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Stump Shot

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On the carburetor, while yes it takes extra effort to remove by pushing the little tab on the bottom to release it. However, when it comes time to install, you just push it in and it stays perfectly in place for you while you place the air filter adapter and the screws go right in, first time without alignment issues to deal with.
Speaking of the air filter adapter, I have found that by activating the choke on the carburetor as well as the choke control switch, the adapter housing can slide down much easier into place without putting up much of a fuss.
 

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Some thoughts, takeaways and questions answered...
For starters the 562XP was computer CAD designed to be powerful, lightweight and nimble in the hands of its user. Which led to the cylinder being tilted rearward and allowed for a better downward flow for the exhaust for increased efficiency. The longer muffler gives more room for the flame-front to work itself out instead of going splat at the end of the can.
One thing to note for folks just getting into 5 series repairs, for the ignition coil reinstallation the gap is not like the older series of Husqvarna of .3mm, instead the 5 series utilize a .2mm air gap on the coil to flywheel. Husqvarna offers gauges for both, or if you have a Stihl .2mm gauge that will work as well.
Another thing is that once you get the knack of working on one size of the series, you can work on all, as the design is familiar throughout the entire family of saws.
Personally speaking, I find it unnecessary to remove the coil, especially after I went digital for timing, I just remove to flywheel, which has to come off anyways and use the timing apparatus to turn the engine over instead. I also leave the air injection duct installed as well as the front handle, the spring can be removed with the aid of a wrench for the attachment nut. That's a time saver I learned from having to change out springs from saws.
As far as the question to what the stand offs are for on the cylinder bolts, I can only say after repairing and working on quite a pile of well used saws that the benefit is all the wood-boogers and gunk does not settle in the top of the screws and difficult cleaning is not necessary prior to removing them with your T-handle.
The dished piston is not to be worried about unless building a GTG saw for racing, then an old-style Mark I piston can be exchanged. For a work saw this will go unnoticed and be beneficial overall to the saws health. I tighten up the squish a bit more than the Mark I to compensate some when doing the machine work.
Compared to older saws of the same displacement, the 5 series have smaller diameter pistons thus reducing the need for quad uppers. Also, the caps can be removed with a 20 torx security wrench and be ported without using a right-angle tool. Which gives the benefit of making the flow nice and neat on the approach prior to exit.
you sound just like a husky executive. do you secretly work for them?
 

EFSM

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As far as the question to what the stand offs are for on the cylinder bolts, I can only say after repairing and working on quite a pile of well used saws that the benefit is all the wood-boogers and gunk does not settle in the top of the screws and difficult cleaning is not necessary prior to removing them with your T-handle.

The spacers on the cylinder bolts are there for whatever reason
I thought they were there so they could use longer bolts, which would allow the bolts to stretch a little more and give more elasticity so that they don’t come loose as easily.
 

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I thought they were there so they could use longer bolts, which would allow the bolts to stretch a little more and give more elasticity so that they don’t come loose as easily.
Which is why I said it was a benefit, surely there was an engineering standpoint for them such as you stated.
Without actually having the accused credentials from the manufacturer itself, I can only say what I find when wrenching on them.
 

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The cylinder bolts on the 562xp are to be torqued to 8-10nm as per Husqvarna service manual … the case threads proper will give “elasticity” (and most likely strip) IF over torqued as they are softer than the bolts themselves. That’s not an opinion … it’s a fact
 

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Is that a fact? I've built a couple of saws. I've had to extract a few broken cylinder bolts. I've never had a stripped cylinder hole in a case, I'm sure others have, but not I. In my experience even though mag is softer than steel, the length of the hole creates a surface area/strength that exceeds the shear strength of the steel bolts. I think the bolt is the stretchy part.
 

Fabulous

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Is that a fact? I've built a couple of saws. I've had to extract a few broken cylinder bolts. I've never had a stripped cylinder hole in a case, I'm sure others have, but not I. In my experience even though mag is softer than steel, the length of the hole creates a surface area/strength that exceeds the shear strength of the steel bolts. I think the bolt is the stretchy part.
Class 10.8 bolts (metric equivalent of grade 8) used in chainsaw cylinder bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 150,000psi which is waaaaay stronger than the magnesium threads in the case. It’s designed that way for a reason! The length of the tapped hole is irrelevant and will not create a situation whereby the bolt will “stretch” - the threads in the case will fail before the bolt …. period … IF someone used a timesert or other similar product to repair a damaged case thread in conjunction with a “replacement” bolt then perhaps a situation you described could occur… Oem from the factory ? Highly doubtful a class 10.8 would break, unless defective from the manufacturing process … in fact I’d say it would never happen in a million years 😀
 

EFSM

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The length of the tapped hole is irrelevant
I see. Learn something new every day. Were you working for Ford when they designed the Triton engines’ spark plug threads?

I wasn’t trying to start a big fracas. If someone else has a logical reason for the spacers on the bolts tell us about it. I haven’t been able to come up with one.
 

Fabulous

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I see. Learn something new every day. Were you working for Ford when they designed the Triton engines’ spark plug threads?

I wasn’t trying to start a big fracas. If someone else has a logical reason for the spacers on the bolts tell us about it. I haven’t been able to come up with one.
Certain that the issue was the thread depth was insufficient - bean counter move
 

EFSM

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Certain that the issue was the thread depth was insufficient - bean counter move
Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you mean by the length of the tapped hole. Are you meaning thread depth or something else? I’m still baffled by your comment about the tapped depth being irrelevant.
 

edisto

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The cylinder bolts on the 562xp are to be torqued to 8-10nm as per Husqvarna service manual … the case threads proper will give “elasticity” (and most likely strip) IF over torqued as they are softer than the bolts themselves. That’s not an opinion … it’s a fact

 
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