STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[FergusonTO35]

Getting the 261 is a wise decision.
I bought 2 251s for some of our smaller rangers ,with the easy start. We've had zero problems with them and everyone loves those saws for small jobs. Honestly my feeling is that if you take care of the equipment you don't need to know how complicated it's put together.
This from someone who loves 441s.

I figured it would be a good choice. The 026/261 is one of those gold standard saws like the Husky 346, Homie SXL, and Mac 10-10. It is going to need a muffler, that thing is LOUD. Don't know if that's from a muffler mod or the baffles are just rotted away, but I need to preserve what's left of my hearing. The muffler looks totally stock on the outside so I would suspect the latter.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Getting the 261 is a wise decision.
I bought 2 251s for some of our smaller rangers ,with the easy start. We've had zero problems with them and everyone loves those saws for small jobs. Honestly my feeling is that if you take care of the equipment you don't need to know how complicated it's put together.
This from someone who loves 441s.

Also, the Echo CS-400 and Husky 440 are awesome 40 cc saws. They will surprise you how capable they actually are. The CS-400 is as close to proline as a clamshell can get, even has an adjustable oiler.

 

[johnp143]

I have the 042 and 048 ipls and a repair manual if anyone needs any information

Long story short, my 042AV has a leak in the case. My grandfather bought the saw new, handed down to my dad and then to me and my brother where we put it to work on an Alaskan saw mill. It ran great for a couple years then started have fuel issues which lead to what looked like a carb issue then impulse issue then I found the case problem.

I can literally insert a thin metal rule between the case halves in the front and feel the crank when I turn it.
In the picture I can see where the gasket end and the gap begins.


Fast forward to where I'm at today which is a full breakdown to replace the case gasket which brings me to your post regarding the repair manual and parts list. Could definitely use them since I'm going into unknown territory here.

Question one of many, how to get the clutch drive spline off the crank?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Long story short, my 042AV has a leak in the case. My grandfather bought the saw new, handed down to my dad and then to me and my brother where we put it to work on an Alaskan saw mill. It ran great for a couple years then started have fuel issues which lead to what looked like a carb issue then impulse issue then I found the case problem.

I can literally insert a thin metal rule between the case halves in the front and feel the crank when I turn it.
In the picture I can see where the gasket end and the gap begins.


Fast forward to where I'm at today which is a full breakdown to replace the case gasket which brings me to your post regarding the repair manual and parts list. Could definitely use them since I'm going into unknown territory here.

Question one of many, how to get the clutch drive spline off the crank?

Probably was just loose screws on case causing the issue was pretty common to need to check them especially older saws with slotted screws. Crank bearings and seals is going to be tough haven’t made them in a long time and no aftermarket bearings available so hopefully the bearings are good. I can email or message you some ipl’s and the shop manuals or at least the parts you need

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Probably was just loose screws on case causing the issue was pretty common to need to check them especially older saws with slotted screws. Crank bearings and seals is going to be tough haven’t made them in a long time and no aftermarket bearings available so hopefully the bearings are good. I can email or message you some ipl’s and the shop manuals or at least the parts you need

I wouldn’t use it on a mill personally just because it’s so hard to get stuff for now and would consider it more of a shelf saw to run once and awhile since it’s nice shape and was your grandfathers. I’ll look and see but I may have the case gasket.

 

[johnp143]

After discovering the case issue I checked the screws and they are all loose. They are slotted and never touched since new.
The crank seals may be ok, but would like to change them while in there.
This was a good working saw, but as pointed out, probably not the best idea to use a somewhat rare antique as a wide open sawmill.

 

[johnp143]

Makes good work of a 2 foot board though.
Plenty to not like about this picture, but puts a smile on my face seeing that pile of sawdust.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

After discovering the case issue I checked the screws and they are all loose. They are slotted and never touched since new.
The crank seals may be ok, but would like to change them while in there.
This was a good working saw, but as pointed out, probably not the best idea to use a somewhat rare antique as a wide open sawmill.

Well the bearing is almost non existent and not sure on seals, may be able to get them from motion industries ect. They have huge lists of metric double lipped seals.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Also, the Echo CS-400 and Husky 440 are awesome 40 cc saws. They will surprise you how capable they actually are. The CS-400 is as close to proline as a clamshell can get, even has an adjustable oiler.

