ground (saw pulling the chain), what's best? Just personal preference? I'm new to milling and thought that having the saw recoil facing up would be better since the oiler is closest and you don't have to worry about loosing oil on the turn. An Aux oiler makes that less of a problem but why did you choose to have the saw recoil up instead of down?
 

Terry Hennessy

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I am curious what the general consensus is on milling chain. To this point, I have used a loop of full skip full chisel Stihl, square filed. After sustaining damage from a piece of metal a few months ago in my ash tree, I had to file away some damage on one side only. Today I went through 4-5 .22 bullets in a large pine log. It severely dulled the chain, but did not damage further. But now, one side is way off from the other, creating more problems. So I'm looking to pick up a 2nd chain for milling. Question is... do I buy dedicated ripping chain??
Most likely mail order is your best source of ripping chain. OPE? or Baileys?
 
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