Trees you've cut

[HumBurner]

Hell yeah, Dan! Lookin good!

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I'm not gonna recount all the decisions that led to me doing this, but on Sunday I got to have the honor of knocking down this digger pine for my brother. There were a few major limbs that had to be taken down first, then I scooted down and dropped the spar while my brother hydraulically assisted with the mini ex. Kinda fun, kinda terrifying, I still need more practice/training in the proper ways of doing things but all in all I'd say it was a success.
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It's hard to tell from the photos but if your'e taking down half or more of the tree in one piece you need to be very careful. If the top hits the ground before the hinge breaks your'e in trouble. You probably know this already but I thought I should tell you anyways because I never thought of it myself until someone told me. As far as I was concerned I was just felling trees while tied in to them

 

[Woodslasher]

It's hard to tell from the photos but if your'e taking down half or more of the tree in one piece you need to be very careful. If the top hits the ground before the hinge breaks your'e in trouble. You probably know this already but I thought I should tell you anyways because I never thought of it myself until someone told me. As far as I was concerned I was just felling trees while tied in to them

I did keep that in mind (as I was all to aware that could be the 2nd to last thing to go through my mind, the butt of a log being the last thing) and consulted a pro buddy before I even touched the tree. In this poor quality screenshot of a video my brother took you can see the thing's free n clear before it gets close to touching the ground.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

My new phone has a better camera

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Beech. It wasn't hanging around. Dodgy trees to cut, the hinge just snaps right off.

 

[Catfishclark89]

Just a couple from today. I really should’ve taken more pictures… had several better specimens. But anyway!

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

The "split level" cut.
Was taught it when I did my chainsaw tickets. Never really use it, just as handy to do back cut first with wedges.

 

[Sawdust Man]

The "split level" cut.
Was taught it when I did my chainsaw tickets. Never really use it, just as handy to do back cut first with wedges.


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Interesting.....

That would be useful when wedging smaller trees.

Looks like you done it right.

 

[HumBurner]

The "split level" cut.
Was taught it when I did my chainsaw tickets. Never really use it, just as handy to do back cut first with wedges.


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I'm assuming this is used in a similar fashion as when either undercutting/undermining the undercut OR nipping the holding wood/hinge to twist/turn the tree (specifically for humboldts, but the latter also applies to standard cuts)......??

There's also snipes and Dutchman. I do use a step cut (like what you did) similarly to a snipe when cutting stumps to aid in the direction or speed of fall and encourage it to slide. Especially if I might not put a face in the stump.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I'm assuming this is used in a similar fashion as when either undercutting/undermining the undercut OR nipping the holding wood/hinge to twist/turn the tree (specifically for humboldts, but the latter also applies to standard cuts)......??

There's also snipes and Dutchman. I do use a step cut (like what you did) similarly to a snipe when cutting stumps to aid in the direction or speed of fall and encourage it to slide. Especially if I might not put a face in the stump.

No it's used to fell a backward leaning tree.
The idea is the tree is too small for your bar and felling wedge to fit into the back cut at the same time.
What you do is make your face cut like normal. Then you cut 2/3-3/4 of your back cut, not cutting the whole way across the trunk. With that done you insert your felling lever into the partially made back cut. The tree cannot sit back at this point because there us still a large portion of timber un cut.
You then cut the rest of your back cut, coming in just below the previous section.
At this point your back cut is complete and you can lever the tree over.
It only works on small trees

 

[HumBurner]

No it's used to fell a backward leaning tree.
The idea is the tree is too small for your bar and felling wedge to fit into the back cut at the same time.
What you do is make your face cut like normal. Then you cut 2/3-3/4 of your back cut, not cutting the whole way across the trunk. With that done you insert your felling lever into the partially made back cut. The tree cannot sit back at this point because there us still a large portion of timber un cut.
You then cut the rest of your back cut, coming in just below the previous section.
At this point your back cut is complete and you can lever the tree over.
It only works on small trees

Interesting!

I'll give the video a watch. Makes sense for small trees with no room to wedge or prewedge.


Thanks

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Interesting!

I'll give the video a watch. Makes sense for small trees with no room to wedge or prewedge.


Thanks

It's a neat little trick but like I said this was the first time I have used it since learning it. .
Most of the time the trees you would use this technique on are light enough to just push over. Or you can just back cut first.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Finally got around to felling this big dead spruce tree on my own property.
Look how big the growth rings are, this tree us only 36.
I felled it across an old bog drain, it can stay there forever and act as a bridge for wildlife or for hunters.

 

[davidwyby]

I used the stepped back cut or quarter cut on this spar because the lean was to where my wedge is. Taller than usual wedge (forester?) and plunged thru (gutted) the hinge in case the wedge needed driven deep to overcome the back lean. I think I took a little too much off the hinge post on the right, but it was tough Doug fir.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I used the stepped back cut or quarter cut on this spar because the lean was to where my wedge is. Taller than usual wedge (forester?) and plunged thru (gutted) the hinge in case the wedge needed driven deep to overcome the back lean. I think I took a little too much off the hinge post on the right, but it was tough Doug fir.

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I had never thought of gutting the hinge to be able to drive the wedge further, that's a good one.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

There's a rotten tree for you. Ash. Despite the rot, the outer layer of the first ten feet of this tree was like iron, my climbing spikes would hardly go in.









The landowner came out to help with his fully restored David Brown 990

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I had this dead beech yesterday. The job was to remove the top and leave a pole for woodpeckers etc.
We had to zip line it over the wall due to there being a corrugated asbestos garage roof on the other side

And that’s darn expensive if you make just one little hole in it

 

[woodfarmer]

There's a rotten tree for you. Ash. Despite the rot, the outer layer of the first ten feet of this tree was like iron, my climbing spikes would hardly go in.





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The landowner came out to help with his fully restored David Brown 990



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That was the first tractor my uncle bought when he took over the farm from my Grandpa in ‘64. It too still runs to this day.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Yuk!

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Had fun today.
They said I could just cut and drop.
Walk In, cut down, get paid, leave.
Great job.
Big dead ash.

On a side note the ms400c is a fantastic saw. Way outperforms my 562xp.