I do love my echo top handle, but the 440s feel too flimsy for me. Plenty of retired guys love them though.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I'm not a pro by any means so the 440 works great for me. Parts are cheap and easy to find too. I think Husky could have a real winner if they found a way to bump it up to 50 cc or so.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I'm not a pro by any means so the 440 works great for me. Parts are cheap and easy to find too. I think Husky could have a real winner if they found a way to bump it up to 50 cc or so.

I’m pretty sure the 440,445 and 450 are all the same just like the 345 was a smaller bore 350. I prefer the 3 series farm ranch saws over the 4 personally.

 

[FergusonTO35]

The 435/440 is lighter and dimensionally smaller than the 445, 450, 455 etc. Compare them at TSC and you'll see the difference.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The crank seals may be ok,

You should be able to find em. The 4360 PTO side bearing will be tough to scrounge and won't be cheap if you actually run across one. If yours is marginal, (or if you can find a parts donor) you may be able to refurb it with a solvent soak / USC Mean Green / Oil combination treatment. I've done a few bearings using that process with surprising results -- including a 4360. All but one went back into service 100% better than they came out -- of running saws, no less. The flywheel side is just a 6202.

The rest of what you need will be out there somewhere if you're patient.

Great old saws. Freekin' tanks.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Makes good work of a 2 foot board though.
Plenty to not like about this picture, but puts a smile on my face seeing that pile of sawdust.

Sent you some stuff

 

[johnp143]

Thanks for the parts list!!
Definitely going to need a few items.

Managed to get the clutch off this weekend and split the case.
True to form, the 042AV is an unusual one, not that I know much about it, just don't seem to find much when looking for specifics.

The clutch is a good example. This saw has a clutch with a single spring instead of 3 like every other saw. Also doesn't have a hex on it for a wrench. Modified the tool I made to remove the flywheel, also unusual with three tapped holes, to remove the clutch.

The drive side crank seal looks decent and doesn't look like it was leaking. Probably best to leave it be until it fails.

Thinking of replacing the case screws with socket head cap screws. Torque spec should be standard for those fasteners and far easier to torque than the stock slotted ones.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Probably best to leave it be until it fails.

Best to replace both seals. Period.

You're too far in to cut any corners. Top ends for these things don't grow on trees.

 

[heimannm]

^

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Thanks for the parts list!!
Definitely going to need a few items.

Managed to get the clutch off this weekend and split the case.
True to form, the 042AV is an unusual one, not that I know much about it, just don't seem to find much when looking for specifics.

The clutch is a good example. This saw has a clutch with a single spring instead of 3 like every other saw. Also doesn't have a hex on it for a wrench. Modified the tool I made to remove the flywheel, also unusual with three tapped holes, to remove the clutch.

The drive side crank seal looks decent and doesn't look like it was leaking. Probably best to leave it be until it fails.

Thinking of replacing the case screws with socket head cap screws. Torque spec should be standard for those fasteners and far easier to torque than the stock slotted ones.

Yep that’s an older style with one continuous spring. They also had a weird disconnect style clutch on them. The brake flag would actually disconnect the engine from the clutch and chain. Saw would rev freely without turning the chain.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Yep that’s an older style with one continuous spring. They also had a weird disconnect style clutch on them. The brake flag would actually disconnect the engine from the clutch and chain. Saw would rev freely without turning the chain.

This is the old style clutch removal tool, came in 3 sizes if I remember right.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Thanks for the parts list!!
Definitely going to need a few items.

Managed to get the clutch off this weekend and split the case.
True to form, the 042AV is an unusual one, not that I know much about it, just don't seem to find much when looking for specifics.

The clutch is a good example. This saw has a clutch with a single spring instead of 3 like every other saw. Also doesn't have a hex on it for a wrench. Modified the tool I made to remove the flywheel, also unusual with three tapped holes, to remove the clutch.

The drive side crank seal looks decent and doesn't look like it was leaking. Probably best to leave it be until it fails.

Thinking of replacing the case screws with socket head cap screws. Torque spec should be standard for those fasteners and far easier to torque than the stock slotted ones.

Just buy t-27 scallop heads like Stihl uses now