Tecomec Premium Corundum Vitrified Wheels

[KS Plainsman]

I was disappointed with the CBN wheels I tried. Got coarse results, was still able to overheat cutters, and little support from the vendor. Might have been the specific wheels I got (‘Diamond’ brand). I assume that they can be made with different size / grades of grit. Advantages were minimal grinding dust, and a constant shape.

Standard ‘vitrified’ grinding wheels (aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, ceramic, etc. grit) need occasional dressing, and can be custom shaped, but generate a lot more dust (I grind outside when I can).

The color is dye to indicate grit size, grit type, type of bond, etc.: things that determine how fast they will remove metal, how coarse or fine they will cut, how fast the wheels will wear, etc.

Most basic ‘pink’ wheels work fine for most users. Different grits, etc., can give you more options, if interested.

ArchrrPlus said more of the white wheels are on the way. I am waiting for a 1/8” and 3/16” wheel to compare against the ones I have.

Philbert

As in Diamond Wheel Inc.? Those are the CBN wheels I got, that I have yet to try.

 

[Philbert]

As in Diamond Wheel Inc.? Those are the CBN wheels I got, that I have yet to try.

A lot of guys like them. Maybe I got some ‘off’ wheels?

Posted some photos and a review on A.S. several years back. Odd thing is their sales office is about 20 miles from my house, but I couldn’t get them to let me come out and discuss my concerns. They just suggested I needed more practice grinding.

Philbert

 

[KS Plainsman]

A lot of guys like them. Maybe I got some ‘off’ wheels?

Posted some photos and a review on A.S. several years back. Odd thing is their sales office is about 20 miles from my house, but I couldn’t get them to let me come out and discuss my concerns. They just suggested I needed more practice grinding.

Philbert

Well that's not very good customer service. Good grief.

I've gota lot of stuff that needs noodled, so next weekend I'll be giving them and the white wheels a go.

 

[Philbert]

Found my original comments, with a few photos:

511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?

I watched this video and it works on my 511AX and 520-120.

www.arboristsite.com

Posts 145 -150

There are some other brands out there as well for more $$$

Philbert

 

[KS Plainsman]

Found my original comments, with a few photos:

511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?

I watched this video and it works on my 511AX and 520-120.

www.arboristsite.com

Posts 145 -150

There are some other brands out there as well for more $$$

Philbert

Price is why I went with Diamond Wheel. The other cheaper brand I looked at was WVN, or something like that. Both of them were about $60, or $70 bucks a wheelcheaper than a Tecomec CBN wheel.

And thanks for sharing your knowledge with this stuff. I'm fairly new to grinders, and appreciate your knowledge you share.

I will for sure post my results when I use both types.

 

[KS Plainsman]

I figured I'd update this with my limited experience, after only a couple chains. These white wheels are definitely harder than the green ones, by a long shot. I sharpened a 28" 3/8" chain and a 12" whatever Echo top handles are and didn't dress anything beforehand and even with dirty chains (I didn't ultrasonic clean them) I didn't get a clogged wheel. I still don't need to shape the wheel, which I usually ran a stone over the green wheels before I started and then after each side, with a 28" chain. The finish seemed to be a bit smoother, but I did notice a tiny burr on a couple cutters on the small chain. I'm sure I'm grinding at different angles, so that's probably part of it. These also seemed to run a bit cooler than the green ones, which, I'm sure the wheel not loading up, is a large part of that.

I used a different grinder, my Tecomec Jolly Pro, one grinder below the Super Jolly and honestly, I prefer the manual chain tensioner to the hydraulic auto tensioner on the Super Jolly. Just a side not of the experience. The Super Jolly sometimes "bucks" the cutter up, as I lower the wheel and the clamp does it's thing, but the manual one is much more rigid. So, even though the wheel is designed to be a better finishing wheel, than the green one, I wonder how much of that is just the rigidity of the grinder. Next go around I'll have to swap these wheels to the Super Jolly and see my results. Ultimately I wanted a grinder set up with white wheels, and one set up with CBN wheels (which I have, but have yet to try........next chain I'll do that).

