Tree jacks

[Thumper88]

Alright guys, I’ve seen it done with bottle jacks, and I’m currently working on a low profile 40 ton to try out, but I’ve developed a serious interest in tree jacks. New I can find Borntrager and Hi Jacker. From what I can find online Silvey made jacks at one time? I’d really like to know more about them. What makes them different from a standard bottle jack with a plate built for the top? Where is the best place to find one used? I’d love to get a new one but $2k is a bit steep for something that is gonna see service 3 - 4 times a year as I’m a tree removal guy and there are very few trees I can’t either wedge or throw a cable in an pull via machinery or hand winch. But I would
love to have another tool in the tool box for those situations. So school me up, prices, brands, what to look for, where to look for them and who’s gonna sell me a set for a reasonable price lol. @CLEARCUT @jacob j.

 

[Skeans1]

Alright guys, I’ve seen it done with bottle jacks, and I’m currently working on a low profile 40 ton to try out, but I’ve developed a serious interest in tree jacks. New I can find Borntrager and Hi Jacker. From what I can find online Silvey made jacks at one time? I’d really like to know more about them. What makes them different from a standard bottle jack with a plate built for the top? Where is the best place to find one used? I’d love to get a new one but $2k is a bit steep for something that is gonna see service 3 - 4 times a year as I’m a tree removal guy and there are very few trees I can’t either wedge or throw a cable in an pull via machinery or hand winch. But I would
love to have another tool in the tool box for those situations. So school me up, prices, brands, what to look for, where to look for them and who’s gonna sell me a set for a reasonable price lol. @CLEARCUT @jacob j.

The Silvey or true falling jacks will have check valve in the release port, so if some pops they won’t come down. The hi jacker the full self contained setup that Silvey made was 45 ton capacity. Something else the falling jacks have is a wear plate between the ram and the plate as well as a gauge.


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[Thumper88]

The Silvey or true falling jacks will have check valve in the release port, so if some pops they won’t come down. The hi jacker the full self contained setup that Silvey made was 45 ton capacity. Something else the falling jacks have is a wear plate between the ram and the plate as well as a gauge.


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Gotcha. The check valve makes sense. The gauge is used to tell if the tree is commuting or setting back right? If pressure goes up the tree is sitting down against the back cut? Was the main difference in the self contained and the backpack units just multiple ram capabilities and the extra weight capacity?

 

[Skeans1]

Gotcha. The check valve makes sense. The gauge is used to tell if the tree is commuting or setting back right? If pressure goes up the tree is sitting down against the back cut? Was the main difference in the self contained and the backpack units just multiple ram capabilities and the extra weight capacity?

Correct


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[jacob j.]

External rams on hoses allow you to get away from the stump - not really necessary in tree service applications but highly necessary in certain falling situations in the woods.

Self-contained jacks are easier for the single-jacker to pack in. If you're running a backpack set and working your own strip, you may have to make two trips, which can be time consuming.

A few things about jacks:

1. - You have to scrutinize your stump to figure out where you can cut a jack seat. If you put a jack seat over a big knot, a burl, a defect, or insect damage - you could blow out your jack seat.
2. - Jacks can be tricky in the wind. If a tree gets to rocking, it can drive fluid pressure up to the point where you can't make any headway.
3. - You want to run jacks with wedges supporting - that way, if something goes wrong, you can keep the tree seated on wedges.

It takes some practice to get used to cutting the seat - but once you do it a few times, then it starts to be natural.

This is a pretty good example of cutting a full seat (That's the Silvey Hi-Jacker next to my partner):

 

[Skeans1]

Another version of a seat in a tree along a line.


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[CLEARCUT]

The lightweight aluminum construction is also very nice in a forestry setting. Power to weight doesn’t just apply to chainsaws, lol.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Here’s a few jack seats. When in doubt, don’t make a full seat. Leave some meat for wedges. But you can shove a part of the block back in and use a couple wedges if things go south.
Oh, and definitely don’t make your jack seat with an outward angle. Bad things can happen! Lol.

 

[Thumper88]

So cut the jack seat good and flat to prevent kick out, make sure you have solid wood in the seat, back it up with wedges that are kept tight. I wonder if there is a way to add a gauge on a normal bottle jack? Weight is not a concern I’m usually close to the truck. When jacking, do you cut the seat first, cut the face and then the seat, or do you face cut and get the back cut started then cut the seat before continuing the back cut? Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[Thumper88]

This is the jack I’m looking at using. I have a 1/2” 4” x 6” steel plate to weld on top as well.

 

[chiselbit]

You need to keep in mind that as the tree is lifted the angle of the backcut wood will change, while your jack will still be in a vertical position. If you look closely at tree jacks the top plate is slightly mobile, the top of the ram is dome shaped and the bottom of the plate slightly cupped with 4 springs holding it all together to allow it to stay flat with the wood as it is lifted. As far as cuts go, lots of variables. A common way to go about it is back cut first, then jack seat, get pressure on Jack, then carefully make the face cut. It’s a balancing act. Bigger trees are almost a little easier because you have more wood to work with, you can get your jack seated, and your face cut in and still have room for your bar and work your way up to the hinge as you’re jacking and wedging. Smaller trees it’s all at once and hope you get it right the first time.

 

[Michpatriot]

Well guys I've searched all over and can not find much technical info on tree jacking. I just purchased my first tree jack and wanted to see if I could get a thread started tapping the OPE forum members for any info you guys would share on the subject. Pics of seats, trees you have jacked, any technical pointers and or safety points would be great! I'm a part time hired saw for a land clearing company in Michigan and the excavator is great to have on the crew I work with, That is, when the stick fiddler is patient, I like his help. But lately I've been in a couple positions that a jack would have been a whole lot more advantageous and controlled. Getting older and less happy smacking wedges, so I bought a 28t Borntrager that is going to get lugged around a lot real soon.

 

[jmester]

I have no jacking experience. But alot of wedging experience. Looking forward to this thread.

 

[Michpatriot]

Same here, hope it gets a lot of info up..not really a skill that you can pick up info easily on the Inter-tube.

 

[jmester]

Agreed. I know there are a few members with some jack experience
@HYPERSAWS @CLEARCUT @Skeans1
@jacob j.

 

[jacob j.]

We have a pretty good thread going here in the general forestry sub-forum: https://opeforum.com/threads/tree-jacks.23768/

Maybe a mod can merge this thread with that one @Woodpecker

 

[Woodpecker]

We have a pretty good thread going here in the general forestry sub-forum: https://opeforum.com/threads/tree-jacks.23768/

Maybe a mod can merge this thread with that one @Woodpecker

Should be gooder now JJ

 

[Lightning Performance]

I can run a frame machine for cars, an Easyliner, the post systems and the portapower stuff. These trees be different. Have 18T and 35T bottle jacks to use. Was never much for using a wedge but to back up as we winch or add another pull line. Not much time in the woods like you pros have. Almost all residential work for me or clearing flat land.

The saddle block on the jacks top seems like the most important point. Leaning in just a bit on the base cut could be an advantage in some situations it seems.

Good stuffs.

 

[HYPERSAWS]

 

[HYPERSAWS]