POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[Cut4fun]

4000 rings SOLD

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Hey guys!
Just wanted to throw something out there for you....

I recently had the Poulan 3400, 3700, 3800, 4000, PP 375 385 395 top end gaskets reproduced.

• Cylinder base gasket
• Intake to cylinder gasket
• Carb to intake gasket

All 3 are blister packed as a set and are reproduced from new old stock OEM parts.

If anybody is needing any I'll be real fair with you on some sets. I have A LOT!

Moreover I had these gasket sets reproduced to pair up with something MAJOR (about 65cc+) we're in the process of getting made.....

 

[Dub11]

Hey guys!
Just wanted to throw something out there for you....

I recently had the Poulan 3400, 3700, 3800, 4000, PP 375 385 395 top end gaskets reproduced.

• Cylinder base gasket
• Intake to cylinder gasket
• Carb to intake gasket

All 3 are blister packed as a set and are reproduced from new old stock OEM parts.

If anybody is needing any I'll be real fair with you on some sets. I have A LOT!View attachment 193284

Moreover I had these gasket sets reproduced to pair up with something MAJOR (about 65cc+) we're in the process of getting made.....

Nice. I'd be interested. It'd be cooler with the crank seals too.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Nice. I'd be interested. It'd be cooler with the crank seals too.

Hey bud!

I agree with you about the seals, no doubt. The problem is with the order quantity on a lot of the stuff it just continues to raise the cost of everything exponentially.

I do have some original sets of seals so we could explore that on the future....

Let's talk further about the gasket sets, maybe I could drop you a PM.

Thanks!

 

[Fishnuts2]

The Green Nasty Model 53 hasn’t run any length of time since Spring. I had tried all sorts of things to get it back running to no avail. It got new rings, rod needle bearings, seals, carb and carb rebuild, points and condenser, but not a whole lot of change noted. I finally was able to buy a different reed valve block on eBay that looked like the type my 43 has and thought it might swap. I knew the old one had a reed petal that didn’t quite seat so for $12 it was a go.

After pulling the reed block I discovered more than a petal not sealing, but actually missing a petal completely!

So after the different reed block fitting perfectly, it starts on 2 pulls, idles, and runs great. Still makes enough noise to shame any of the neighbor’s ideas of motorcycles to boot!

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[Dream]

Soooo, um, did you happen to find the reed petal that broke off maybe?
Seems like a dumb question to ask, but it could be quite the troublemaler if left in there to wander about.
I bet that does sound awesome!

 

[S Sidwell]

Missing reed would make for a running problem, not quite a bad as not seating but missing, that bad. Time you you to go reed fishing.

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[S Sidwell]

Nice. I'd be interested. It'd be cooler with the crank seals too.

Those seals can be had for around $3.00 each, National seals.

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[Fishnuts2]

Missing reed would make for a running problem, not quite a bad as not seating but missing, that bad. Time you you to go reed fishing.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

I looked for it when the reed block was off. It opens up the whole backside of the crankcase and I couldn’t see the missing reed. Do you know of any way to maybe flush it out?


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[Dub11]

Those seals can be had for around $3.00 each, National seals.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

I was looking for an all inclusive slacker kit lol.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Those seals can be had for around $3.00 each, National seals.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

Would you mind sharing a part number?

Thanks!

 

[S Sidwell]

National 253747

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[Dream]

Well, I dont think its magnetic. If it was, id try running a magnet around in there to see if it comes out. Maybe take the reed plate back off and pour some mineral spirits in. Shake well, and dump out. Dont forget to follow up with a good dose of 2 cycle oil or mix to recoat everything with the oil film.
Its gotta be in there somewhere.

 

[Dream]

Got my sons S25DA back up and running. Put the broken carb spacer plate back together with Permatex 2 part epoxy. Worked well, and smelled way better than the JB weld 2 part clear epoxy I tried first. That stuff smelled like a skunk! Whew! Didnt bond worth a cuss either.

 

[S Sidwell]

Might be stainless steel, it don't rust. That pedal has to be somewhere, don't think it made it to the piston. Unless, unless the previous owner had worked on it and found it, removed the piece and put it back together. Then couldn't find a replacement and decided to sale the saw. I'd still look any way. Better safe than sorry.

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[S Sidwell]

Got my sons S25DA back up and running. Put the broken carb spacer plate back together with Permatex 2 part epoxy. Worked well, and smelled way better than the JB weld 2 part clear epoxy I tried first. That stuff smelled like a skunk! Whew! Didnt bond worth a cuss either.

Two part duck tape, one piece per side. Man's fix all. We call it, don't get made, Alabama Chrome.

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[Fishnuts2]

Checked and didn’t find the reed , so took it to a friend’s place and inflicted a lot of damage on some Maple and Ash blocks. Seems to have lots of power to pull .404 chain like it does.

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[Dream]

Very nice!
Now a question about my 3400 poulan. Wears Craftsman black and grey.
It stumbles at idle, but runs great other wise. I'm suspecting an air leak. Cylinder still looks good.
I openned the side of the muffler up somewhat, since I didnt care for the rear exit deflected forward thing too much.
My thimg about vac testing is with the oiler pump. I took it all apart today, and found no problems. Diaphragm is good and soft. No apparent leaks. It still seems like its burning a little bar oil. I used compressed air to check the check valves, and didnt feel any air bypassing. Can I vac test this thing thru the cylinder and be able to detect if its the oiler pump? I know I can pack grease around the crank seals.
Anyone had issues like this?
Also, if you have one of these, and you havent taken the oiler pump cover plate off in awhile, you definitely should. Theres a TON of crud that hides back there. Lots of open space to fill up.

 

[fossil]

The only saw I've had of that series that was burning bar oil had the case half sealant giving up between the oil tank and the crankcase. I know they did make a gasket for the saw case but I've never come across one in a saw. Poulan switched to sealant at some point or never did use that gasket.

There's supposed to be a piece of foam (boot) that the manual oiler rod runs through to help keep crud out the the oil pump area. It's usually perished and falling apart. There's another piece at the front of the oil pump to cover the atmospheric vent in the pump.
I don't think I've had one that leaked during a vacuum and pressure check thought the crankcase impulse port to the oil pump. If the gaskets behind and in the pump were shot it may leak there.

 

[S Sidwell]

I pressure test mine with a cylinder leak down tester I have. I fill my oil tank full and watch for anything at the oil tank cotter pin hole. Then inspect the seals and gaskets. Dead give away when oil bubbles out the vent hole.

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