Troy bilt tomahawk super chipper shredder

[Sawyer94]

So we can be rude over the internet, but then when someone calls us out we get our panties in a wad? Pretty entertaining so far. Saying thanks for your input after being very rude and condescending is like Ricky Bobby saying no offense and saying something very offensive. No one owes you anything on here. Better get a nicer attitude or you’ll have a real hard time on here.


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Lol wow I got the *s-word end of the stick with you 2.

"I need pictures"

"Actually it's something else"

"Bearing or you got the wrong belt"

It was clear he didnt know what he was talking about so I tried to kindly thank him for trying. Noone owes me anything but atleast show some decency. I dont need anyones help with this anymore I have it figured out. So again thanks for trying
A+ for effort from the both of you.

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[tp2177]

Lol wow I got the *s-word end of the stick with you 2.

"I need pictures"

"Actually it's something else"

"Bearing or you got the wrong belt"

It was clear he didnt know what he was talking about so I tried to kindly thank him for trying. Noone owes me anything but atleast show some decency. I dont need anyones help with this anymore I have it figured out. So again thanks for trying
A+ for effort from the both of you.

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Good luck getting help from any one with experience in the future on here. People do this out of the kindness of their hearts and thinking you know more than everyone else doesn’t fly around here. Glad you got it figured out and with your entitled attitude I hope you “know it all” in the future cause you got a lot of learning to do.


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[tp2177]

Oh and even if someone doesn’t know the exact answer, which I feel like fish would’ve been very resourceful for you, they maybe throw out some guesses to give you a “free bump” to keep your thread up towards the top so real “experienced” people will have a chance to see it easily. You get a reputation to bash anyone that makes a suggestion and you’ll get no help from anyone.


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[Sawyer94]

Oh and even if someone doesn’t know the exact answer, which I feel like fish would’ve been very resourceful for you, they maybe throw out some guesses to give you a “free bump” to keep your thread up towards the top so real “experienced” people will have a chance to see it easily. You get a reputation to bash anyone that makes a suggestion and you’ll get no help from anyone.


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I'm sure ill be fine.

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[tp2177]

Let’s hope so [emoji1303]


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[Mastermind]

Simmer down in here.

 

[alleyyooper]

OK here is a picture, it has a 5hp TECU engine so isn't the super which is the 8 HP engine.

Mine has a centrifugal clutch on it from the factory.

A parts break down and part numbers listing. You will have to blow it up to read it.You will also need a new part number for the different belt.

OOPs wrong parts diagram.

Here is a link to the owners manual that tells how to adjust the (Lever) clutch.

http://www.brentchalmers.com/Manuals/1989Troy-BiltTomahawkChipperShredderOwnerOperatorManual.pdf

the belt.
orginal belt part number 97133 is a 5/8 X 29 1/4 belt I went thru several brands befor I settled on Kevlar belt from Belts are US.

Al

 

[alleyyooper]

OH my Gawd $200.00.

http://okhardwarestore.com/index.ph...d=1396&zenid=109e3e01fd3002d31ef2bd134f15859e


I would shot for a clutch that kicks in at about 1800 RPM, Which my factore clutch does. Keep inmind you need a belt drive not a chain drive.

Al

 

[Fish]

The unit worked fine as designed.Re-designing it is costly, {R & D}.
You need to try a good Kevlar belt and check the bearings on the pulleys/etc...
And run it like it was designed.

 

[Fish]

A centrifigul clutch setup may work, but the shock load would be @ the same, slippage/heat @ the same. The original belt may have had different angles on the face of the belt, but new pulleys or the original belt would be the only fix.

 

[alleyyooper]

The pulleys other than the clutch pulley on that machine are mounted on the engine shaft useing a Key so it doesn't spin.
Same thing on the lower shave with the knives the pulley is mounted useing a key. so there are no bearings on the pulleys.

Just putting a centrifugal clutch on should prolong belt life just for the fact the clutch comes in slowly at 1800 RPM and is the shock of the lever moving a pulley on a bearing.

Al

 

[Larry B]

Ain't got a dog in this but my 11hp chipper/shredder is direct drive. Motor turns, drum turns. Not sure why the tomahawk needs a slip belt clutch?? The belt on mine is pretty tight. Not banjo string tight but still pretty tight. Seems like a good kevlar belt with the proper tension on the idler would fix it. I doubt a centrifugal clutch would even work well. They like a steady load like a go cart. Not a hammering load like a chipper. Of course, as usual, free advice from some random guy on the internet.

 

[tp2177]

Mine is like alleyoopers but I guess it is the super because it has an 8 hp engine. I’ve never had mine running so I can’t be sure but I think the tensioner arm is a safety feature. This one doesn’t self feed from my research and came with a plastic “pusher” from the factory. my only guess is to why you can disengage the chipper is for safety/jam? Never ran anything through mine so not sure. Once I found out it doesn’t self feed I wasn’t as enthusiastic about getting it running. I’m accident prone and like all my appendages.


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[Jimmy in NC]

Trying to figure out how to do this.

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Ok...lots of misinformation here.

Some belts can be loaded from the rear and others cannot. Anyone that has used an alternative Snapper Rear Engine Rider belt knows they do not last. They tension from behind with an idler and swinging a 33" high vac blade is every bit and then some of your chipper.. OEM belts generally last best on power equipment.

