Tecomec Super Jolly for $270?

[Philbert]

Thinking I need to go just a little deeper, but I was afraid of getting into the tie straps and drivers.

If you want more 'hook', try adjusting the grinder head angle. I clean out the gullet separately from sharpening the cutter edges: back the holding pawl / dog off a hair, then 'run the gullets' at the end.

Philbert

 

[dirter]

I also ordered one today. Now the anticipation begins! Hehe

Got mine today. Man that was fast. I’ll get it all set up tomorrow while it’s raining.

 

[Altamaha]

In the 57 page thread on sharpening, some have mentioned the hydraulic clamp grinders are a little touchy when trying to be delicate or tap tap tapping the cutter with the wheel. The bigger handle fixes this. I have a lot more control and feel with the big handle I installed.

Next is to replace the big knob that locks the vise. It does not release fully when loosened because it is made of plastic. This makes accurate setting of the vise angle difficult. I will make a new one from Aluminum so that the threaded portion of the knob is metal! I hate plastic threaded knobs.

 

[Philbert]

Next is to replace the big knob that locks the vise.

I wanted to replace the round / star knobs on the bottom and back of my Oregon 511A grinder, with 'T' knobs.

The OEM ones tighten securely, but can be hard to open (I keep a small, strap type pipe wrench with my grinder to loosen them). They are not stock knobs that can easily be swapped. But it sounds like you have some machining abilities to make or modify them.

Philbert

 

[Altamaha]

I wanted to replace the round / star knobs on the bottom and back of my Oregon 511A grinder, with 'T' knobs.

The OEM ones tighten securely, but can be hard to open (I keep a small, strap type pipe wrench with my grinder to loosen them). They are not stock knobs that can easily be swapped. But it sounds like you have some machining abilities to make or modify them.

Philbert

Yea three metal lathes and two milling machines in the shop.

The problem with the clamp knob is it is all plastic, does not fully loosen when you back it off, have to juggle the clamp to get it into the correct position. I will just machine one from a block of T7075 aluminum.

 

[Skinnyminnie]

Finally ordered the Jolly grinder, on Wednesday the 13th. Got an email confirming the order but nothing after that.

Yesterday I decide to give Maverick Mower a call. Talked to a nice gentleman by the name of Trace. He said the grinder was being shipped out today (Thursday). I asked where it was being shipped from, he said Indiana.

I was kinda bummed that it wasn't being shipped out sooner and also that he said it coming from Indiana. Since I'm on the west coast and Altahama mentioned his came from Vegas, was hoping it'd be here sooner.

Anywho! Just received an email with a tracking number. It's coming from Las Vegas afterall. Scheduled to be here Tuesday the 19th.
Yahooooo!

I'm not quite sure why I was told it was coming from Indiana, though [emoji848]

 

[dirter]

Finally ordered the Jolly grinder, on Wednesday

I'm not quite sure why I was told it was coming from Indiana, though [emoji848]

Mine came from Michigan. They must get from warehouses all over the place

 

[Altamaha]

The thing that floors me is the low price and the free shipping. It is a big heavy package! Tells us that other sellers are making a mint.

Yea, it has a few things that I do not like and am changing, mainly knobs and the handle, but all grinders have some type of poor design to keep the price down. Just "Tune It Up" to your liking and you will have a nice lifetime grinder.

 

[RI Chevy]

The cut is what I am mainly concerned with. If it cut close to hand filing then I would consider.
How the finished ground chain cuts in wood is key for me.

 

[dirter]

Replaced the small black handle with a much larger one. The red handle is an accessory handle for a 1/2 inch drill, I had a couple of spares. I cut off the steel threaded stub on the handle and drilled & tapped 6mmx1.0 to match the threads on the grinder.

Makes the grinder much easier to use and gives nice control for "tapping" the cutter to prevent burning. Compare with the handle in the above photos.

This is 3/8 chain, Oregon 72. I found that a heavy plunge with the grinder will burn the cutter and leave burrs. Just a few light taps gives a nice surface with no burrs. Thinking I need to go just a little deeper, but I was afraid of getting into the tie straps and drivers.

I really liked your idea of, and logic behind, the big red handle to replace the chintzy little thread bobbin that comes with it. So I decided to engage in some classic Godd Ol' Boy Oneupsmanship and head to the stores to see what I could find. I was originally looking for an old style Hurst tee shifter handle but when I saw this my search stopped. Autozone.

 

[Altamaha]

Good Job!

 

[Jimmy in NC]

The cut is what I am mainly concerned with. If it cut close to hand filing then I would consider.
How the finished ground chain cuts in wood is key for me.

A good wheel makes a huge improvement on any grinder. I have yet to unbox my super jolly but it will wear a Cyclone wheel.

 

[dirter]

Oh and one more thing, I’ve read complaints about the hydraulic line interfering with the chain indexer, which it does. I just loosened the banjo ever so slightly and rotated the tube down. Free and clear now.

 

[Crzybowhntr]

A good wheel makes a huge improvement on any grinder. I have yet to unbox my super jolly but it will wear a Cyclone wheel.

Agree on the wheel.
I got my super jolly in and I like it a lot but wonder if my timber tuff would do as well with the wheel from the super jolly.
Either way, it doesn't matter bc the super has smoother features and is all around stouter

 

[J. Loe]

Got the Oregon stand coming for my still strapped down super jolly today cause bench space is lacking and too short for working.

Seems no one has mentioned which hydraulic oil, how much and how they added it.

Has anyone had any issues with this?
Any insight ope?

Also, yes, I got one as well.
Couldn’t resist.
Frigging CAD

 

[Altamaha]

Got the Oregon stand coming for my still strapped down super jolly today cause bench space is lacking and too short for working.

Seems no one has mentioned which hydraulic oil, how much and how they added it.

Has anyone had any issues with this?
Any insight ope?

Also, yes, I got one as well.
Couldn’t resist.
Frigging CAD

The instructions show how to do it. Need a big syringe (find them at a farm store) or a pump can oiler.

Any hydraulic fluid will work. Automatic trans fluid, tractor hydraulic fluid, or similar.

It comes with the cylinder already filled.

 

[J. Loe]

Thank man.
I Kept reading and seeing things that made me think they shipped the hydraulics bone dry?

A full report will have to follow but my 1st impression is positive.

 

[Ryan Browne]

Thank man.
I Kept reading and seeing things that made me think they shipped the hydraulics bone dry?

A full report will have to follow but my 1st impression is positive.

Pics of a finished cutter?







Asking for a friend...

 

[J. Loe]

Pics of a finished cutter?







Asking for a friend...

Heh
Not one that I’m 100% pleased with just yet.

I was mostly concentrating on cleaning a really beat to hell 10mm 044.

 

[dirter]

Got mine all set up today. Most of the chains I'll be grinding are the little Stihl 1/4" pitch. I was kind of disappointed that the guide rails were not flush at all and the movable one is die cut so it's not square across its top. The dinky little chains just wouldn't set in right and stay consistent. After I polished them to square and flush things started working nice and smooth. It may not be an issue on larger chains but on the little cutters it made a huge difference.
The big pivot pin wasn't centered in the hinge. I tapped it back into place so we'll see if it holds or gradually floats out. The little pin at the top of the master cylinder was about half way out as well. Hopefully it will stay put too.
Otherwise I really like it. Fantastic deal.