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Ketchup

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Is that a fact? I've built a couple of saws. I've had to extract a few broken cylinder bolts. I've never had a stripped cylinder hole in a case, I'm sure others have, but not I. In my experience even though mag is softer than steel, the length of the hole creates a surface area/strength that exceeds the shear strength of the steel bolts. I think the bolt is the stretchy part.
I’ve seen several stripped case holes. 066, 372, 200t. Probably from someone using too much torque starting the bolt (like if the bore flange is sitting on the case wrong), using too short of a bolt, or a loose bolt wallowing the hole. Taking jugs on and off a bunch for porting makes me worry about the case threads. Using an impact could definitely cause destruction as well.
 

Junk Meister

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Is that a fact? I've built a couple of saws. I've had to extract a few broken cylinder bolts. I've never had a stripped cylinder hole in a case, I'm sure others have, but not I. In my experience even though mag is softer than steel, the length of the hole creates a surface area/strength that exceeds the shear strength of the steel bolts. I think the bolt is the stretchy part.
Looking for that EMOJi with a thoughtfully raised eyebrow.
Ford 2 liter in the 80's REQUIRED that NEW head bolts be used. (NOTE the contradiction--" :) NEW has to be USED:)") ..there are others before that but it is the first time I made note of it.
 

Outback

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Happy you figured out bolts stretch.

As regards whether soft material can hold hard bolts, well I disagree. The more threads you have in a hole the more the load is distributed into the material its threaded into. Its a question of bolt diameter relative to shear strength and length as much as it is bolt material and the material its threaded into as to whether the failure point is the bolt or its threaded hole. If it wasn't, all bolts would be short to save money. Fine vs coarse threads also matters. Don't bring Ford into this, that's just unkind.

I've seen lots of stripped dogs, starters, covers etc, holes, just not cylinder holes. And yet I've seen cylinder bolts missing heads. Never broke one myself so who knows. Should be impossible as the magnesium couldn't possibly win.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Tree Monkey question:
If 2 identical saws were ported: same exauhst roof same transfers same intake timing.

One saw had .040 squish and more timing advance

Other saw has .020 squish and less timing advance.

How differently would the two saws run? Could someone even tell the difference?
 

tree monkey

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Tree Monkey question:
If 2 identical saws were ported: same exauhst roof same transfers same intake timing.

One saw had .040 squish and more timing advance

Other saw has .020 squish and less timing advance.

How differently would the two saws run? Could someone even tell the difference?
sounds fun
document your work and post it up here
 

edisto

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lots of talk about screws and holes
if husky's need them, why don't any other saws?

Maybe we need separate bolts, screws, and holes threads for each brand to spread out the trolling?

On a separate note...where did you find that seal puller?
 

2000ssm6

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Scott, have you got ahold of a 400.1 yet?
 

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ZERO

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Some thoughts, takeaways and questions answered...

... One thing to note for folks just getting into 5 series repairs, for the ignition coil reinstallation the gap is not like the older series of Husqvarna of .3mm, instead the 5 series utilize a .2mm air gap on the coil to flywheel. Husqvarna offers gauges for both, or if you have a Stihl .2mm gauge that will work as well. ...

Steve spot on, had my 540 opened for cleaning, .1mm spacer shim measured by two separate brand calibrated callipers, moderate pressure on the jaws, .1mm single passes through, not a spot of resistance, .1mm 2x shims now we have moderate to heavy resistance.

Do you guys have any take aways on the spark plug gap? Keep it factory specs?

Appreciate the wealth of knowledge from everyone.
 

EFSM

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Steve spot on, had my 540 opened for cleaning, .1mm spacer shim measured by two separate brand calibrated callipers, moderate pressure on the jaws, .1mm single passes through, not a spot of resistance, .1mm 2x shims now we have moderate to heavy resistance.

Do you guys have any take aways on the spark plug gap? Keep it factory specs?

Appreciate the wealth of knowledge from everyone.
Reducing the gap should technically advance the timing slightly but I don’t know if the smaller spark would be counterproductive.
 
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