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The Making of a Full Circle Crank in a Homeshop

awol

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I've been a bit curious about full circle cranks. They have been used
in the karting industry for years. I even bought a Mac 101 with a full
circle and it was made just the way your doing yours. I understand it
is filling the crank case more so when the piston is on the down stroke
there is actually more pressure to charge the combustion area. But is it
that much of a difference. Much more power? Or is it going to let the
engine spin to higher rpm's with less drag around the crank.


Lee
Hang around, I'm gonna try one in a MC101m/c someday.
 

Deets066

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The saw this crank go's to is a 5000+ with 44mm jug. It has been a perpetual project of mine, but has taught me more about porting than most every other saw put together. Right now it has an intake block fitted, and running on a bored out WJ from an 066. It has 185 degrees of intake, 165 of exhaust, 20 blowdown.



Remember that it will also provide a lower pressure negative signal when the port is open.
Man.....185 is a lot of intake, I kinda figured they would need more but wow!

So is there truth in what I've heard that full circle cranks are not for long bar saws?
 

drf256

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Great work AWOL.

I was wondering on this as well. I could see the heat of welding causing a lot of issues. Warpage and affects on heat treatment.

This makes sense now.

Would you mind posting how you fill with epoxy? Sounds messy.
 
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awol

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I did think about tacking the rings on first, it would make it much easier to finish up. I decided thatI will just use a thin film of epoxy, hang the crank horizontal, and get the rings fastened to the counterweights. That will make the final "stuffing" easier!
 
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