DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[SOS Ridgerider]

I gave you a peek of that one thing. Possibly the only one in the world.

Most likely. That was truly special.

 

[166]

Most likely. That was truly special.

One of these GTG's I'll get it out. Don't want to get it dirty though.

 

[Wilhelm]

2102 catalogue factory slots


View attachment 186995

I got a backpack like that!

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Finished up the red one tonight. Seems to be pretty snappy.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Finished up the red one tonight. Seems to be pretty snappy.

View attachment 187043 View attachment 187044 View attachment 187045 View attachment 187046

That saw is looking smart Sondre

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

That saw is looking smart Sondre

Thanks Andrew! The teal one is the one I got from you.
That one has surprised a couple of people. It runs very well.

 

[166]

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

24” b&c or are they making versacut bars longer now?

 

[peter92]

Heres my resent Dolmar CA

 

[Simondo]

Heres my resent Dolmar CA

Very nice Peter. You haven't had the oil pump / recoil starter apart by any chance have you ?

 

[peter92]

Very nice Peter. You haven't had the oil pump / recoil starter apart by any chance have you ?

no sorry ,, you got drama,s with yours

 

[peter92]

Very nice Peter. You haven't had the oil pump / recoil starter apart by any chance have you ?

check your in box , sent the service manual and IPL

 

[Simondo]

no sorry ,, you got drama,s with yours

Could be...never been into the pump before .

 

[Simondo]

check your in box , sent the service manual and IPL

You are a star !! Have the IPL so also having a manual should help out... Flying blind is costly .

 

[peter92]

You are a star !! Have the IPL so also having a manual should help out... Flying blind is costly .

you got that right

 

[hump101]

I finally had ten minutes to look at the non-running 111 that I had bought.

The PO said the starter mechanism had failed and it needed new parts. It's the 86 model with the plastic spin-out ratchet that grabs teeth on the flywheel. The black plastic toothed unit spins out off an opaque plastic piece that the starter handle pulls on. The PO had a new black piece, but the existing one is fine, just jammed on the opaque piece due to burs on the opaque piece caused by the two pieces slipping across each other. After a bit of investigation it was clear that they had slipped because one of the screws holding the pull starter in place was missing, so the distance between pull starter and flywheel was too large, allowing the two plastic pieces to jump off each other.

The missing screw was inside the saw under the flywheel, and fell out when I turned it over, so I removed the burrs and refitted the missing screw, and the starter works fine. However, this then showed that the throttle was not functioning. I have two versions of the 111 IPL, and neither matches my machine, so if someone has the correct one for the 86, that would be really appreciated.

Anyway, the wire throttle rod doesn't slot into the trigger, but is pushed by the trigger. The throttle rod is supposed to have a plastic end that the trigger bears on, and also guides the rod through the top cover, but this plastic was missing. I made a new one from HDPE and a couple of stainless self-tappers, and took the opportunity to clean the carb while it was off. This carb had both L and H 1.25 turns out, so I left it like that. It also only has a single fuel line onto it, so how does it pump the fuel? I'd appreciate a description of this mechanism, as it isn't obvious to me just from looking.

Sorry this has got a bit wordy. To cut a long story short, I put some fuel in, choke on, fired second pull. Choke off, fired first pull, and not a hard pull, just turn it over and off it goes. I did a couple of test cuts in hawthorn, but the chain needs a tickle. However, it ticks over nicely, and pulls real hard. Lubes the chain too.

First impressions are wow! I don't think I need to fiddle with the tune at all, and the easy starting relative to the 105 is impressive - like the 153. I'll try to do some video/photo's if I can get some time this weekend.

On another note, I've bought a 36" bar, ripping chain, and a mill for the 153. Cost me more than I've spent on all the other saws put together, so my wife is less than impressed, but it should save plenty if I can clad the workshop in "free" planks.

 

[Simondo]

I finally had ten minutes to look at the non-running 111 that I had bought.

The PO said the starter mechanism had failed and it needed new parts. It's the 86 model with the plastic spin-out ratchet that grabs teeth on the flywheel. The black plastic toothed unit spins out off an opaque plastic piece that the starter handle pulls on. The PO had a new black piece, but the existing one is fine, just jammed on the opaque piece due to burs on the opaque piece caused by the two pieces slipping across each other. After a bit of investigation it was clear that they had slipped because one of the screws holding the pull starter in place was missing, so the distance between pull starter and flywheel was too large, allowing the two plastic pieces to jump off each other.

The missing screw was inside the saw under the flywheel, and fell out when I turned it over, so I removed the burrs and refitted the missing screw, and the starter works fine. However, this then showed that the throttle was not functioning. I have two versions of the 111 IPL, and neither matches my machine, so if someone has the correct one for the 86, that would be really appreciated.

Anyway, the wire throttle rod doesn't slot into the trigger, but is pushed by the trigger. The throttle rod is supposed to have a plastic end that the trigger bears on, and also guides the rod through the top cover, but this plastic was missing. I made a new one from HDPE and a couple of stainless self-tappers, and took the opportunity to clean the carb while it was off. This carb had both L and H 1.25 turns out, so I left it like that. It also only has a single fuel line onto it, so how does it pump the fuel? I'd appreciate a description of this mechanism, as it isn't obvious to me just from looking.

Sorry this has got a bit wordy. To cut a long story short, I put some fuel in, choke on, fired second pull. Choke off, fired first pull, and not a hard pull, just turn it over and off it goes. I did a couple of test cuts in hawthorn, but the chain needs a tickle. However, it ticks over nicely, and pulls real hard. Lubes the chain too.

First impressions are wow! I don't think I need to fiddle with the tune at all, and the easy starting relative to the 105 is impressive - like the 153. I'll try to do some video/photo's if I can get some time this weekend.

On another note, I've bought a 36" bar, ripping chain, and a mill for the 153. Cost me more than I've spent on all the other saws put together, so my wife is less than impressed, but it should save plenty if I can clad the workshop in "free" planks.

1986 /7 were short lived having that pull start, throttle ,brake leaver /band mechanism and some other things I forget. No IPL for that early 111 im afraid but may be able to help with some pictures from my one if needs be.

 

[RI Chevy]

Why does it look so much like a Hooskie 2 series saw???

 

[hump101]

Thanks Simon. I've just been to take some photos and mine is different to yours, and is listed as an 85, not an 86, sorry for earlier error. My carb cover doesn't have that big silver screw in it. Interestingly, the 111 is much lighter than the 105, so I don't think something like the PS32 is warranted for my use, the 111 should cover all those smaller jobs.

 

[hump101]

Whilst there, I took some shots of the other beasties, 105, 153, 219, and a UC3520A that I couldn't resist off Ebay last week. As mentioned earlier, we tend to move the wood to the stables for processing, hence the bias to mains electric saws for the smaller cuts.