Lastly, I tried for 15, or 20 minutes, with both a phone and a tablet and could not get either camera to focus on the cutters up close. By the time it'd focus, I was holding the chain dang near 2 foot away and ya couldn't see anything. I'll mess with it later and see if there's a setting that makes up close pictures work better or not. Sorry.

Ultimately, for how not real specific as I am, and basically just wanting a wheel that lasts longer, doesn't clog up and doesn't need dressed constantly, these white wheels are the ticket. For only a few bucks more than the garbage green wheels, I'll buy these moving forward. I'm very happy with them. Can't wait to compare to a CBN and see if those are worth 4 times the cost.

@Philbert

 

[KS Plainsman]

It's 2023, I thought these cameras were supposed to take care of everything for us. Got a couple pictures. It's the best I can do.

 

[bradb123]

I figured I'd update this with my limited experience, after only a couple chains. These white wheels are definitely harder than the green ones, by a long shot. I sharpened a 28" 3/8" chain and a 12" whatever Echo top handles are and didn't dress anything beforehand and even with dirty chains (I didn't ultrasonic clean them) I didn't get a clogged wheel. I still don't need to shape the wheel, which I usually ran a stone over the green wheels before I started and then after each side, with a 28" chain. The finish seemed to be a bit smoother, but I did notice a tiny burr on a couple cutters on the small chain. I'm sure I'm grinding at different angles, so that's probably part of it. These also seemed to run a bit cooler than the green ones, which, I'm sure the wheel not loading up, is a large part of that.

I used a different grinder, my Tecomec Jolly Pro, one grinder below the Super Jolly and honestly, I prefer the manual chain tensioner to the hydraulic auto tensioner on the Super Jolly. Just a side not of the experience. The Super Jolly sometimes "bucks" the cutter up, as I lower the wheel and the clamp does it's thing, but the manual one is much more rigid. So, even though the wheel is designed to be a better finishing wheel, than the green one, I wonder how much of that is just the rigidity of the grinder. Next go around I'll have to swap these wheels to the Super Jolly and see my results. Ultimately I wanted a grinder set up with white wheels, and one set up with CBN wheels (which I have, but have yet to try........next chain I'll do that).

Lastly, I tried for 15, or 20 minutes, with both a phone and a tablet and could not get either camera to focus on the cutters up close. By the time it'd focus, I was holding the chain dang near 2 foot away and ya couldn't see anything. I'll mess with it later and see if there's a setting that makes up close pictures work better or not. Sorry.

Ultimately, for how not real specific as I am, and basically just wanting a wheel that lasts longer, doesn't clog up and doesn't need dressed constantly, these white wheels are the ticket. For only a few bucks more than the garbage green wheels, I'll buy these moving forward. I'm very happy with them. Can't wait to compare to a CBN and see if those are worth 4 times the cost.

@Philbert

I have been using the white wheels since last summer. They last a long time before you have to dress them .

 

[Philbert]

Lastly, I tried for 15, or 20 minutes, with both a phone and a tablet and could not get either camera to focus on the cutters up close.

Try holding a white card or paper behind the cutter when taking photos.

My thoughts were to continue to use the standard ’pink’ wheels to shape cutters, or to restore damaged ones. And for basic sharpening.

Then to use the white wheels for ‘polishing’ the cutters. Like when some guys grind cutters but ‘finish off’ with a few file strokes.

Not sure if it would make a noticeable performance difference, or mostly an aesthetic pursuit.

Philbert

 

[KS Plainsman]

I have been using the white wheels since last summer. They last a long time before you have to dress them .

That's good to hear, because that's one thing I was after. I grind at different angles than stock chains, so I'll be curious how well it does on a first grinding of a chain. That's where those green wheels would fall flat on their face and I'd sometimes get a cutter too hot. I'm impressed with them so far.

 

[KS Plainsman]

Try holding a white card or paper behind the cutter when taking photos.

My thoughts were to continue to use the standard ’pink’ wheels to shape cutters, or to restore damaged ones. And for basic sharpening.

Then to use the white wheels for ‘polishing’ the cutters. Like when some guys grind cutters but ‘finish off’ with a few file strokes.

Not sure if it would make a noticeable performance difference, or mostly an aesthetic pursuit.

Philbert

I didn't try paper, but I tried cardboard, my table, and my plywood wall. I'll try that next time. I found a couple places where the lighting was just right and it focused long enough for a couple shots.

