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Troublesome 034

cus_deluxe

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so ive had this 034 super for a while now. Supposedly it ran last year etc.. Carb was filthy and varnished, fuel line garbage, pulse line fairly hard and not sealing. replaced lines and put new diaphragms in carb. Would only fire with a shot of fuel down the carb. Would run perfectly fine, idle normally. No cold restart.
Cleaned carb again, no luck, bought new zama c3a. New carb has compensating metering chamber cover, i swapped this out for the original cover. Now saw starts sort of, but runs rough and extremely rich, lots of spitback. My main question is, are there any internal differences in one of these "intellicarbs" vs the standard metering chamber cover?
 

Stump Shot

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I've found that the cold start issue on these saws to stem from the control lever not fully closing the actual choke plate on the carburetor all the way. Some will if you fidget with them a bit, check this for function. As far as I understand it, as long as the cover is vented to atmospheric air it should work. Guess I have to ask as it does not say, did you try tuning the carburetor to the engine? If not this must be done.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys, this one had the same issue, a little bend in the rod fixed that for now. i did get it to start earlier on its own, but run only for 30 seconds before bogging out and spitting fuel back out to the carb. Flywheel is located properly, lots of spark, good pressure and vac. Maybe ill try swapping out needle valve and spring between the two?
 

cus_deluxe

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Hey ted! Nope only this damn thing. Seems obvious its fuel related and weird it seemingly went from getting no fuel at idle with old carb, to way too much fuel with the new carb. Pain in the arse
 

MustangMike

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The snorkel carbs should be the same as the others, can either block the snorkel, cover it with a piece of cloth (I used a cleaning patch and a rubber band), or change the cover.

However, many of the AM carbs are tough to tune.

I had a 460 I could not get to start. Finally figured out the choke lever was not working properly. Drilled the darn control lever and inserted some metal and have not had any problems with it since!
 

cus_deluxe

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Check the intake side piston.
Ill give it a check sir, though im guessing its gonna be clean, this saw looks like its barely been used, spent most of its life in a shed. Exhaust sode is spotless, and what i can see of intake side of cylinder through exhaust port is clean as well.
 

cus_deluxe

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I'm wondering since the lines were so bad that the seals are also bad. I'm picturing an extremely rich carb setting to compensate for an unknown air leak.
Saw is nice and tight on pressure and vac.
Check the intake side piston.
Just checked it a bit ago while messing with it, machine marks visible all the way.
 

cus_deluxe

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Did get this thing to run, after about 47 pulls...i didnt check the hi and lo screws on the new one to compare to originals, it seems as though they are different, or something in the passages is different. I kept turning screws and pulling and pulling. Finally started and ran decent at 3 turns out or so. The original carb ran really nice (after primer with gas down the carb) on a little over one turn out...
 

cus_deluxe

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When i though it was running rich before it mustve been running way lean and i cant tell the difference :(. The real test will be if it will restart tomorrow in less than 47 pulls.
 

cus_deluxe

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doesnt explain the spitback from earlier though
 
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