The squeak...its not an issue. If you think it is, engage it at a lower rpm. You should hear twin 75hp electric motors starting the fan on our asphalt plant or a 4' asphalt mill powered by 400hp kicking in gear...squeak!

I wager you have a bad bearing in an idler that may get hot and seize and/or worn out or heavily pitted pulley faces. Idlers may spin free cold but when hot seize up. Seen that on mowers several times. Worn/pitted or rusty pulleys will also chew belts. It may be one spot on one pulley where a belt sat and held moisture.

I would run the machine 10-15 minutes and then check the belt. Look for wear marks or rubber debris. Let it tell you what the issue is. Is there a flat spot from starting (the squeak)?

Where I would start.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

OK here is a picture, it has a 5hp TECU engine so isn't the super which is the 8 HP engine.

Mine has a centrifugal clutch on it from the factory.

A parts break down and part numbers listing. You will have to blow it up to read it.You will also need a new part number for the different belt.

OOPs wrong parts diagram.

Here is a link to the owners manual that tells how to adjust the (Lever) clutch.

http://www.brentchalmers.com/Manuals/1989Troy-BiltTomahawkChipperShredderOwnerOperatorManual.pdf

the belt.
orginal belt part number 97133 is a 5/8 X 29 1/4 belt I went thru several brands befor I settled on Kevlar belt from Belts are US.

Al

Look at PDF page #32. Very detailed belt tension adjustment. I have found when that much care is given on an adjustment, its critical.


Another thing to check is do all the pulleys and idler line up? It looks like they are just set screwed to the shafts. A misalignment would also cause poor life.

 

[alleyyooper]

First off all the Super Tomhawk chipper shredders are not the same.
Serial numbers are important to get the correct part for yours.

If you watch the You tubes I posted you will see the ones have a couple different ways to sngauge the belt.

As I said earlier my has a centrical clutch. I thought it was just a Tomahawk chippler/shredder till I put it to work yesterday.



I thought the ones with the 8 HP engines were supers but mine had a 5 HP engine.


Al

 

[Littlebear15]

I’m a bit late to this thread but found it researching a conversion of a TROY BILT Super tomahawk to a centrifugal clutch. If you search

Noram 160021 heavy duty pulley centrifugal clutch 1” bore

you’ll find it for $135.00 on Amazon. This info was given to me by a Briggs and Stratton repair center as a clutch that will work on their 8 hp engines that originally came with a belt clutch system. The eight hp engines have a 1 inch shaft. The five hp engines are 3-4 inch so this clutch is only for eight hp models. That said I have finally found a 5/8 x 29 inch Kevlar belt that has actually lasted three days with no sign of wear. If they hold up I may change my mind about the clutch conversion although I do like the idea. I just keep thinking about trying to get an almost thirty year old pulley off the engine drive shaft with my limited arsenal of tools.
The belts are in the garage. I’ll give the brand and I D info tomorrow. To lazy to go out there in the dark. Hope this helps. I have been on a quest and this info seems solid.

 

[MarylandGuy]

I want to thank everyone here for their input on the Troy-Built Tomahawk. I too own an older unit, probably from the mid 1980's. The model number is 10941.

I have owned the unit for about five years. I bought it from an estate sale after the original owner died. The original Briggs engine works perfectly. The only issue I found was the missing belt when I picked it up.

Like a lot of people that own this chipper, I have bought a lot of different belts, hoping to find one that lasts. I too have experienced rapidly shredding belts. I have checked the bearings and found them to be perfect. I then checked belt alignment to see if the belt was being stressed. Everything seemed to be in line. I checked the pulleys for excessive wear. Nothing was evident.

After reading this thread, I may give the clutch pulley mod a shot. I really love the chipper, but shredding belts every hour makes the experience probably not worth it.

In regards to belts I have bought, as with a lot of people I went to an auto parts store to start. The Napa branded belt from Mexico 5L280W only lasted about 20 min. I then read Kevlar belts were the best, so I went on a search. I think I bought a belt from Mahindra USA which got good ratings. It was packaged A&I Products, which didn't last 20 min as well.

I finally visited a local rubber supply wholesaler who sold me a Thermoid Prime Mover Belt. I am not sure if it is a Kevlar belt, but it was by far the best belt I tried. From what I read, Thermoid makes a lot of OEM belts for the small engine power products market. I have since stuck with that brand, but they still seem to break within an hour or two. Here is an Amazon link to the belt I use:
www.amazon.com/HBD-Thermoid-Prime-Mover-Rubber/dp/B0027141BY

Lastly, I found a Thermoid product PDF that shows they make an even stronger belt called Maxipower. I may look into that next time. Here is the PDF:

http://www.thermoid.com/wp-content/...Belts-Brochure-06-30-2015-Screen-Version-.pdf

 

[alleyyooper]

You sure do ruin a lot of belts. I have never heard of any one else that own one who has had that much belt problems.

Personally I would just change out all the bearings and pulleys and start all over.
Or just sell the thing and buy a new Bear Cat model by Echo.
http://www.bearcatproducts.com/Products/ChipperShredders/SC3206Chipper-Shredder

Al

 

[MarylandGuy]

Your suggestion is probably sound advice. Though I have a motocross racing background. I am used to checking and swapping bearings in the swingarm and wheels of my bikes. My Tomahawk bearings are very smooth with no play.

If I opt for the clutched pulley, I think I will swap the bearings and of course the other pulley as well. I do love the machine when it's working. It's built like a tank!