I'm not sure if it would make a noticeable difference or not. I don't think I'd be able to notice the difference myself.

The pinks are right below the whites on that chart you posted, aren't they? I'm color blind and I can't tell if it's pink, or grey on the chart and don't see any grey wheels for sale, so I assume it's pink.

 

[blades]

what makes hard on chainsaw wheels is the mfg do not stick to the standard industry nomenclature or at least the do not list it on the wheels. The hardness/ friability of the wheels is a letter code so a wheel listed with a H code is softer/ breaks down quicker than say a M code at rated rpms. The H would cause less burning than the M. Slowing the the rpms gets you to a softer ( less burning wheel breaks down quicker)- this only applies to vitrified or resinoid bonded wheels, diamond, cbn or cbx are bit different scale wise but slowing them down also gives different results all depends on the bonding agent or plating agent. a M wheel will hold form better than and H wheel in general. but again the bonding agent has a play in this also. Also the grade of grit makes a difference an 80 girt will cause more burning than a 60, but at the expense of the finish. Fun eh?

 

[Philbert]

Interesting stuff.

I have posted the Tecomec chart a few times: wheel wear vs. surface finish.

On a standard chain grinder I can’t change the speed (except for rim speed changing as diameter wears).

Philbert

 

[calcutta250]

Grinding wheel composition is complex and really needs time to understand it all. I’ve ran surface grinders.
I have a CBN wheel on my grinder. It’s nice to not have to worry about shaping the wheel.

If I was to get really serious into making the perfectly sharp tooth I would go to various grades of wheels during the process.

I just want to sharpen and cut wood. CBN seemed easiest to me.

 

[blades]

speed, it is possible with an SCR system but whether the motor can stand up to that is another question. Maybe the Oregon ones would, I doubt the clone units would. Gets in the realm of 2 pole vs 4 pole and the starter windings among other things. if one were to find a 100v dc motor -c face mount of compatible size a simple 1/2 wave rectifier circuit with the scr circuit would make it possible. still would be a 110v simple plug in the wall deal ( i know enough about too much to be really dangerous).

 

[Wilhelm]

Tips for taking pictures with these dumb smartphones:
- ensure good natural light, forget LED or Neon it messes with the camera
- You need a single color background as close to the cutter as possible, I found that black works best for my phone camera
- on my phone "tap the screen where the cutter is seen", my phone will zoom into that particular spot but not for long so take a shot quickly once the lense focusses on the cutter
- always take 2 or more pictures of the same thing, that way You can sort out the bad ones and hopefully have one that is good
- get a third hand to atchieve all written above
- get a comfy chair and a drink so You can sit and calm down when all the above fails, then try again

 

[KS Plainsman]

Tips for taking pictures with these dumb smartphones:
- ensure good natural light, forget LED or Neon it messes with the camera
- You need a single color background as close to the cutter as possible, I found that black works best for my phone camera
- on my phone "tap the screen where the cutter is seen", my phone will zoom into that particular spot but not for long so take a shot quickly once the lense focusses on the cutter
- always take 2 or more pictures of the same thing, that way You can sort out the bad ones and hopefully have one that is good
- get a third hand to atchieve all written above
- get a comfy chair and a drink so You can sit and calm down when all the above fails, then try again

That was pretty funny! I felt this post. My tablet has the "touch the screen" feature, but I couldn't get it to do it's thing, BUT I was using LED lighting.

Thanks for the tips Wilhelm.

 

[Wilhelm]

That was pretty funny! I felt this post. My tablet has the "touch the screen" feature, but I couldn't get it to do it's thing, BUT I was using LED lighting.

Thanks for the tips Wilhelm.

 

[blades]

great Wilhelm, course my phone has an abhorance for my fingers, they simple do not register .

for those that use the plated wheels - every few chains wash them with a cleaner degresser or Dawn, scrub them softly with a BRASS brissel brush and rinse. no not use a steel brush. also flip around every few chains. removed material loads between the cbn particles ( just like a file loads up) changing the direction helps break up the loading.

 

[calcutta250]

They really do want a person to pay for the top dollar phone to have a nice camera. It’s a scam.